|
robbovius
Dec 7, 2006, 2:00 PM
Post #18401 of 22774
(6880 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
MP has only Rose Ledge info for MA listings, and that's on the "In Process" pages. if we're gonna turn that RDB into anything resembling the kind of deal we've got listed here for MA, we need to get busy.
|
|
|
|
|
notch
Dec 9, 2006, 9:30 PM
Post #18402 of 22774
(6793 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
Went to the gym on Friday with a friend, both of us high .10 climbers. We decided that we were going to climb every 5.8 in the gym, but the catch was we had to down climb every route as well. I've been more pumped, but I've never been so physically exhausted after a gym session. We didn't even make it through half of the .8s in the place! Humbling.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 10, 2006, 5:24 AM
Post #18403 of 22774
(6780 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
nice!.. a few years ago i climbed all the 9's at RIRG one night after i coached the kids i worked with that winter.. i didn't down climb them though.. thats rough. there are lots of ways of kicking your own ass in the gym.. do routes.. then boulder.. then do hangboard.. then campus.. etc good fun
just got back from a fun xmas party for work.. it was at Margiannos in boston so we got to dress up and such
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Dec 12, 2006, 12:44 AM
Post #18404 of 22774
(6719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
How do you spot a true trad climber in the gym? They are down climbing everything!
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 12, 2006, 1:32 AM
Post #18405 of 22774
(6716 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
funny.. i though it was the looks of confusion at anything overhanging 
sport4lyfe  ARRRRRG!
|
|
|
|
|
core
Dec 12, 2006, 4:21 PM
Post #18406 of 22774
(6682 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
Overhanging trad? Sounds like Gunks to me! 
|
|
|
|
|
losbill
Dec 12, 2006, 11:43 PM
Post #18407 of 22774
(6649 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
|
Jake good one. Core beat me to it regarding the Gunks comment. Confusion at overhangs probably indicates a NH traddie.
Of course, another clue to a die-hard traddie is often the subtle or not too subtle beer belly. Although I do appreciate the fact that some excellent tradsters do not partake of the "golden nectar". Which is okay since it leaves more for the rest of us.
BTW Jake are there any problems in those fabled Lincoln Woods that an old, fat, untalented tradster could have the chance to make three moves in a row on before falling off?
On a somewhat different subject, how do you tell a sport climber at the gym? ------ They are always looking straight up and/or doing dynos on 5.8 routes.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 12, 2006, 11:56 PM
Post #18408 of 22774
(6647 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
There are easier problems at the woods that can be done even by trad folks.. I'd say it would be worth at least a trip down to get a tour around and then decide if its something you'd want to do more of.. Rob came down 2 years ago and had a good time.. tho his injuries seem to be keeping him away. There are slab problems that you'd probably enjoy and i'm not a big fan of (it would be fun to watch Jay on some of them).. i would say stuff starts at 5.9 (Jer is that accurate?)
www.lincolnwoodsbouldering.com take a look at the pictures and see what you think areas 1, 2, 3 ,4 are the major spots
dynos for 5.8.. whats the point when you can campus instead :)
and touche Cory.. there is a reason i enjoy the gunks FAR FAR more than Conway
i dunno what this weekend holds for me.. i might be around for bouldering if i dont go with kate to CT
|
|
|
|
|
lucander
Dec 13, 2006, 12:22 AM
Post #18409 of 22774
(6645 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
|
ratherbe wrote: Dreaming of T-Wall.
I'll be there in late January, it should be fun.
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Dec 13, 2006, 1:51 PM
Post #18410 of 22774
(6625 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
jakedatc wrote: Rob came down 2 years ago and had a good time.. tho his injuries seem to be keeping him away.
Yeah that was a good time.
Remember, I have a multi-acre boulder field about a 15 minute bicycle ride from my appt. problems from V-doinmysleep to V-dieinafire. No point in driving the 45 min to LW, when I have a plethora of equivalent problems nearby.
And, since nobody besides me seems to desire to frequent the milford boulders, I've got them all, all to myself, all the time.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 13, 2006, 1:53 PM
Post #18411 of 22774
(6622 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Rob, pack you camera next time and show us some of this plethera eh?
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Dec 13, 2006, 4:42 PM
Post #18412 of 22774
(6608 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
jakedatc wrote: Rob, pack you camera next time and show us some of this plethera eh?
no problem.
|
|
|
|
|
acherry
Dec 14, 2006, 8:06 PM
Post #18413 of 22774
(6558 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2004
Posts: 105
|
'Aight kids, I've got tues through the weekend off from work. Who's climbing where? Who's gonna bail on work and keep me entertained? 
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 14, 2006, 9:22 PM
Post #18414 of 22774
(6557 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
This past tues? or this coming tues.. I might be around to hit LW saturday 16th.. and might also go up to Pway sunday 17th if you'd want to do that
i have monday 12/18 off also
|
|
|
|
|
core
Dec 14, 2006, 10:57 PM
Post #18415 of 22774
(6552 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 1102
|
Alex and I are meeting up with my sister and climbing in AZ this weekend, we could use a fourth...
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 15, 2006, 3:34 AM
Post #18416 of 22774
(6533 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
... and a fifth? Pleease?
GO
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 15, 2006, 3:42 AM
Post #18417 of 22774
(6532 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
pway sunday Sunday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 54 (most likely going to Blair woods.. which i think is more fun and has more to offer in a more compact form than pway park.. ie boulders are closer together)
Lincoln RI - Saturday: Sunny, with a high near 46. thats pretty sweet too.. i havent climbed in 2 weeks so i'd be down for both days
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 15, 2006, 2:02 PM
Post #18418 of 22774
(7000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Hey Jake. That sounds awesome! Not sure if I should, though. My finger is messed up, and I don't want to take chances of making it worse. I might hit the gym a little and just not use that finger, but on real rock, I don't know if I'd have the self-discipline.
