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jeapord
Jul 6, 2007, 9:44 PM
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I climb a lot at a place that has easy access (read: lots of noobs). The most common thing I see them doing is anchoring to a tree while top-rope belaying someone half their damn size.
I've only had one person pull me off the ground on top-rope and he weighed well over 100 lbs. more than I.
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squarf
Jul 6, 2007, 10:01 PM
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In reply to: squarf wrote: ...After we were on our second route of the day, we hear "Falling!" and we had a little laugh... Yelling "Falling" on lead is actually quite common practice... Laugh n00b.
Oh, I forgot to mention... they were top-roping.
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the_climber
Jul 6, 2007, 10:14 PM
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marc801 wrote: climbingtrash wrote: Yeah! All-y'all pull yur headz out and lighten the fetch up!  Speaking of pulling your heads out....it's "...lighten the FUCK up." Stop this Utah bullshit of fetch, fetching, and freakin' - everyone knows you mean "fuck", so quit fuckin' around.
Funny nOOb thing: Guy from Virgin, Utah saying 'fetch' meaning 'fuck'.... mormon maybe?
Scary nOOb sighting: Saw a group of dumbasses using yellow twisted nylon rope (Canadian Tire type camping rope) and home depo biners top roaping. They had one bag ful of "spare rope" cause it was melting through after 2 or 3 lowers, and a bag of beer.... we left before we had to rescue them.
Funny nOOb sighting: Was out a couple yeas back and a groupe of noobs were gathered around the least nOOb of the group as he was passing on the new skill he learned from the illustrated how to rock climb for dumbies (seriously the book was on the ground beside his bag). Well while trying to impress his friends with his newly leasrned foot jamming technique he got his foot stuck good in the crack! As luck would have it he was only a few moves up and was able to get his other foot down. Seeing his budies try to untie his shoe to get his foot out while he was nearly doing the splits... now that was funny!
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 6, 2007, 10:15 PM)
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shu
Jul 6, 2007, 10:45 PM
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There was once I guy in Combat boots who was seen at the local crag rappelling with prusiks and "jugging" with an ATC. His technique for "jugging" was to batman up the rope a little ways and then pull up the slack with the atc.
When asked what he was doing he replied, "I'm just practicing my A-scensions and DE-Scensions. For some reason these prusiks don't work well for rappelling.
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timm
Jul 6, 2007, 11:19 PM
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I was out guiding today and saw one on the next route over from me and my clients. He was very shaky on lead and he put his finger thru the bolt hanger and then attempted to try to clip a QD into the hanger while his finger was still in it. I thought I was about to see a finger amputated. Eventually he relaxed enough to trust his feet, remove his finger from the hanger, and get the draw on the hanger. It still took him another 30 to 45 seconds to stop shaking enough to be able to clip the rope into the draw. And this was only on the first bolt of the route. Similar stuff happened on the next bolt as well.
OK, maybe it wasn't that funny but plenty damn scary.
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climbsomething
Jul 6, 2007, 11:34 PM
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blakegt wrote: I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works.
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desertdude420
Jul 7, 2007, 12:10 AM
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I'm not sure which is funnier. Making fun of noobs (cuz they are funny), or watching folks on this forum defend noobs!
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Tuwie
Jul 7, 2007, 12:14 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Furthermore, I haven't really been climbing very long. About 8 months, and I would consider myself still a noob. I don't claim to know more about climbing than anyone, but during the time I've spent climbing I have endeavored to learn everything about the system that keeps me safe. If his leader would've fell he would've effectively had no mechanical advantage with which to catch a fall. The grigri would have slid up the tree with only the friction between his sling and the tree to slow it down. I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times. Do you think you should belay off your harness all the time or harness belay is the only way ? if your answer is yes, then you should stay in n00b 101 for 2 more years. Edit ; which brings this back to my original statment on In reply to: Funny how one n00b is calling another climber a n00b
Actually I don't think that is what he said. He stated in the last sentence that there are indeed times to belay off the anchor and sometimes you should not, like this time.
What I am imagining by his description is that the sling around around which was attached to the carabiner was not extremely tight. It also sounds like there was no branches for about 20 feet above the sling to prevent it from sliding up. So if the climber fell, the sling and grigri would slide 20 feet up the tree(if the belayer wasnt holding the rope, which he said he wasnt holding it all the time) possibly giving enough slack that the climber would deck.
