This route is directly below the anchor by the tree on the belay ledge. It can be done in one pitch, but there is a set of anchors a little more than half-way up to do it in 2 if you'd like. Looking from the top, it's not very special. However, the best part is below the overhang!
Start at the obvious ledge below a short 15' face, or on the ledge above it and climb the face fallowing the obvious bolt line to a roof. starting up from the upper ledge onto the face is tricky, once on the face, it gets a little easier--but just a little.
Climb further to the roof (crux) where one can either climb through the roof which has good solid holds, or cheat to the right a little bit to make it a little easier.
The roof is the really fun part of the route and isn't as hard as it looks. It would be nice if the bolt protecting the roof was a little high though.
After the roof, it get's much easier on lichen-covered lumps of rock up to the top, but it gets quite run-out.
This is definitely my favorite 5.9 on the whole mountain. It starts tough, and stays at a pretty susained grade until a really cool roof, the bolts are solid (except for one).
One doubled 60m rope will not make for a safe rappel to the bottom, so bring two ropes! If you extend you anchor quite a bit and are willing to start at the upper ledge, you can do it with a 60m rope but tie a knot! There's an anchor that can be used as a
Submitted by: ibnfe2 on 2007-04-08
Route ID: 84836