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Olive Oil - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 4.19/5 Average Rating : 4.19 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (88)
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George and Joanne Urioste, John Williamson
Rock (Trad)
G
4
PG. Stoppers and gear to 4"
620
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.77/5
  Rock Quality 4.10/5
  Scenery 4.27/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

An absolutely fantastic route situated on the Rose Tower, which sits in between Pine Creek Canyon and Juniper Canyon. The climb faces south, which makes it an excellent winter route. Approach as per Crimson, but head up the prominent gully on your right before reaching Juniper. Follow the trail, 3rd classing at times for longer than you think. The start is an obvious left leaning chimney with a easy looking face on its left side. Pitch 1: Head up the chimney (5.8) or the face (5.7R) to a nice alcove. 80' Pitch 2: Launch up the beautiful crack above, following it straight up for a long while. Once it eases off, follow the dihedral on the left to a nice ledge. 200', 5.7 Pitch 3: Traverse right to a nice crack and then head up and right again when possible. Eventually, you will gain a nice ledge on the right. 5.6, 130' Pitch 4: A rope stretcher! Head up the corner above to the summit. 5.7, 200' Descent: Head up and right to a huge ledge, then work your way right again and then head west to the saddle. Drop into the wash and follow it back to the trail. Note: The descent dumps you about 20 minutes from the base in the wrong direction- its best to not have left anything at the base, this way you can return directly to your car. A 70m rope is strongly recommended for this route If using a 60m, it may be a good idea to climb past belay on Pitch 1 and set up a hanging belay. It also may be a good idea to split the last pitch into two pitches. Note: some guidebooks mention bolted belays. As of late 2007, there are no fixed belays!

Submitted by: ontherocks on 2008-01-19
Views: 2071
Route ID: 11347

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88 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jmeizis on 2013-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Route

Really fun climbing by a crack. Was soloing this after Cat in the Hat and ran into some friends on the last pitch who couldn't lead it. Ended up taking the rope up for them.

Added: 2013-10-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: theresister on 2013-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route even considering the substantial rock scrambling to get here.

We really enjoyed this route. I see why it is so popular. I led p2 and p4 and couldn't be more pleased with the route. I just wish we would have understood that the decent was in the gulley North of the starting gulley so we didn't have to do the strenuous approach twice.


Added: 2013-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Ebird on 2012-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

My partner and I got a little lost with an old guide book. We finished to the left of the last big crack system but it was fun. Not sure if the gear would hold on a fall--check your holds as some flakes are definitely loose. Saw no bolts--all trad.

Added: 2012-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: mrfcoody on 2012-03-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Olive Oil

This was my first trad and Red Rock experience all in one and what a beauty. I was second, pitch 2 & 3 were combined, runout but great holds, party ledge on the way up, and Vegas in the distance.

Added: 2012-09-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gochubug on 2012-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

With our new 70 m. rope, Ladybug and I finally ticked this off our list. We combined pitch 2 & 3 to do it in 4 pitches. I got the money pitches (2 & 4) this time. Great route, but there are some seriously run-out sections. Most, but not all, of them are in easy climbing spots. All anchors must be built with gear.

Added: 2012-04-14

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