Routes : North America : United States : Kentucky : East : Red River Gorge (Climbing) : Bruise Brothers Wall : Sweet Jane
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Sweet Jane - 5.8
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J.J., Jane Maurer, 2004
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Bolted anchors and a rap ring on a cable loop. 1 bolt 2/3rds of the way up and mostly smaller cams. You might want something bigger like a 3 or 4 C4 for the crack just below the roof while you reach out to clip the anchor bolts.
50
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Description:
Climb up the slabby dihedral left of "Hey There Fancy Pants." Follow up to a single bolt and come to a ledge below a roof. The anchor bolts are on the face of the roof with a ring dangling out in space to serve as your target. You might want to bring a whisk broom as it was quite sandy, especially at the ledge before the anchors. Maybe this will improve in time. Like many routes in this area, circa 11/08 there was a tag glued to the wall and engraved with the route name at the start. (Note: Details such as first ascent and length from Ray Ellington Red River Gorge climbing guide!)Descent Options:
Rap off the ring in the cable loop (check this or add a sacrificial carabiner for redundancy) or use the anchor bolts in some manner. Not sure if they are rap bolts however!
Submitted by: mjwestla on 2009-03-09
Views: 136
Route ID: 97240
6 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 6 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
Nice climb
Easy until the last ten feet. At that point, you can go left or right. Go left up the thin flake and it stays easy---probably nothing more than 5.7 the whole way. Go right up the handcrack and it is more interesting---maybe 5.9, with longer moves off of handjams in the overhang.
Added: 2009-10-17
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Hardest trad lead!
Great pro with a bolt half way just in case. Good feet, fun moves. Fun crack at top, or you can slab it up off to the left and traverse back (did this a couple days later as a second), but that put me in a weirder position for the anchors.
Added: 2009-05-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
fun moderate
great beginner route
Added: 2009-04-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.8 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Good Route
Easy to protect with excellent feet
Added: 2009-04-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
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Added: 2009-03-14
