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Neat - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
small TCU's up to #3 camalot, extra #2 and #3's
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This spectacular route is located pretty much where the trail meets the wall on the Optimator. It is just right of a short tower and shares a start with Hayduke Lives aka. Hayutake. It follows a huge right facing corner system for 100 ft. to a 3 bolt anchor with slings. There is a plaque. Start out with a low angled shallow hand and finger crack to a large horizontal flake, a lieback move gets you to a ledge at about 20 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot) From the ledge climb 15 ft. of stem box with tips crack on either side. (small TCU's) Above the stem box climb a tight hands corner up to a small roof for about 25 ft. (.75 to #1 camalot) Above the roof climb perfect hands in a corner for 30 ft. (mostly #2 camalots, 1 #3) Just below the anchor pull the crux roof/buldge. (#2 camalot)

Submitted by: bryson on 2005-03-29
Views: 634
Route ID: 65087

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: 858jason on 2014-04-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars None

None

Added: 2014-04-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: cracklover on 2013-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good

...

Added: 2013-04-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lou on 2009-05-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars neato route

awesome corner, long and beautiful... great memorial day weekend.... clouds, sun ,wind... just great...

Added: 2009-05-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: earlethesquirrel on 2009-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good long varied corner

Not much to remember about this climb. Typical corner that widens from fingers to hands and some fists.

Added: 2009-05-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars _

Fun ever-widening crack. Mostly gold camelots then very tight blues (don't get them stuck!). Save a gold for the upper roof.

Added: 2008-04-16

... Read all 11 ascent notes