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Mustache - 5.5 A3

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad) Aid
R
1
Iron and Clean. Anchor from 1 bolt and a tree.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

An imposing seam up a slightly overhanging wall to a widening crack. It has been done hammerless. First 20ft are A3 then it eases considerably to A1 On the sheer face of the right corner of Nailbox Crack. Moves up and rightwards until crossing the arete and heading for the summit.

Descent Options:

Walk off as per Discovery Wall.

Submitted by: cobbledik on 2010-12-24
Views: 740
Route ID: 107531

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty A3
  Safety Rating R
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cobbledik on 2010-12-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good practice for rotten aid

The first section of A3 is a weeee bit crumbly. Cracks tend to shift when you're nailing higher up, kinda like an expanding flake if by "expanding flake" you mean a "crumbling wall."

Took a nice 8' fall onto my back and sent my partner flying off the ledge it starts on. Not the best landing to say the least. Went back up and ended up popping a rurp that was equalized with a pecker just as I got to the first set of ledges. Needless to say I had had enough and came down off a few solid cam placements. From the looks of things, I'd say that the rest is pretty chill since the crack is continuous and looked relatively solid (from a Pinnacles standard)

I'll apply the phrase I've heard about sandstone to the volcanic stuff found at the Pinnacles: Never take it for granite.

- - -

Came back later and sent the beast over three hours. Bring screamers and clean rack for everything after the first few moves (those should go clean as C3ish.)

Added: 2010-12-24