P1: Start a bit to the right of Sundial and head up through various thin placements aiming for a scoop in a bulge. Bulge protects well with small gear. Pull into the scoop and you can plug a purple mastercam up in a seam to the left. Pull through and continue on sustained slab aiming for a double bolt anchor with cables and rap rings. 150 ft P2: The slab keeps at you with great but tenuous movement. This pitch, if you follow the line of least resistance, will wander greatly. Double ropes would be encouraged. Keep climbing up until a double bolt anchor (with quicklinks) appears. 150+ ft. P3: Climb easier terrain that gets easier still. Covered in lichen but its good fun. Once it kicks back, veer left to the Nose anchors.
This is not a route for the faint 5.9 leader. Very much deserves the "+" given in the guide. Excellent route!
Apparently it is better to start right next to sundial crack and climb directly to the scoop. We started directly below the P1 bolts, and this wondered and was R in several sections. Double TCU's are highly recommended.
Route names are sometimes spot on. This one feels like you just smoked a big bowl if its near your lead limit. It likes small aliens (black and blue) near the crux. We belayed below the crux on the left with big cams to reduce rope drag. Its hard to see the line from the ground - look for shallow, rounded, left facing corner in a bulge.