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Break on Through - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Traditional.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.17/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.17/5
  Fun Factor 4.83/5

Description:

Climb Sentinel Chimney until 1st dead tree (I think). Rail out right then follow a seam on pumpy horzontals up to the crux overhang. Pull this via the incipient crack and an obvious/hidden hold.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2004-04-07
Views: 1184
Route ID: 50898

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12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars classic moves to a greasy crux

Climb the crappy occasionally runout slabby face left of sentinel buttress to get to the first belay or go up the sentinel chimney and cross back left. Once you reach the good cracks and a nice flat shelf you've found the first belay.

Next, if you start at the right spot (thanks to some beta from some folks I met climbing this some time back) the traverse is quite reasonable. Juggy or deep incuts that allow for good finger lockoffs in horizontals in many spots. Gets a little harder when you start heading up the vertical section but good gear to be had. Harder still as it leans back to slightly overhanging and the holds become a tad less juggy (some good sidepulls, a bit of crack). Made the mistake of trying to use a nut at the hardest part of this section because I felt I was using too many cams early on and watched it pop out as I climbed over it because I didn't take the time to place it well enough. Once you pull through the bulgy section there is a more restful spot, just a few feet right of the Zoo View crack below it's big roof. A nice variation could be to climb this far and switch routes (5.8ish). Eases off above here with good jugs and cracks for small-mid cams until you reach the crux roof for BoT. I loaded up on gear around here so I could scope the big roof in comfort - room for solid #3, yellow and red master cams in really solid cracks. A little tricky getting up to the crux roof and feeling out the hold in the crack you can see from all the way down on the ground. Maybe it was due to humidity but that hold felt quite slippery although it's reasonably good. Just a bit disconcerting leaning back off of it with high footholds a couple feet over your gear to reach high and left for an intermediate and the main jug. At least you can see your target jug clearly when you are committing to the move. I sat for too long staring at that jug before I finally did the move. Managed to get a really dubious looking nut above the crux hold but it would have held body weight to french free the move if necessary, probably not a fall though. Flailed through the roof due to all of my wasted energy contemplating the move before committing. Rope dragged the crap out of myself above that roof and ran out of slings so I had to stop and build a hanging belay not far above the roof. Not far to the top from there but what can you do at that point?

Easy to see a route up and left to the open book crux on Air show from where I stopped for my extra belay. Having done all three routes now, I can readily see how "connect a crux" would work now - that would also be an interesting outing.

Good route but it would have been nice getting a solid piece in the roof before pulling it (to do so blocks the crucial roof hold) but I suppose that adds to the excitement of the route. Stellar rock all the way through the hard stuff.

Used a lot of small cams on this one - .3 - .75 BD size stuff.

Added: 2011-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tks on 2010-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Holy Cow

The crux looks and feels really dicey until you slap around and find the intermediate hold! I thought it was much higher value than blue chock and due or dive. Lots of sniveling on this ascent!

Added: 2010-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: csproul on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Super fun

I had led this before, but unlike last time, this time it felt casual. The 5.8 climbing to the crux is really good, and the crux is short.

Added: 2009-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: erica on 2008-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars pumpy fun!

Really tiring at the end of the day, but loads of steep fun! Roof move was hard, but the holds were big and only got bigger.

Added: 2008-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

First redpoint since shoulder surgery. Chosen a nice steep finish. Great route.

Added: 2008-06-19

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