my first climb at pictured, and my buddy's first time ever climbing. top of chimney is indeed dirty inside the crack, but just on the very left side of the crack at the slight overhang, few holds but the ones that are there are ok. stopped near the top of the chimney where the holds were getting muddy.
I've top roped this one, and did a couple of mock trad leads on it before. Today, I led it and felt a bit foolish about halfway up as I began to contemplate the result of a fall. I was plugging in a #3 cam and noticed in the crack something that looked like a bear claw mark...gee...that must be where gear had pulled through before during a fall. Hmmm... well, at least there's a few good places for big hexes and that boosted the confidence a bit. Still, not a lead I think I'll repeat. Definitely will try it again on top rope and more mock leading, but thinking about how that soft limestone might not hold gear during a fall was gripping at times.