To the left of Joke Book.
This is a good route to learn how to climb on small stuff. The first third of the route is almost a walk-up on easy, low-angle conglomerate. The middle third is more slabby with round bumps in the sandstone, crimps, small imbedded feet, etc. Crux is getting to the large round hueco. From there it's a pretty easy cruise through mostly nice pockets.
The bolt just below the large round hueco is not well placed, making for a tough clip, and if you fall, you land in the conglomerate below. Thus, the PG-13 rating. I broke my foot here in exactly this way. Fortunately, it's an easy traverse from the anchors of Joke Book to the anchors of this route, and you can set anchor and toprope the route.
Lower or rap the route.
Submitted by: ilikepargo on 2010-09-08
Route ID: 106534
all went well, except I did grab that bolt below the waco, on the way by. I'd like to come back with some aggressive shoes and get it clean. fun little slab route. I didn't take the fall, but since ilikepargo did break his foot on it, I'll go with his PG13 rating
I've led this several times in the past, before I started recording ascents. Thus, I'm recording it as a redpoint now. But the truth is that I just toproped it this time. It was my first time back to the route since I broke my foot on it a year and a half back.