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keegan540
Jul 6, 2007, 5:11 PM
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wow...
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medicus
Jul 6, 2007, 6:29 PM
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Ummm yeah.
I would never climb with her.
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medicus
Jul 6, 2007, 6:48 PM
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chumbawumba wrote: winglessangel wrote: chumbawumba wrote: The first time I took my girl friend climbing outside I led a short crack and I belayed from the top. As she pulled each piece of gear she tossed it to the ground for later recovery even after I explained mid pitch that she was not using proper gear cleaning technique. this a joke, right? she didn'r really do that, right? like: "oh, this little thing on the side of my harness are not just decorative?" No joke, she tossed all the gear to the ground. Even after I pointed out the handy little gear loops on the harness. I still climb on the gear so hopefully its okay (The cams are Aliens so who knows). Earlier on the same climb I wanted her to see what it would be like if I fell and thus took a very small pre-planned fall. As I came down, she went towards the rock, and immediately placed both hand out to protect her body from the rock. I wound up in the dirt at the base of the climb. 6 years later I've realised that she values her beauty as much as my life (maybe more - she is Brazilian). Thus, I immediately purchased a GriGri to avoid any future no hands belaying incidents. She now laughs about it and has since followed me up routes from Yosemite to Rio.
quoted to preserve 
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stymingersfink
Jul 6, 2007, 7:09 PM
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medicus wrote: Ummm yeah. I would never climb with her.
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stymingersfink
Jul 6, 2007, 7:13 PM
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I'll make it a little easier for you:
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wmfork
Jul 6, 2007, 7:18 PM
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Now that's... mmm... deadly.
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blakegt
Jul 6, 2007, 7:41 PM
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Instead of belaying off of his harness, I once saw a guy belaying off a tree on the ground on a sport climb. He had looped the tree with a piece of webbing and clipped a grigri to it. I might have been ok with this except the guy wasn't holding on to the rope all the time either. He kept letting go to turn around and talk to his friends. Apparently he figured the grigri would catch the fall, but if the leader would've fallen the webbing would have slid up the tree at least 20' to the first branch.
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medicus
Jul 6, 2007, 7:41 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: medicus wrote: Ummm yeah. I would never climb with her. Haven't seen too many Brazilian Beauties for yourself, have you?
Lol. Man, I would camp and hang out, but never rely on someone to catch me who values her beauty more than my life. I don't care who it is... I wouldn't do it.
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squarf
Jul 6, 2007, 7:53 PM
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While top roping at Devil's lake, there were a group of people who had hired guides form chicago on the East bluff (like every nice weekend). We were about 100 yards north of them and can hear their commands. They had the usuals, On Belay, Climbing, etc.
After we were on our second route of the day, we hear "Falling!" and we had a little laugh. Then half an hour later we hear a woman yell "Can I fall?!", I promptly yelled back "No". I think she fell anyways.
Funny people. That's that the protection is for...
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Basta916
Jul 6, 2007, 8:31 PM
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medicus wrote: Ummm yeah. I would never climb with her.
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majid_sabet
Jul 6, 2007, 8:59 PM
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blakegt wrote: Instead of belaying off of his harness, I once saw a guy belaying off a tree on the ground on a sport climb. He had looped the tree with a piece of webbing and clipped a grigri to it. I might have been ok with this except the guy wasn't holding on to the rope all the time either. He kept letting go to turn around and talk to his friends. Apparently he figured the grigri would catch the fall, but if the leader would've fallen the webbing would have slid up the tree at least 20' to the first branch.
Do you think belayer was a n00b ?
Cause I think ,he thought you were "THE Noob" by wondering about his belay setup.
edit:
Curt, Hey curt, you still got your belay foot rock picture ?
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 6, 2007, 9:14 PM)
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blakegt
Jul 6, 2007, 9:12 PM
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Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works.
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SamScott
Jul 6, 2007, 9:15 PM
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Really I usually scream.
Seriously though I usually yell for a tight rope if I now I am about to fall.
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blakegt
Jul 6, 2007, 9:16 PM
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Furthermore, I haven't really been climbing very long. About 8 months, and I would consider myself still a noob. I don't claim to know more about climbing than anyone, but during the time I've spent climbing I have endeavored to learn everything about the system that keeps me safe. If his leader would've fell he would've effectively had no mechanical advantage with which to catch a fall. The grigri would have slid up the tree with only the friction between his sling and the tree to slow it down. I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times.
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bobruef
Jul 6, 2007, 9:20 PM
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SamScott wrote: Really I usually scream. Seriously though I usually yell for a tight rope if I now I am about to fall.
You yell for a tight rope when you are about to fall?... you're on a toprope then?... but you scream on a tr fall?... or you like a little tug from below when you're on lead?...wtf?
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majid_sabet
Jul 6, 2007, 9:23 PM
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blakegt wrote: Furthermore, I haven't really been climbing very long. About 8 months, and I would consider myself still a noob. I don't claim to know more about climbing than anyone, but during the time I've spent climbing I have endeavored to learn everything about the system that keeps me safe. If his leader would've fell he would've effectively had no mechanical advantage with which to catch a fall. The grigri would have slid up the tree with only the friction between his sling and the tree to slow it down. I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times.
Do you think you should belay off your harness all the time or harness belay is the only way ?
if your answer is yes, then you should stay in n00b 101 for 2 more years.
Edit ;
which brings this back to my original statment on
In reply to: Funny how one n00b is calling another climber a n00b |
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SamScott
Jul 6, 2007, 9:25 PM
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bobruef wrote: SamScott wrote: Really I usually scream. Seriously though I usually yell for a tight rope if I now I am about to fall. You yell for a tight rope when you are about to fall?... you're on a toprope then?... but you scream on a tr fall?... or you like a little tug from below when you're on lead?...wtf?
I developed it when I used to top rope more but I kinda of never stopped doing it.
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majid_sabet
Jul 6, 2007, 9:25 PM
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blakegt wrote: Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works.
By the way
you see a guy belay off an anchor, just consider him as either a pro or someone who knows a little more about climbing that you do.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 6, 2007, 9:26 PM)
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blakegt
Jul 6, 2007, 9:26 PM
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Quoting my post from above
"I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times."
Maybe you should learn to read before you post an idiotic response, or would it help if I drew you a picture.
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majid_sabet
Jul 6, 2007, 9:28 PM
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blakegt wrote: Quoting my post from above "I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times." Maybe you should learn to read before you post an idiotic response, or would it help if I drew you a picture.
picture can help for sure
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clee03m
Jul 6, 2007, 9:28 PM
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I had only top-roped a few times when I met up with these hard core mountaineering guys who were willing to teach me. They took me to Taquitz and was explaining how some of the pros worked, when I asked why anyone would use gear to climb when you can just top rope. This guy looked at me with this incredulous look and said, wouldn't it be kind of hard to do multiple pitches on top rope. Then I replied, what's a pitch? At first, I mistook pitch for feet due to their accent. I thought I heard '6 feet climb,' and thought now that's a short climb!
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n00b. 
