saxfiend's Logbook (211 ascents)

Nice climb; nothing really desperate, but never boring. As others have said, the moves getting to and clipping the second bolt were the crux for me. Glad to get the onsight.

It'd been years since I last did this route on toprope, so leading it was all new again. The start is tricky enough to where I stickclipped the first bolt (something I try to avoid). Nice lead, the redpoint was satisfying.

Great route, pretty damn pumpy. I kept expecting it to ease off, but it never did til near the top. The crux for me was getting established in the big crack above the thinner starting crack. Think I set a personal record for number of placements: 17 pieces (18 if you count the one I used to protect the start and then back-cleaned). I ran out of slings and had to break out my emergency prussiks to extend some placements.

Highly recommended for a solid 5.8 leader!

This is my first "full-length" lead (from ground to summit) at Stone Mountain and probably my favorite to date. Led all five pitches as a party of three; using double ropes, it was easy bringing up my two partners. The climbing is heady in places, especially the start of P2, but between bolts and natural pro, it's better protected than many routes here. The Oasis is a great place to relax and enjoy your lunch while waiting for the climbers on Grand Funk to clear P4. Overall, excellent climbing, nice views and a fine way to spend a day at Stone Mountain!

As others have said, this is soft for the grade (maybe one 5.9 move pulling the overhang), but it's got some interesting moves. Great protection. Also, there are ring anchors at the top now.

Tough climb for a 10a. A lot of the pockets look more positive than they really are. I misread the sequence toward the top and took a fall on the onsight attempt, but finished it without further trouble. Very nice route.

Great route, nice crack climbing with plenty of pro. My introduction to sandbagged RRG trad leading.

This was my favorite lead at Bruise Brothers. It was raining and the rock was soaking up to the first bolt, but after that, it was nice and dry. Tip of the hat to my belayer for standing in the rain while I onsighted it!

This ranks up right up there with Grey Matter for the title of worst route at Fosters. If more thought had been put into bolting it, it could be a nice lead, but the bolt placements don't match up with the sequence, which is pretty tricky and wandering in places. Combine that with not having great stances for clipping and you're looking at some real nasty pendulum potential.

What a fantastic lead! Finally got on the sharp end as part of my Second Time Around tour (leading routes that I had trouble with on toprope in the past). The runout on the lower section is nothing to sneeze at, but the climbing isn't hard (maybe 5.6) and you can fiddle in a small cam before you get to the nice fixed piton. From there, pulling the bulge and then the roof above it are the crux moves; after that, it's just a matter of endurance getting through the steep upper section to the top. Fortunately, there's ample opportunities to rest and regroup along the way.

I'd have to say this is one of the best single pitches I've ever led. Must do!