Start the climb 50 yards south of the Standard Route at the very lowest portion of the Slabs. Belay from one of the 2 ft. diameter trees. Begin at the bottom of a 10 foot wide black streak. It seems best to work up to the right as the holds to the left seem to exist primarily in the imagination. Now go straight up and then left to a small ledge with 2 bolts for a belay (150 foot total). The only protection that can be put in is about 80 feet up which is a medium chock. The second pitch is about 170 feet long, alas, (this brings about interesting problems in the last five feet - the second might just tie on several long slings to stretch out the rope). Go straight up from the ledge to an eventually noticeable large pocket (15 feet wide and 8 feet deep or so). A bolt has been placed at 120 feet for protection or if one is using an 150 foot rope, belay from this first bolt and make this lead into two leads. There is a bolt at the pocket for the belay although if one does the lead in two sections, one can place a bomb-proof nut at the top of the pocket. From the pocket go straight up about 140 feet to a bolt belay with knobs for the stance. The bolts can be found on this route by the red sling hanging from them. The fourth pitch goes straight up again. This pitch goes over a fairly steep section, after which, look for a quite good vertical crack to belay from. The fifth pitch is now straight up 120 feet to another bolt for the belay, at which point we have just about joined the Direct Route. The next three pitches are straight up. The sixth pitch has a protection bolt on it and requires a bit of fossicking about to work past one section but one can find jolly cobblestones for each move.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93145