Will have to think about it.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
notch
Dec 15, 2006, 11:02 PM
Post #18420 of 22774
(6969 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
Hey y'all,
I thought this tool was super cool. Could help save a bunch of money on the never ending wish list.
|
|
|
|
|
rockandwood
Dec 18, 2006, 6:09 AM
Post #18421 of 22774
(6912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 16, 2006
Posts: 4
|
hey rock people
Back in mass for the holidays. Looking to climb Mon and/or Tues someplace close to Westboro. Anyone for college rock or some other place???
happy whatever!!!
marco
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 18, 2006, 3:47 PM
Post #18422 of 22774
(6890 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Report from the weekend: Allison and I got out bouldering with Jake and his crew. Unfortunately, it wasn't quite as sunny up at Pawtuckaway as it was supposed to be, but it was still tolerable until later in the afternoon. Allison and I got pretty well spanked by the "Warmup Boulders". I had fun thrashing in a big crack, and we both eventually got up a few problems before heading to join Lauren, his daughter, and their friends.
We found the ratings there much more friendly, and Allison flashed a V2 easily, despite being cold and tired, and I flashed a V3 and a V4. Sorry - had to spray a little, since I don't think of myself as much of a boulderer. I think that may be only like my third V4 ever, and by far the hardest one I've ever flashed.
Thanks for the invite, Jake. It's good to get out and keep a little bit of a feel for real rock as the plastic season gets in swing. I hate that transition in the spring, when I typically feel incompetent on real rock. If we keep getting warm spells like this all winter, maybe all I'll have to work to get back in the spring is my lead head!
Marco - sorry, no can do - good luck!
GO
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Dec 18, 2006, 4:31 PM
Post #18423 of 22774
(6886 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054
|
Yea gabe it was good times.. the guidebook was written when Blair was very very new so the grades did not have much consensus yet.. plus TK always has a hard time with lower numbers
For me i met up with meg, loran, Karin and her friend mark.. warmed up for a while then moved onto the Swirley boulder. Karin was determined to send Amnesia v5 and i had tried it before a few years back so i was curious how i'd do now. many burns later karin sent and then i got damn close.. so i took a short break then got back on and finished it up. then we moved down the trail a bit to the hill top boulder. worked on Forget your feet v4 (you'd think this would suit me eh?) but the eventual need for feet at the end did me in. I did make up for it by flashing Premium Quality v4 i wish i had repeated it because it was such a nice problem. kicked off a fun v2 between those problems too.
Met up with gabe... showed him some beta for the warm up problems that he was having issues with before taking them out to meet up with the rest of the group at Hero boulder. Gabe you sent Eye of the beholder v4 and Girlie Power v3. I tried both but was pretty shot at that point.
good times (really nice temps haha but in reality still a bit warm for true sloper stickiness)
|
|
|
|
|
robbovius
Dec 18, 2006, 4:38 PM
Post #18424 of 22774
(6906 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 20, 2002
Posts: 8406
|
Yes, saturday was a good day for boulders. I MTBed into the milford Quarry, and did repeated laps on the Castle Ruins...in my special hikers - Quechuas, bought a size down specifically for riding the MTB (they fit real nice in the toe-clips... and they grip rock passably well)
yeah they're big old piled up blocks, maybe 5.3 grade climbing, but it's a bit overhanging for 20+feet, some of the holds are hidden, or an awkward reach, and there's no rope...and it's 40 feet of climbing. at one point, about 2/3rds of the way up three guys walked by carrying the obligatory townie 12 pack. one asked, "Climbing with no rope? if we come back adn find you on the ground, who do we call?"
"911" sez I.
I got on the bottom of a line on The Talus Wall, but chickened out...even more overhanging, maybe 5.4, but a dirty pullup to the chest high first feet, and I was sketched by the back breaking and skull-splitting landing. I know I've climbed something there before...not what i was on saturday though...the line was 40-45 feet total?
later I bailed for the boulder field to the south of the trail, climbed the V0 crack, again in my special Quechua MTB hikers. testament to my foot technique? I dunno. I concentrated VERY HARD. but the quechuas gripped some holds I thought they initially wouldn't.
I portaged the bike waaaay back into the boulder field, discovering an area I shall refer to as "The White Supremacist Campsite" (I'm sure you can all imagine), but which had a boulder with a couple nice v4-and-up problems...even farther back I found a pair of 10-15 foot boulders , one with a fun-and challenging-looking slab problem that I THINK I could do...[positively angled, with VERY thin feet and a couple crimps. 5.10 material I'd guess, it reminded my of the .10 route on knights wall. much rougher though. unclimbed?
most of these problems were covered with that black, leafy lichen. cleaning would be in order.
the V0 crack boulder has a 15-18 foot slab problem right next to the crack, that I think will go as a .10...it's thin.
I did not bring my camera, was more motivated to travel light.
|
|
|
|
|
notch
Dec 20, 2006, 7:19 PM
Post #18425 of 22774
(6823 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 599
|
A couple of questions regarding climbing in Maine. Yes, I realize this is the MCT, but I think there's enough Maine lurkers in here to get the job done. Are there any crags worth climbing in Southern Maine, say within an hour of Portland? What about bouldering? What I've heard about the Maine Rock Gym is generally unflattering, but I'm wondering if anyone's been there. What's your impression? I'm not looking for places to climb this time of year, just in general.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
