Classic winter ice climb up the deep recess right of the Whitney-Gilman Ridge. Typically done in three pitches. The crux is a mixed ice/rock traverse, followed by a steep ice groove on the second pitch (5.6 WI4).
Submitted by: ambler on 2004-04-16
Last Modified: 2010-03-04
Route ID: 51238
Been looking forward to this route for a few seasons now. Finally got on it and it did not disappoint. I led the second pitch. Went a little too high on the rock traverse, and it was hard. Insecure hooking and feet were tenuous, but made it through. Should have gone lower...it would have been easier. Either way, great day out. Ice was pretty hooked out, but the climbing was fun. 7 hours car to car.
This climb had me gripped on solo even though the conditions were pretty favorable. Thin traverse protected with manky pin and tied off ice screw. Upper section had thin ice but plastic and took a tool well. Was well and truly gripped before reaching upper belay.