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The Open Book - 5.6

Average Rating = 3.57/5 Average Rating : 3.57 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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4-6 QD's; Med Nuts/Hexes/Cams; Pro to 1-1/2"; a couple med slings.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

Start just under the nose and climb blocky ledges to the bottom of the left side of the nose (as viewed facing the nose). Skip trying to set pro until you get to the bottom of the open book. Protect the move up into the open book, then use various jams, smears and liebacks to work to top of the open book (the crux). Once above open book, easy 10' to dual rap-bolts. Bring a couple medium slings to avoid rope drag. Definitely a Mt. Erie mega-classic! (Holds are getting rounded as proof)

Submitted by: ibnfe2 on 2006-09-19
Views: 1182
Route ID: 66032

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9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stealthyToaster on 2011-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice day out with Logan

Beautiful view from the anchors. Belay from the top and soak in the scenery. First 20 feet are pretty run out but solid.

Added: 2011-05-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: halted21 on 2010-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars meh

The bottom is forgettable. The book section is about 2 fun moves and I guess would be a good first time lieback crack.

Added: 2010-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gochubug on 2010-02-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ascent note

After many top rope climbs, I finally got around to leading it. Thin pro for the first half, but easy climbing. The dihedral crack is short but sweet. Chain anchor at top.

Added: 2010-02-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: charlenelieu on 2002-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars by far my favorite

Easy approach from top parking area, easy top rope set up. Either rappel down or walk down to start. Clean lines, and the best view, bar none, of any route I've ever climbed anywhere in the world. Beautiful, solid, love it.

Added: 2009-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: blarson on 2008-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars ok

I found the move in the book section of the climb to be odd. Wearing proper rock shoes instead of boots may have made the last move less awkward.

Added: 2008-04-12

... Read all 9 ascent notes