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Sensemelia Sunset - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 40
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.60/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

This is a new route located to the right of Sundial Crack.

Submitted by: nbrown on 2003-09-05
Views: 1072
Route ID: 40145

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rock_fencer on 2010-12-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best route on the Nose Proper

P1: Start a bit to the right of Sundial and head up through various thin placements aiming for a scoop in a bulge. Bulge protects well with small gear. Pull into the scoop and you can plug a purple mastercam up in a seam to the left. Pull through and continue on sustained slab aiming for a double bolt anchor with cables and rap rings. 150 ft
P2: The slab keeps at you with great but tenuous movement. This pitch, if you follow the line of least resistance, will wander greatly. Double ropes would be encouraged. Keep climbing up until a double bolt anchor (with quicklinks) appears. 150+ ft.
P3: Climb easier terrain that gets easier still. Covered in lichen but its good fun. Once it kicks back, veer left to the Nose anchors.

This is not a route for the faint 5.9 leader. Very much deserves the "+" given in the guide. Excellent route!

Added: 2010-12-10

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2010-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good movement but scary

Apparently it is better to start right next to sundial crack and climb directly to the scoop. We started directly below the P1 bolts, and this wondered and was R in several sections. Double TCU's are highly recommended.

Added: 2010-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2008-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Anymore fun and it would be against the law

Route names are sometimes spot on. This one feels like you just smoked a big bowl if its near your lead limit. It likes small aliens (black and blue) near the crux. We belayed below the crux on the left with big cams to reduce rope drag. Its hard to see the line from the ground - look for shallow, rounded, left facing corner in a bulge.

Added: 2010-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jamtoman on 2008-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Must do for the slab finatic

Pro is pretty good if wandering, bring small TCUs

Added: 2008-11-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: AllIn on 2008-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent

Lead First Pitch, followed second.

Added: 2008-08-05

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