Routes : North America : United States : Kentucky : East : Red River Gorge (Climbing) : Sky Bridge Ridge : Jack the Ripper
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Jack the Ripper - 5.11c
Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Jack Dickey
Rock (Trad)
G
gear
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Description:
Located on the south side of the buttress, about 120' left of As Luck Would Have It. Rap off.Descent Options:
Anchors
Submitted by: monicaj on 2011-04-27
Views: 855
Route ID: 108536
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
(sadface)
The only hangdog ascents that I include here are those which are unusually memorable, for one reason or another. And this climb most definitely is that.
I got to the crux at the top, where face holds disappear, the crack thins down to about #3 stopper size, and was feeling pretty good. I'm not a super great stemmer, but was not sketched, and began working my way carefully up the dihedral. For one reason or another, I got a bit off balance and fell. Pulled one piece of gear, took about a 30 foot fall, and as the rope was catching me, my left foot glanced off of a little ledge. It hurt, but I did not think much of it, beyond believing it was a sprain. So I lowered off.
My wife finished the climb with a bit of aid as I sat back and belayed her. We got our gear, and began the long hop/buttslide back to the car. For the rest of that day and the next, I enjoyed the food, drink, and friends of Thanksgiving at the cabin that we had rented, keeping the foot elevated and iced.
A few days later, on arriving back to Columbus, we stopped in at the ER. I felt pretty silly being pushed in on a wheelchair. Two xrays, one CT scan, and a concerned orthopedist consult later, I found out that I had disrupted, dislocated, and broken several of the bones in my upper foot. Surgery, pins, and screws were all necessary, and I was on crutches in a cast for several months afterward.
Worst climbing injury I have ever had, and I am not sure that I will ever come back to this pitch, despite it being beautiful and fun. I should have just jumped right on "Mr. Get it on Jones," which although harder is also steeper with better gear. Oh well.
I got to the crux at the top, where face holds disappear, the crack thins down to about #3 stopper size, and was feeling pretty good. I'm not a super great stemmer, but was not sketched, and began working my way carefully up the dihedral. For one reason or another, I got a bit off balance and fell. Pulled one piece of gear, took about a 30 foot fall, and as the rope was catching me, my left foot glanced off of a little ledge. It hurt, but I did not think much of it, beyond believing it was a sprain. So I lowered off.
My wife finished the climb with a bit of aid as I sat back and belayed her. We got our gear, and began the long hop/buttslide back to the car. For the rest of that day and the next, I enjoyed the food, drink, and friends of Thanksgiving at the cabin that we had rented, keeping the foot elevated and iced.
A few days later, on arriving back to Columbus, we stopped in at the ER. I felt pretty silly being pushed in on a wheelchair. Two xrays, one CT scan, and a concerned orthopedist consult later, I found out that I had disrupted, dislocated, and broken several of the bones in my upper foot. Surgery, pins, and screws were all necessary, and I was on crutches in a cast for several months afterward.
Worst climbing injury I have ever had, and I am not sure that I will ever come back to this pitch, despite it being beautiful and fun. I should have just jumped right on "Mr. Get it on Jones," which although harder is also steeper with better gear. Oh well.
Added: 2013-01-22
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
Really amazing
One of my all time favorite trad pitches. Totally wild movement with believer commitment to the anchors. Awesome
Added: 2011-04-27
