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Medicine Man - 5.12c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Camalots 2 #.3, 3 #.4, 4 #.5, 7 #.75, 8 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. Stopper wire for 1/4" or keyhole h
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Awesome route. Exposed and steep! Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea. Described here as 5 pitches. Pitch 1: Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner. Pro: doubles #.4-#2. Pitch 2: Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof. Pro: 6 or 7 #.75, stopper wire or keyhole hanger for 1/4", and sling for broken, half-inserted pin. Pitch 3: (Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake. Pro: #.5, #.75, 2 - #1, & 2 - #2. Pitch 4: The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux. Pro: 8 #1s, 3 #2, 1 #.5 & 1 #.75. Pitch 5: Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof. Pro: 2 #.3, 2 #.4, 2 #.5, 2 #.75, 2 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. I can't exactly remember what I used but I remember bringing a lot and using a lot because I was flamed from the previous pitch and sketched by the loose stuff above the roof. Small stuff under roof and bigger stuff up high. Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors.

Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-11-25
Views: 1206
Route ID: 26947

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: villageidiot on 2009-11-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars w/Brian

More like 12-

Added: 2009-12-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2008-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars as good as it gets

Closer to 12 A. Gear 4 green, 5 red, 2-3 yellow plus doubles others. small selection nuts.

I found the last roof harder than pitch 2. single 60 meter rope rappel.

Added: 2008-05-31

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: munky on 2008-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Medicine Man

500 foot pinnacle. My first desert route. Great experience. I led the 2nd and 3rd in one pitch (5.11) and Steve manned up and onsighted crux 12c pitch. Damn those thin hands- helluva time on that pitch.

Added: 2008-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: angry on 2007-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars !

Good tight hands the whole way, a lot easier than 12c.

Added: 2007-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jsj42 on 2006-11-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice route!

Swung leads with Megan Polk, who also onsighted.

Added: 2007-02-04