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jello
May 9, 2005, 6:10 AM
Post #226 of 237
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 89
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SURE!! I think we should bolt Your Crack! First one on yer left cheek, stick clip it if ya want, second bolt next to yer tail bone. :lol:
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nich_popsicle
May 25, 2005, 2:39 AM
Post #228 of 237
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Registered: Apr 26, 2005
Posts: 42
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is that real rock?? I am not doubting whoever, but it looks weird... The rock looks like one of those granite countertops, with the white pieces speckled in there... As well as the back of the crack, has like a back wall or something behind it. Where was this picture taken?
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zozo
May 25, 2005, 2:42 AM
Post #229 of 237
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Registered: Feb 3, 2004
Posts: 3431
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Yeah man those bolted gym cracks just piss me off!!! Chop Chop.
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stone_d_cologne
Aug 10, 2006, 11:47 AM
Post #231 of 237
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 338
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so, I'm quite new to the board and this thread is old and long but quite important to a lot of folks and so do I share my opinion with you.
rockclimbing, like all other sports, was from it's beginnings about challenging the rock and the individual mind of the one who scaled it.
if you look at the climbing media and yourself, it's always about pushing the limits.
in the beginning there were no bolts and the limit was sometimes just the lack of them.
today, we have bolts and things became easier (thus making it possible to reach higher difficulties).
but there we have it: it became EASIER. and were is the pushing of a limit when the limit becomes easier to achieve?
I know theres a big grey area in this topic, where it's also about safety and stuff.
but this aside, why should we not bolt cracks then?
because:
a) it LIMITS the challenges of a climb to the pure physical effort
b) the rock looks best when it's pure and clean
c) placing gear is also about LEARNING to climb. too many people consume climbing (coming from a gym maybe) as some fairly new, rad extreme sport and don't know anything about it's roots.
if you make it easier for people to come into a sport without learning their lesson, the history will fade.
example: in saxony, only a strong climbing history (as their rules are part of the park regulations!) prevents the area from being closed to climbing because it's a nature reserve. people have very detailed knowledge of their climbing area and treat the routes with a great deal of respect.
d) placing gear in a crack is a skill. with bolts on cracks, that skill gets lost because people don't really place gear when there are bolts...really, they don't.
as I put up routes myself, I follow this approach: bolts are a cost. so no bolts where gear is good. if gear is bad: bolt. no gear possible: sure, bolt.
personally, I love to climb on gear, because I have the choice where and how much I like to place.
and everyone worrying about safety should watch 'hard grit' and see how sparse gear can save your life....
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gandolf
Aug 11, 2006, 5:02 PM
Post #232 of 237
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Registered: Jun 4, 2005
Posts: 119
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I don't think the OP's question is about Trad vs. Sport. Bolting routes is OK if the rock won't take gear (the original argument to bolting 'sport' climbs). If the rock takes gear, then it shouldn't be bolted. But that's just my opinion.
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dingus
Aug 11, 2006, 6:00 PM
Post #233 of 237
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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That's a scary cam placement. Ida placed it a 6 inches higher.
No wonder you bolted it!
DMT
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angry
Aug 11, 2006, 6:09 PM
Post #234 of 237
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Plaster and plywood don't take great cams. Put a screamer on it.
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crazygirl
Aug 11, 2006, 6:19 PM
Post #235 of 237
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Registered: Aug 27, 2003
Posts: 595
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so sport climbers want their cracks bolted, and yet complain about overbolting?
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lewisiarediviva
Aug 13, 2006, 6:51 PM
Post #236 of 237
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Registered: Aug 1, 2004
Posts: 527
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In reply to: is that real rock?? I am not doubting whoever, but it looks weird... The rock looks like one of those granite countertops, with the white pieces speckled in there... |
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zeke_sf
Aug 13, 2006, 8:49 PM
Post #237 of 237
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
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all gym cracks should be bolted. fo sho.
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