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Black Dike - WI5

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Ice
G
Light rack with ice screws and some rock gear.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 WI4 M4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.17/5
  Rock Quality 3.20/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Classic winter ice climb up the deep recess right of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Typically done in three pitches. The crux is a mixed ice/rock traverse, followed by a steep ice groove on the second pitch (5.6 WI4).

Submitted by: ambler on 2004-04-16
Last Modified: 2010-03-04
Views: 1077
Route ID: 51238

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11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty WI4 M4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2012-02-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic route in classic setting

Been looking forward to this route for a few seasons now. Finally got on it and it did not disappoint. I led the second pitch. Went a little too high on the rock traverse, and it was hard. Insecure hooking and feet were tenuous, but made it through. Should have gone lower...it would have been easier. Either way, great day out. Ice was pretty hooked out, but the climbing was fun. 7 hours car to car.

Added: 2012-02-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 WI4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: Paul_W on 1989-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Notes on a solo ascent

This climb had me gripped on solo even though the conditions were pretty favorable. Thin traverse protected with manky pin and tied off ice screw. Upper section had thin ice but plastic and took a tool well. Was well and truly gripped before reaching upper belay.

Added: 2010-10-05

Ratings
  Difficulty WI5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2001-01-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Brrrrr great line

This corner never gets sun in the winter. Ice was hard as cement. Book has it as a 5-, but its not that steep. Mega classic. swapped leads, led easier pitches.

Added: 2010-03-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tallnik on 2007-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars led

led 1st and 3rd pitches, with G. Johnson leading Hassig's Direct.

Added: 2007-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: punxnotdead on 2007-09-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars old time favorite

done it w/ slush, done it w/ rock, done it fat.

Added: 2007-09-30

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