Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Western Slope : Colorado National Monument : Sentinal Spire : Medicine Man
PreviousMedicine Man - 5.12c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Camalots 2 #.3, 3 #.4, 4 #.5, 7 #.75, 8 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. Stopper wire for 1/4" or keyhole h
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Description:
Awesome route. Exposed and steep! Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea. Described here as 5 pitches. Pitch 1: Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner. Pro: doubles #.4-#2. Pitch 2: Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof. Pro: 6 or 7 #.75, stopper wire or keyhole hanger for 1/4", and sling for broken, half-inserted pin. Pitch 3: (Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake. Pro: #.5, #.75, 2 - #1, & 2 - #2. Pitch 4: The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux. Pro: 8 #1s, 3 #2, 1 #.5 & 1 #.75. Pitch 5: Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof. Pro: 2 #.3, 2 #.4, 2 #.5, 2 #.75, 2 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. I can't exactly remember what I used but I remember bringing a lot and using a lot because I was flamed from the previous pitch and sketched by the loose stuff above the roof. Small stuff under roof and bigger stuff up high. Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors.
Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-11-25
Views: 1972
Route ID: 26947
5 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
w/Brian
More like 12-
Added: 2009-12-18
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
as good as it gets
Closer to 12 A. Gear 4 green, 5 red, 2-3 yellow plus doubles others. small selection nuts.
I found the last roof harder than pitch 2. single 60 meter rope rappel.
I found the last roof harder than pitch 2. single 60 meter rope rappel.
Added: 2008-05-31
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Medicine Man
500 foot pinnacle. My first desert route. Great experience. I led the 2nd and 3rd in one pitch (5.11) and Steve manned up and onsighted crux 12c pitch. Damn those thin hands- helluva time on that pitch.
Added: 2008-05-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
!
Good tight hands the whole way, a lot easier than 12c.
Added: 2007-05-13
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Nice route!
Swung leads with Megan Polk, who also onsighted.
Added: 2007-02-04
