Start just left of a large boulder. A direct start up the slab goes at around 5.9. If you haul your #4 Camalot to the crag, you'll use it in the first 10 feet of the slabby start(6) that begins just to the left of the boulder. There are three starts - a flake on the left(5), slabby face(8) and then a wedgy slab start to the left of the boulder("6"). The normal route starts 10 feet to the left and traverses into the obvious flake. First pitch: The left of the traverse is easily protected with several options available. Two opposing nuts in the roof worked for me or I've seen people use red aliens and tri-cams. On the right side of the traverse there are two piton scars that accept green and yellow aliens as very good but not bomber placements. Just below that is an attractive area that won't accept anything. Your #3 cam will be needed in the top ten feet of the first pitch. If climbing Reggae as the second pitch don't belay at the bolts, go right 10ft and build an anchor for less drag.
Submitted by: bustinmins on 2004-10-03
Route ID: 4954