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Castle in the Sky - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Nate Moore, Matt Twyman, Nassim Kammah, Sarah Moore
Rock (Sport)
10 bolts to belay station, then 9 bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Reimers' only multipitch. Start Lipo, stripping draws as you go to keep it open to traffic. Traverse left on various other routes' bolts and the new bolts Matt & Nassim added, dipping down at the steep hanging gardens and staying down to pitch 1 anchors. Traverse from there left 9 bolts across never-touched wave cliff. last anchors are near clifftop on a ledge. Watch for hikers underneath your falls in several spots. Pitch 1: 5.11d. Pitch 2: 5.12b

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-07-22
Views: 877
Route ID: 111959

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: blairj on 2012-07-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Cool, pumpy

Really fun route. The first pitch has plenty of cool moves on formations that are really unique. The Belay station is kind of awkward. Second pitch is a tufa traverse that is still a little dirty in spots with a tricky technical crux near the end (watch the swing). Long and pumpy, but super fun an unique. Felt kind of heavy starting liposuction with 13 draws on my harness...

Added: 2012-07-25