Come on man, you must be able to picture this enough to draw a picture, If I had all the little clip art you do I would draw one up for you to critique.
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jakedatc
Jul 7, 2007, 12:20 AM
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SamScott wrote: bobruef wrote: SamScott wrote: Really I usually scream. Seriously though I usually yell for a tight rope if I now I am about to fall. You yell for a tight rope when you are about to fall?... you're on a toprope then?... but you scream on a tr fall?... or you like a little tug from below when you're on lead?...wtf? I developed it when I used to top rope more but I kinda of never stopped doing it.
mmm love getting yanked off a route and slammed into the wall :)
majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Furthermore, I haven't really been climbing very long. About 8 months, and I would consider myself still a noob. I don't claim to know more about climbing than anyone, but during the time I've spent climbing I have endeavored to learn everything about the system that keeps me safe. If his leader would've fell he would've effectively had no mechanical advantage with which to catch a fall. The grigri would have slid up the tree with only the friction between his sling and the tree to slow it down. I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times. Do you think you should belay off your harness all the time or harness belay is the only way ? if your answer is yes, then you should stay in n00b 101 for 2 more years. Edit ; which brings this back to my original statment on In reply to: Funny how one n00b is calling another climber a n00b
so majid you saying that belaying with a gri gri on only a badly set up ground anchor and not holding the brake end is ok?
right.. got it..
Tard
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stymingersfink
Jul 7, 2007, 1:35 AM
Post #85 of 149
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majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Quoting my post from above "I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times." Maybe you should learn to read before you post an idiotic response, or would it help if I drew you a picture. picture can help for sure 
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Tuwie
Jul 7, 2007, 2:12 AM
Post #86 of 149
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majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Quoting my post from above "I understand that it is a normal at times to belay directly from an anchor but this was not one of those times." Maybe you should learn to read before you post an idiotic response, or would it help if I drew you a picture. picture can help for sure
Well its not up to your artistic abilities but here is a quick drawing to show what I think he is saying.
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microbarn
Jul 7, 2007, 2:29 AM
Post #87 of 149
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great pic. I think the only thing that you could add is the top of the tree exploding off into the air.
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reno
Jul 7, 2007, 2:51 AM
Post #88 of 149
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microbarn wrote: great pic. I think the only thing that you could add is the top of the tree exploding off into the air.
And more arrows pointing at things.
Rule #3 of MS Paint Pictures of Rock Climbing Scenes: You can never have too many arrows pointing at things.
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veganclimber
Jul 7, 2007, 6:20 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works. By the way you see a guy belay off an anchor, just consider him as either a pro or someone who knows a little more about climbing that you do.
Here a pro for you:
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kr0g3r
Jul 7, 2007, 6:17 PM
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veganclimber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works. By the way you see a guy belay off an anchor, just consider him as either a pro or someone who knows a little more about climbing that you do. Here a pro for you:
That is the most ridiculously fucking stupid person i have ever seen. Is that grigri even attached to her harness in any way?
AND i would have loved to been there when the climber fell, decking out. and watching her land on her ass aswell.
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jt512
Jul 7, 2007, 6:38 PM
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kr0g3r wrote: veganclimber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works. By the way you see a guy belay off an anchor, just consider him as either a pro or someone who knows a little more about climbing that you do. Here a pro for you: That is the most ridiculously fucking stupid person i have ever seen. Is that grigri even attached to her harness in any way?
Is there some particular reason it should be?
Jay
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veganclimber
Jul 7, 2007, 8:35 PM
Post #92 of 149
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kr0g3r wrote: veganclimber wrote: majid_sabet wrote: blakegt wrote: Actually I didn't say anything to him, but his setup wouldn't have caught a fall. I don't doubt that he probably frequented this particular sport crag. He probably can redpoint several grades above me. I've noticed alot of people at sport crags(and gyms) that can redpoint 5.12s but know very little about how their belay system works. By the way you see a guy belay off an anchor, just consider him as either a pro or someone who knows a little more about climbing that you do. Here a pro for you: That is the most ridiculously fucking stupid person i have ever seen. Is that grigri even attached to her harness in any way? AND i would have loved to been there when the climber fell, decking out. and watching her land on her ass aswell.
