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Convulsions - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 Bolts
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This route is directly below the anchor by the tree on the belay ledge. It can be done in one pitch, but there is a set of anchors a little more than half-way up to do it in 2 if you'd like. Looking from the top, it's not very special. However, the best part is below the overhang! Start at the obvious ledge below a short 15' face, or on the ledge above it and climb the face fallowing the obvious bolt line to a roof. starting up from the upper ledge onto the face is tricky, once on the face, it gets a little easier--but just a little. Climb further to the roof (crux) where one can either climb through the roof which has good solid holds, or cheat to the right a little bit to make it a little easier. The roof is the really fun part of the route and isn't as hard as it looks. It would be nice if the bolt protecting the roof was a little high though. After the roof, it get's much easier on lichen-covered lumps of rock up to the top, but it gets quite run-out. This is definitely my favorite 5.9 on the whole mountain. It starts tough, and stays at a pretty susained grade until a really cool roof, the bolts are solid (except for one).

Descent Options:

One doubled 60m rope will not make for a safe rappel to the bottom, so bring two ropes! If you extend you anchor quite a bit and are willing to start at the upper ledge, you can do it with a 60m rope but tie a knot! There's an anchor that can be used as a

Submitted by: ibnfe2 on 2007-04-08
Views: 714
Route ID: 84836

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ibnfe2 on 2007-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome 5.9!

John G. belayed me up this outstanding 5.9, then I belayed him from the top.

Bring 2 ropes for the rappel, or use the rap station about 1/3 the way down.

I like this route a lot because it starts strong on a face, continues pretty strong into an overhang, has a nice roof to surmount, and then onto easy, but runout lumps towards the top.

Added: 2007-04-08