P1. Straight forward, stellar climbing on great rock and bomber gear. Belay your second from a ledge at a small tree. Double sling the tree and back yourself up.
P2. According to Rossiter's book, he suggests completing the climb by taking the 2d pitch of Calypso. I decided to lead up the chimney pitch on The Bomb since there was a party on Calypso (go figure). Regardless, you have several options to summit. There are 2 chimney sections on this route. The second chimney is the least protectable but the climbing is easy. Climb the chimneys straight up to a 2 ring anchor. If chimney's arent your bag, on the second chimney, you can traverse out left onto the face. The climbing looks very easy. There just isn't any pro. You can do 1 more pitch to reach the summit but it is super lose and most parties end their climb at the anchors above P2.
Rap down to a slung tree and then rap again to the base of the climb.
Submitted by: admin on 2004-02-09
Route ID: 39304
Skipping all over Wind Tower Wall just seems weird to me. I looked at the overhanging roof that should be pitch 2 of this route, but decided to stay on route and traverse left two crack systems over and finished out the route all the way to the summit. P2 is dicey for 5.6 (not the traverse). P3 is nice because you can rest in the shade afterwards. P4 is super short. P5 you can go anywhere up to the top. Walked off to the East/North rap station and walked down the gully.