Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Wichita Mountains : Lichen Wall : League of Doom
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League of Doom - 5.11c
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Rock
X
2
nuts and cams up to 3 inches, draws
120
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Description:
F.A. Jon Frank, Duane Raleigh (1980) 1st pitch - 5.10R maybe X begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. when the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors. 2nd pitch - 5.11R crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past one another other bolt and then right to a hand crack. I like to put a #4 TCU in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors. You're now a member. Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!
Submitted by: okieterry on 2004-06-07
Views: 171
Route ID: 19400
Most Recent Photo
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9 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 9 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
P. 2 is a stiff SOB
My friend and I decided to give it a valiant effort and got the ascent of League. He lead P.1 and I lead P.2. I didn't fall or really have a problem with P.1 or P.2 besides getting up to the second undercling. With light quickly running out and an ascent needed, I had to pull up and stick a Cam in the second undercling to pull myself up to it... other than that, the Pitch went beautifully. The Underclings are DEF the crux moves here.
Next time, we're gonna hit it earlier in the day and finish it off with the Spaceballs finish. I'll take my Aided / Hang Dog ascent for the one move... I still feel it was an accomplishment for me.
Next time, we're gonna hit it earlier in the day and finish it off with the Spaceballs finish. I'll take my Aided / Hang Dog ascent for the one move... I still feel it was an accomplishment for me.
Added: 2009-03-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
date?
Seconded P1 twice. Haven't gotten P2 yet. P1 is 5.9 with a 5.10 friction / bulge move. To avoid the groundfall for the leader if he/she blows this move the "running belay" should be implemented.
Added: 2007-04-23
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by:
i waited till 1990 before i got on this one with
russell dutnell. wish i hadn't waited. i've since done it probably six times..always with the spaceballs finish.
Added: 2007-01-23
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
!!!
Damn, but that's a great route. Don't know when I'll lead it, but I look forward to being that solid on such a variety of ground. I followed Sean on all three pitches (incl. SpaceBalls, o'course), and was impressed by each pitch individually and astounded by the overall: long, varied, and strenuous. Wow. I see why many say it's the best. Haven't been on the long linkup out at Quartz, but this one's something else.
Added: 2006-12-17
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2006-08-27
