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Southeast Chimney - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 85
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Full rack with gear for 4".
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Follow Butterknife up the crack over roof to a bomber belay stance sitting on large boulder. Traverse using protection across boulder field above first pitch of Exit 99. Follow crack farthest left of three prominent cracks. At belay next to rappel station, traverse left along the cruxy friction face to top.

Submitted by: outdoorsman123 on 2006-06-17
Last Modified: 2010-06-22
Views: 982
Route ID: 77545

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jeepnphreak on 2010-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Almost Mutt and Jeff

We started out on the butter knife and headed over to the mutt and Jeff, but I was leading and got off route and we ended up doing the south east chimney, missed the belay bolts and ended up having to build an anchor in the chimney. The friction is superb and the exposure is unnerving in places. The scariest part IMHO was the traverse at the summit to the rap station, super exposed straddling the ridge line with several hundred feet to one side and 150 to the other side; butt pucker fun for sure.

Added: 2010-07-16