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Otto's Route - 5.8 popular

Average Rating = 4.19/5 Average Rating : 4.19 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (43)
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Rock
1.5-3.0 tricams, yellow-orange aliens, 3, 3.5, and 4 camalots(or equivalent).
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.09/5
  Rock Quality 3.55/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

First ascended solo using pipes and chopped holds in 1911 to put an American flag on top on the 4th of July.
On the north side of the tower, the climbers trail ends at an easy ramp leading to a dihedral below a big ledge. All belays have fixed anchors. Three single rope raps lead to the top of pitch 1, and one double rope rap from here leads to the ground. You can leave a rope on the big ledge on top of pitch 1.

Pitch 1 - 4th class ramp to the 5.4 dihedral. Ends at fixed anchors on the big ledge.
Pitch 2 - Easy climbing to the nasty looking overhanging offwidth. This is hard 5.8 and is well protected by a number 4 camalot. Bring a 5 camalot for the moves above this if you are uncomfortable with 5.6 offwidth.
Pitch 2.5 - A 40 foot 3rd class traverse through the "Time Tunnel" leads to the start of the next pitch. No anchors, but none needed as this is like being on the ground again.
Pitch 3 - Climb past 3 fixed pins to a fixed anchor, 5.6 You can put tricams and small aliens in pockets if you want.
Pitch 4 - The business. Climb easy(5.0) but runout chopped steps to where the tower steepens. 3 fixed pins in the overhanging but juggy caprock to the summit. Wild and exposed, traditionally 5.8 but becoming harder as the footholds crumble-now considered 5.9

Pitch 1 is 140', all other are short(50-70 feet). Classic climb, very unique and an impressive tower for the grade.

Submitted by: atg200 on 2002-05-08
Views: 2586
Route ID: 498

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43 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: acherry on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars very fun

Jugs though an offwidth roof. Cool. Lead P1. Thanks to all the locals who decided to give me crap about bringing more than a few draws up this thing... NOT.

Added: 2011-12-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Really fun, but...

... what a crowd! We got there at 10 AM and we had a dozen people above us already on the rock, and two parties in front of us, waiting to start! We waited an hour to start at the base before it was our turn, and then an hour on top before it was our turn to rap. Still - very fun (albeit bizarre) route - worth the wait.

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JDSmith on 2011-05-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First desert tower

A casual first tower experience. Topped out in an hour from the base. Had a few beers at the top. A fun evening after a morning of paragliding in Mack.

Added: 2011-05-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: handsoffmt on 2000-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Climbed 10 years ago

Memories are a bit fuzzy, but I remember it was a great, moderate time

Added: 2011-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: shippling on 2009-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars utah trip

fun route behind 2 very slow parties

Added: 2009-06-11

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