Awesome route. Exposed and steep! Done in 4 or 5 pitches. Intermediate belay on pitch 2 is probably a good idea. Described here as 5 pitches. Pitch 1: Obvious start up crumbly bottom layer into nice handcrack in left-facing corner. Pro: doubles #.4-#2. Pitch 2: Continue up crack in corner and exit roof to the left to intermediate belay or continue. Tread carefully on the death block that is mysteriously lodged in roof. Pro: 6 or 7 #.75, stopper wire or keyhole hanger for 1/4", and sling for broken, half-inserted pin.
Pitch 3: (Using intermediate belay or can be combined with P2). Layback flake with bad feet. Watch for loose stuff above flake. Pro: #.5, #.75, 2 - #1, & 2 - #2.
Pitch 4: The crux pitch. Jam obvious splitter through small roof. Nice kneebar in roof for no-hands rest before pulling crux. Pro: 8 #1s, 3 #2, 1 #.5 & 1 #.75.
Pitch 5: Up corner and traverse left through roof. Continue up crack to summit. Watch for loose stuff before and immediately after roof. Pro: 2 #.3, 2 #.4, 2 #.5, 2 #.75, 2 #1, 4 #2, 3 #3, 1 #3-1/2. I can't exactly remember what I used but I remember bringing a lot and using a lot because I was flamed from the previous pitch and sketched by the loose stuff above the roof. Small stuff under roof and bigger stuff up high.
Descent: Two raps from Fast Draw anchors.
Submitted by: mikemachineco on 2002-11-25
Route ID: 26947
500 foot pinnacle. My first desert route. Great experience. I led the 2nd and 3rd in one pitch (5.11) and Steve manned up and onsighted crux 12c pitch. Damn those thin hands- helluva time on that pitch.