Skip to Content

Routes : Reviews

saxfiend's Logbook (211 ascents)

Climbing Log | Hit List (1)



Show: Sort by: Display:

Comments:  Show | Hide

> >|

Routes: North America: United States: Tennessee: Eastern: Foster Falls: First Wall

Crawdaddy Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun, easy 10

Nice climb; nothing really desperate, but never boring. As others have said, the moves getting to and clipping the second bolt were the crux for me. Glad to get the onsight.

Added: 2009-07-19

Routes: North America: United States: Tennessee: Eastern: Foster Falls: Dihedrals

***Twist and Shout Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: saxfiend on 2009-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crimpy and sequency

It'd been years since I last did this route on toprope, so leading it was all new again. The start is tricky enough to where I stickclipped the first bolt (something I try to avoid). Nice lead, the redpoint was satisfying.

Added: 2009-07-19

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Moores Wall: Amphitheater

Raise Hell Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2009-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Never Lets Up

Great route, pretty damn pumpy. I kept expecting it to ease off, but it never did til near the top. The crux for me was getting established in the big crack above the thinner starting crack. Think I set a personal record for number of placements: 17 pieces (18 if you count the one I used to protect the start and then back-cleaned). I ran out of slings and had to break out my emergency prussiks to extend some placements.

Highly recommended for a solid 5.8 leader!

Added: 2009-07-07

Routes: North America: United States: North Carolina: Central: Stone Mountain State Park: South Face

The Pulpit popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2009-03-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A Real Blast

This is my first "full-length" lead (from ground to summit) at Stone Mountain and probably my favorite to date. Led all five pitches as a party of three; using double ropes, it was easy bringing up my two partners. The climbing is heady in places, especially the start of P2, but between bolts and natural pro, it's better protected than many routes here. The Oasis is a great place to relax and enjoy your lunch while waiting for the climbers on Grand Funk to clear P4. Overall, excellent climbing, nice views and a fine way to spend a day at Stone Mountain!

Added: 2009-05-15

Routes: North America: United States: Alabama: Northern: Sandrock (Cherokee Rock Village): Holiday Block

***Walking the Dog Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-11-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice Line

As others have said, this is soft for the grade (maybe one 5.9 move pulling the overhang), but it's got some interesting moves. Great protection. Also, there are ring anchors at the top now.

Added: 2008-12-04

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Roadside Crag

Fadda Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sequency

Tough climb for a 10a. A lot of the pockets look more positive than they really are. I misread the sequence toward the top and took a fall on the onsight attempt, but finished it without further trouble. Very nice route.

Added: 2008-11-11

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Fortress Wall

Bedtime For Bonzo (5.6) popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fine multi-pitch climbing

Great route, nice crack climbing with plenty of pro. My introduction to sandbagged RRG trad leading.

Added: 2008-11-11

Routes: North America: United States: Kentucky: East: Red River Gorge (Climbing): Bruise Brothers Wall

Rat Stew popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-10-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great lead

This was my favorite lead at Bruise Brothers. It was raining and the rock was soaking up to the first bolt, but after that, it was nice and dry. Tip of the hat to my belayer for standing in the rain while I onsighted it!

Added: 2008-11-11

Routes: North America: United States: Tennessee: Eastern: Foster Falls: Jimmywood

.38 Special Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Two thumbs down

This ranks up right up there with Grey Matter for the title of worst route at Fosters. If more thought had been put into bolting it, it could be a nice lead, but the bolt placements don't match up with the sequence, which is pretty tricky and wandering in places. Combine that with not having great stances for clipping and you're looking at some real nasty pendulum potential.

Added: 2008-09-14

Routes: North America: United States: Alabama: Northern: Sandrock (Cherokee Rock Village): The Pinnacle

Comfortably Numb Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: saxfiend on 2008-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Highly Memorable Lead!

What a fantastic lead! Finally got on the sharp end as part of my Second Time Around tour (leading routes that I had trouble with on toprope in the past). The runout on the lower section is nothing to sneeze at, but the climbing isn't hard (maybe 5.6) and you can fiddle in a small cam before you get to the nice fixed piton. From there, pulling the bulge and then the roof above it are the crux moves; after that, it's just a matter of endurance getting through the steep upper section to the top. Fortunately, there's ample opportunities to rest and regroup along the way.

I'd have to say this is one of the best single pitches I've ever led. Must do!

Added: 2008-08-31

> >|