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Rusty's Crack - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.10/5 Average Rating : 4.10 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (28)
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Rock
good, bring big cams for the offwidth
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.11/5
  Rock Quality 4.44/5
  Scenery 3.89/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This route probably sees more traffic than any other on the rock. a chimney leads out to an overhang. pull up and jam/sidepull the offwidth above, then walk it up to better holds above. a key foot to the right of the offwidth makes the move from the overhang much less frustrating. Pitch 2 is 5.9 and it can all be done in one 90' pitch

Submitted by: timhinck on 2001-11-06
Last Modified: 2008-04-08
Views: 955
Route ID: 6811

28 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ab_love on 2015-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Truly a classic route in all senses, this thing is AWESOME!

No Comment

Added: 2015-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: satch on 1989-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars interesting fun

another classic. Hard to believe this used to be rated 5.9 and was led on the 1st ascent with hexes.

Added: 2011-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: TKontovich on 2009-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

awesome

Added: 2009-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: climbwest on 2008-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great stretch

Had a long stretch to make it from the overhang to the offwidth. Fun crack though.

Added: 2009-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Benjisaurus on 2005-02-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ouch!

I stuffed a #4 Friend in the crack just as it goes from horizontal to vertical...and I used it SEVERAL times... It's frequent flyer territory until you figure out the heel hook/hand jam sequence to pull the lip. Great Route...highly recommended. Maybe I'll get it clean one day.

Added: 2009-01-04

... Read all 28 ascent notes