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South Peak - West Face

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About South Peak - West Face:

Traditional routes up to 4 pitches. Many excellent easy and moderate leads. This is the face which is visible from the visitor center. Best accessed from the South End/Roy Gap Trail and stone stairs, passing the Block and heading right to the face, near Humphrey's Head and the Cockscomb, R to L, the first two prominent pinnacles on the South end of the South-West face. The Cockscomb terminates in the huge dihedral that defines the right edge of the Face of A Thousand Pitons. To reach the Upper South Peak, stay on the main trail- please DO NOT shortcut the switchbacks!- and follow trail to a small grove of hemlock trees, where it levels out. Head up through the talus field, contouring up left, to reach the base of Le Gourmet and the Luncheon Ledge (start of the popular 5.2 Old Ladies Route). Triple S amd Marshall's Madness are to the left, as are Pleasant Overhangs, Thais Corner, and Green Wall.
Approach:
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Sandstone
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:

Routes

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SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Back to the Front 5.9 2
Average Rating = 3.00/5 Breakneck Extension 5.6 1
Average Rating = 4.38/5 Cottonmouth 5.10a 8
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Mongoose 5.11a 2
Average Rating = 3.79/5 Old Man's Route (2) 5.3 19
Average Rating = 3.67/5 The Burn Escape 5.7 3
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Venom 5.10b 5
Average Rating = 4.62/5 West Pole Direct Finish 5.8 8
0 Average Rating = 3.14/5 Banana (2) 5.6 40
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Clarke's Climb 5.9 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Cockfight 5.10a 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Manual Dexterity 5.10c 2
0 Average Rating = 4.32/5 Marshall's Madness (1) 5.9 19
0 Average Rating = 3.50/5 So What 5.7 2
0 Average Rating = 4.20/5 Thais Direct (1) 5.7 11
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Thais Direct 5.7 2
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Z Hole 5.7 0
1 Average Rating = 3.67/5 ACKSAW & The Balless Boltchoppers 5.7 3
1 Average Rating = 4.20/5 Agony 5.10b 7
1 Average Rating = 4.83/5 Back to the Front 5.9 9
1 Average Rating = 4.33/5 Breakneck (1) 5.7 9
1 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Breakneck Direct (1) 5.10b 9
1 Average Rating = 4.75/5 Bring on the Nubiles (1) 5.9 7
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Burning Tendons 5.11d 1
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Cockscomb Overhang Direct 5.9 2
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Cockscomb Pine Tree (Chimney) 5.3 3
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Cockscomb Pine Tree Traverse 5.4 2
1 Average Rating = 4.35/5 Conn's West (2) 5.5 50
1 Average Rating = 4.08/5 Crispy Critter 5.7 29
1 Average Rating = 4.30/5 Critter Crack (2) 5.6 44
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Crusher Critter 5.9 7
1 Average Rating = 3.45/5 Debbie 5.7 18
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Easy Over 5.5 3
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Ecstasy Junior 5.4 85
1 Average Rating = 4.87/5 Gunsight to South Peak (9) 5.4 42
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Heartburn 5.4 2
1 Average Rating = 4.33/5 Humphrey's Head (1) 5.3 20
1 Average Rating = 3.75/5 Le Gourmet Direct Start (2) 5.6 39
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Le Gourmet P2 variation 5.9 2
1 Average Rating = 3.60/5 Monkey See, Monkey Do 5.9 13
1 Average Rating = 3.94/5 Neck Press 5.7 34
1 Average Rating = 3.95/5 Old Ladies' Route 5.2 41
1 Average Rating = 4.04/5 Old Man's Route (2) 5.2 44
1 Average Rating = 4.06/5 Prune 5.7 58
1 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Seneca daze 5.7 10
1 Average Rating = 4.38/5 Sidewinder 5.11a 11
1 Average Rating = 3.74/5 Thais (1) 5.6 32
1 Average Rating = 3.25/5 Thais Escape (1) 5.5 5
1 Average Rating = 4.21/5 The Burn (1) 5.8 49
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 The Sorceror 5.11a 2
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Topo Images

Le Gourmet Direct Start
Critter Crack
No route specified No route specified Banana

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Bring on the Nubiles