Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Boulder Area : Eldorado Canyon : The Wind Tower : Calypso
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Calypso - 5.6 popular
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Rock
medium to 3 but you can use a 4 in the first 10 feet.
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Description:
Start just left of a large boulder. A direct start up the slab goes at around 5.9. If you haul your #4 Camalot to the crag, you'll use it in the first 10 feet of the slabby start(6) that begins just to the left of the boulder. There are three starts - a flake on the left(5), slabby face(8) and then a wedgy slab start to the left of the boulder("6"). The normal route starts 10 feet to the left and traverses into the obvious flake. First pitch: The left of the traverse is easily protected with several options available. Two opposing nuts in the roof worked for me or I've seen people use red aliens and tri-cams. On the right side of the traverse there are two piton scars that accept green and yellow aliens as very good but not bomber placements. Just below that is an attractive area that won't accept anything. Your #3 cam will be needed in the top ten feet of the first pitch. If climbing Reggae as the second pitch don't belay at the bolts, go right 10ft and build an anchor for less drag.
Submitted by: bustinmins on 2004-10-03
Views: 645
Route ID: 4954
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100 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 100 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
fun up, not so fun down
I led crux pitch, Becca did the rest. P1 felt harder than a 6 (way harder than 8's in Boulder Canyon)- the edges have been worn from years of climbing, and the transition out of the roof in particularly has sketchy foot, and awkward hands - very unsettling knowing if you lose your footing, you'd swing into the side of the roof. There is also one move at the beginning of the second pitch that is probably an 8 move, but that's more protected.
The P1 crack holds pro like you wouldn't believe... the party ahead of us lost a cam, and I lost a nut. Another day like this, and it'd be all pro-ed up for future climbing.
Could not for the life of us find the rap anchors. In a pinch, you can rappel off a tree anywhere along the northwest side of the tower (towards the back of the gully), it will drop you onto various shelves that you can downclimb or walk down to meet the trail.
Someone please post pictures of where the rap anchors are!
The P1 crack holds pro like you wouldn't believe... the party ahead of us lost a cam, and I lost a nut. Another day like this, and it'd be all pro-ed up for future climbing.
Could not for the life of us find the rap anchors. In a pinch, you can rappel off a tree anywhere along the northwest side of the tower (towards the back of the gully), it will drop you onto various shelves that you can downclimb or walk down to meet the trail.
Someone please post pictures of where the rap anchors are!
Added: 2009-08-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
Really Nice Route
I climbed against the boulder to our first piece about 12 feet up instead of starting 10 feet to the left. Easy first pitch. Moved over to Reggae after the first pitch.
Added: 2009-07-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
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Just the first pitch, but it was fantastic. Start isn't nearly as hard as it looks from the ground. Mostly good gear all the way. Put directional in last corner for your second before traversing to bolts as it is a height-dependent crux.
Added: 2009-06-29
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Calypso
fun route, climbed the third pitch instead of scrambling off after two. Roof to start the third is pretty fun and then easy 5.3-5.4 climbing past that.
Added: 2009-05-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
First pitch only
Did the direct slabby start.
Added: 2009-05-09
