Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Magician : Magic Dragon
PreviousMagic Dragon - 5.8 popular
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Rock
Trad, light rack to 3"
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Description:
6-12 pitches depending on how you do it. Follow the trail from the fork where the lookout tower comes into view, about 30 minutes to the obvious corner on the near side. Get going. Yes, that slab move is only 5.8-. Rock your heel up and step lively cause you've got another ~500' of sparsely protected, easy slab above you. If you feel up to it, you may want to simulclimb the top 5 pitches. (you probably won't want to simul the last pitch, it's steep and unusually formed) Top out on the lookout porch. Great Sunday afternoon climb. Top out by 6pm and you may get cookies from Margie (Kelly, the ranger who lives there Wednesday-Sunday in the summer). Please use the new bolted rap route (2 raps with one 60) if topping out after 6pm, or on Mon/Tues. Details and pics of the rap route at: http://www.safeclimbing.org/california.html#needles
Submitted by: boltdude on 2003-06-28
Views: 495
Route ID: 16027
19 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 19 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Magic Dragon
Great fun. There is one thoughtful crux, but crusier most of the way. The position on the slab face is total fun. We climbed into the East side of the Watch tower, that is a good way to finish.
Added: 2008-08-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
long (and) runout(s)
"the snake dike of the needles"
goes surprisingly quickly. i guess fiddling with pro takes time...
goes surprisingly quickly. i guess fiddling with pro takes time...
Added: 2007-05-23
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Good Needles intro
This is a nice quick and mellow route for your first afternoon at the Needles. It's fun topping out at the lookout.
Added: 2007-04-11
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-08-14
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Top Rope ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-07-17
