Routes : North America : United States : New Mexico : South West New Mexico : Organ Mountains : East Slabs : Standard
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Standard - 5.7
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Rock
PG13
4
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Description:
Begin the climb at the far left of the "Great Bowl". The belay is best made 10-15 feet off the ground as the crack here provides the best anchor. To start the slabs, proceed left from the crack by stepping up and out onto the face. The best holds lead slightly left. Locate the bolt before continuing. It is advisable to find the bolt before you start and to fix its position in your mind. This will make the next few moves much more enjoyable. The bolt is about 30 feet up and to the right in the black streak. The moves to the bolt are thin and once you have reached the bolt the hardest moves of the climb are probably over. This is the only protection available on the first pitch and its use is recommended. Proceed straight up until a large flake is reached. Belay here. It is not a full rope length. The second pitch is a full rope length. Go straight up following a shallow crack until you come to some broken ledges with a few small bushes. You should be on the lower ledge if you have a 150 foot rope. This is an intersection point. One hundred and fifty feet diagonally left is a bolt on the Cobblestone-Direct routes. One hundred thirty feet diagonally to the right is the base of Ingraham's Dihedral. This route continues straight up the cracks and ledges and is variable as to the number of pitches and belays required. Basically, you will first encounter an open book-dihedral structure facing this time to the north. Once you are in this crack follow it to the top. One pitch from the top you should belay from a large prominent tree (1 ft. diameter). The last pitch can be straight up the crack (trivial) or you can make a 25-30 foot traverse to a flake system on the left (enjoyable). The top of the slabs are obvious.
Submitted by: LongReach on 2008-04-18
Views: 498
Route ID: 93141
