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League of Doom - 5.11c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Rock
X
2
nuts and cams up to 3 inches, draws
120
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 4.80/5

Description:

F.A. Jon Frank, Duane Raleigh (1980) 1st pitch - 5.10R maybe X begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. when the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors. 2nd pitch - 5.11R crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past one another other bolt and then right to a hand crack. I like to put a #4 TCU in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. You're now a member. Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!

Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-07
Views: 967
Route ID: 19400

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12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: willwill on 2012-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2012-07-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: Whoever on 2006-11-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice wall!

I followed Tony Mayes on this thing with the Space Balls finish, several times! Man, Tony is real strong! Nice route!

Added: 2011-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mydogscout on 2007-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a

followed sky checotah. great route!

Added: 2009-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: CT_STUDIO on 2009-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars P. 2 is a stiff SOB

My friend and I decided to give it a valiant effort and got the ascent of League. He lead P.1 and I lead P.2. I didn't fall or really have a problem with P.1 or P.2 besides getting up to the second undercling. With light quickly running out and an ascent needed, I had to pull up and stick a Cam in the second undercling to pull myself up to it... other than that, the Pitch went beautifully. The Underclings are DEF the crux moves here.
Next time, we're gonna hit it earlier in the day and finish it off with the Spaceballs finish. I'll take my Aided / Hang Dog ascent for the one move... I still feel it was an accomplishment for me.

Added: 2009-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: needlzdos on 2007-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars date?

Seconded P1 twice. Haven't gotten P2 yet. P1 is 5.9 with a 5.10 friction / bulge move. To avoid the groundfall for the leader if he/she blows this move the "running belay" should be implemented.

Added: 2007-04-23

... Read all 12 ascent notes