This is a most enjoyable climb, quite suitable for beginners although the exposure may throw them off a bit. The start of the climb is at the north (right) end of the "great bowl" and goes up the south facing dihedral which is perhaps the most prominent feature on the entire slabs. The zeroth pitch bush-whacks 40 feet or so up to the actual start of the climb. One can either belay tied into the bush or into excellent jam-nuttable cracks. The first pitch goes straight up the dihedral for about 100 feet until it starts to look hairy (the crack splits at about this point). There is now an inviting left diagonaling ledge which one is invited to take. About 20 feet out is a good belay stance with noticeable pin scars for the anchor. The lead itself can be very well protected by various sized nuts, a medium hex nut is perfect about half way up. The second lead now goes a few feet to the left and then diagonals to the right under the left side of the bowl until you reach the apex of the bowl. Nuts can be placed as well as hanging slings around bollards. The move at the top looks hard but is quite easy and can be protected by placing a sling over the horn. Swing up to the left and look for a belay stance. There are several quite good ones horizontally to the left. The third pitch now goes almost horizontally to the left and does not go over the long overhang above (unless one does a variant in that direction). Lead out a rope length and belay from under the overhang with nuts or hexes. Now either go further left and then up or go straight up from this point. The end of this fourth lead has now placed you at the bottom of Ingraham's Dihedral and one has the several options open: go up the Dihedral, go right up variant, or go diagonally left to the right facing dihedral. This last is by far the easiest being perhaps 5.1 or 5.0 while the other two are 5.6 to 5.9. Nice warm up, or gear check for other routes.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Route ID: 93146