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Magic Dragon - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (19)
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Rock
G
Trad, light rack to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.25/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.25/5

Description:

6-12 pitches depending on how you do it. Follow the trail from the fork where the lookout tower comes into view, about 30 minutes to the obvious corner on the near side. Get going. Yes, that slab move is only 5.8-. Rock your heel up and step lively cause you've got another ~500' of sparsely protected, easy slab above you. If you feel up to it, you may want to simulclimb the top 5 pitches. (you probably won't want to simul the last pitch, it's steep and unusually formed) Top out on the lookout porch. Great Sunday afternoon climb. Top out by 6pm and you may get cookies from Margie (Kelly, the ranger who lives there Wednesday-Sunday in the summer). Please use the new bolted rap route (2 raps with one 60) if topping out after 6pm, or on Mon/Tues. Details and pics of the rap route at: http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/needles.htm

Submitted by: boltdude on 2003-06-28
Last Modified: 2010-09-20
Views: 1448
Route ID: 16027

19 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: floridaputz on 2008-08-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Magic Dragon

Great fun. There is one thoughtful crux, but crusier most of the way. The position on the slab face is total fun. We climbed into the East side of the Watch tower, that is a good way to finish.

Added: 2008-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kai_da_klimba on 2001-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars long (and) runout(s)

"the snake dike of the needles"
goes surprisingly quickly. i guess fiddling with pro takes time...

Added: 2007-05-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2003-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good Needles intro

This is a nice quick and mellow route for your first afternoon at the Needles. It's fun topping out at the lookout.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pierredestcroix on 2006-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: eyecannon on 2006-07-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-07-17

... Read all 19 ascent notes