There is nothing wrong with how she is belaying (unless that's a non-locking carabiner, hard to tell). She seems to be paying attention to the climber and has both hands on the rope. I am just pointing out that this method is used a lot in gyms by people who don't necessarily even climb and should not be considered pro's or people who know a lot about climbing.
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tradrenn
Jul 7, 2007, 10:02 PM
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n00bs do this.
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tradrenn
Jul 7, 2007, 10:13 PM
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kr0g3r wrote: That is the most ridiculously fucking stupid person i have ever seen. Is that grigri even attached to her harness in any way?
No it isn't and it doesn't have to be. GriGri is attached to the floor, with this set up she can belay anybody that is way heavier then she is.
kr0g3r wrote: AND i would have loved to been there when the climber fell, decking out. and watching her land on her ass as well.
Not gonna happen. Few gyms in Toronto use this set up, we never drop anybody.
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coastal_climber
Jul 7, 2007, 11:24 PM
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bbjammin23 wrote: What are some the funniest things you've seen noobs doing? I'll start: Not long ago we were out and there was a couple obvious new to climbing- while the girl lead, she would pull rope and then say "CLIPPING!" the moment she put the rope in the draw. Later, they got in over their heads and asked one of our friends to get their gear down. He cleaned the route and when they tried to lower him their rope was in such a bird's nest he hung up there for 5 minutes while they scrambled to untie it. hohohoho
They make posts about useless information and try to make fun of noobs, when they are one themselves.
>Cam
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pwscottiv
Jul 8, 2007, 11:34 PM
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shimanilami wrote: ... "Can you tell us where the climbs with ropes are?" Sigh. 
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LostinMaine
Jul 9, 2007, 1:33 AM
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I was a gumby at one point in my life. I had no mentor. I saw rock climbing as I drove through the Adirondacks. I knew I would love it. Stopped into a gear shop, bought a climbing book, bought some shoes, a harness, some lockers, and a 50-foot static rope (all on the advice of a nice guy in the shop who incidentally authored the book I bought). I had enough to sling a couple trees and set up a TR. My first gumby move was to enlist a climbing partner had less of an idea of how to climb than I did. He had no harness or shoes. So, we threw a 4' sling around a tree at the bottom of the climb and clipped a belay tube onto it to belay from. It was reminiscent of a gym that keeps a gri-gri and sling bolted to the floor for their TR setups. It worked, nobody died, we had fun.
I wanted to set up a more adventurous climb across the way (had no idea that there was such a thing as a guidebook at the time, nor grades). I set up my static rope, extended it over the edge, clipped the rope, and gave it the ol' heave ho over the cliff edge. There was a ledge about 8 feet below me, about 3 feet wide. My dilemma was that it was a 40 minute walk back down to the bottom. I decided to tie a prussik on the static rope, descend hand-over-hand to the ledge (never thought to rap the static cord), then rap the climbing rope. I was young, strong, and decidedly stupid. I got my weight on the static rope, got scared when my feet were dangling, slipped down the rope and burned my hands. I was suspended by the prussik cord and scared out of my mind. The prussik had cinched itself down, so I had to unweight it by pulling myself up. Finally got it, threw it as far down as I could and let go of the rope. I landed on the ledge, which sloped far more that it looked like from above. I sat there for a few minutes shaking out the adrenaline and contemplating the next sequence of events. In my infinite wisdom, I untied the prussik, pulled up the master point 'biners, and retied the prussik onto the climbing rope. Rapped the route without any further issues.
I was then fortunate to discover that some rock was harder than others. Though a route looks "blocky" from below, the slope of the hold and the distance between "blocks" greatly changes the difficulty of the route. We each tried it a handful of times, making it at most halfway up. I then had to walk back up the 40 minutes to break the anchor down, and walk back.
After some time has passed, I have since discovered guidebooks, competent climbing partners, lead climbing, and the internet has sprung up with sites dedicated to the sport.
I wouldn't recommend the "just do it" learning style for climbing, but I learned a lot from my mistakes. Gumby climbers do odd things, and you don't realize how dangerous they are until you know what's correct.
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karmiclimber
Jul 9, 2007, 5:21 PM
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majid_sabet
Jul 9, 2007, 6:08 PM
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In reply to: They make posts about useless information and try to make fun of noobs, when they are one themselves.
Funny how one n00b is telling stories about another n00b
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