Route is 10 to 15 feet to the right of Slip Stream almost to the end of the Sunset North Climbing area. Climb up past two small ledges to a balancy face move with little pro and move arching over to a divit in the roof. Traverse right to a very small ledge below the divit for a stance. Pull the roof reaching high for a bomber jug hold and then 8 more feet to a large ledge. Climb straight up (runout) to another week point in a roof with great juggy holds to pull the roof and easy climbing to a slanted large ledge. Anchors are up by a Tree. Crux is the face to roof transition. RAted 5.9+ in Chrises 2nd edition which is an old school rating. Its a solid 5.10a.
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2005-08-01
Route ID: 68610
This one seems pretty runout when the going gets tough; there may be an alternate way to protect by going slightly right on the ledge to the big obvious jug and placing a piece above that in the back of the 10 inch wide ledge. Hard to describe but when lowering form the top you will see what I mean. Might be a good idea to do the 5.6 next to it just to get the gear beta on the rappel.
Really nice route. The face moves in the bottom third were the crux for me; balancy stuff using small pockets. But once I got to the first roof, I was on more familiar ground and didn't have any more trouble.