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Partner robdotcalm


Jul 9, 2007, 3:28 AM
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Re: [dingus] Close call [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
I don't and haven't used middle marks on my ropes, not ever really. It is a source of friction with my partners and I.

I recently needed to do a single rope rap down a new line. My partners were elsewhere, working a different route. When I tossed the rope ends I could not confirm the ends were on the ground, no matter the vantage.

I walked down, as it was possible. The ends were down, just.

I don't routinely tie knots in the ends of my rap ropes. In fact I would only tie knots in the end if I had to rap, I couldn't see the ends and the wind wasn't blowing much.

Rapping down the side of El Cap NO WAY I'd tie knots in the ends of the ropes, that's a recipe for a rescue imo.

Being sure. Having a backup plan in mind. Working it through mentally, ahead of time....


DMT

Tying knots in the end of the rope is situational. That’s better than saying, “I seldom do it”. Having the middle of the rope marked provides information that increases safety, so why not do it?

There was a thread here a couple of years ago (easier to describe it then to search for it) about 2 experienced climbers (in Renton WA I think). They had a 60 m rope and had climbed on a 20 m cliff, a route they had climbed before and rappelled from before. There was a high wind and so they did not knot the ends of their rope (reasonable). They could see the ends of the rope on the ground with rope to spare. They rested a little, and the first climber started to rappel. About half way down, one end of the rope went through his belay device and he died.

Analysis. As they were resting, the wind whipped the rope pulling one side so that it no longer touched the ground. If they had had the middle of the rope marked, this accident would not have occurred.

Not marking the middle of the rope is willfully increasing the hazard of rappelling.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


vector


Jul 9, 2007, 5:01 AM
Post #27 of 64 (3501 views)
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Re: [robdotcalm] Close call [In reply to]
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Glad the OPer did not get injured in front of the kids (or at all).

I have heard from old-timers that they always walk-off when they can, in preference to rappelling. Out of respect for the opinions old climbers who are not dead, I tend to follow this rule.

Sounds like walking down, if possible, would have avoided the whole situation here. I find that a good TR anchor is rarely set up for a straight-forward rappel (you usually have to down-climb to the MP) and almost certainly contributed to not being able to see end in this situation.


AZrockclimber1988


Jul 9, 2007, 6:02 AM
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Re: [vector] Close call [In reply to]
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Your best bet is a bicolor rope, because even when you get the middle marked with a black marker, it wears off after a few climbs. To fix the problem of a mono-colored rope, simple take time to put stopper knots in the ends of the rope. It only take like 30 seconds max. Also if you can walk off, in my opinion, rapping has a larger possibility of mistake then climbing. Which this reminds me, back up your rap, it is too easy to accidently let go and fall to a serious injury or death.

Climb and Rap Safe
Michael


wmfork


Jul 9, 2007, 6:26 AM
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Re: [hishopper] Close call [In reply to]
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Not that you should feel better, but you are not alone.

I almost did that with a mammut rope (which also had the same 5m from end marker as the middle marker). And it just so happened the rap anchor already had a couple of locking biners...

I often theorizes how badly I would have gotten hurt (40 ft to hard packed snow, and if lucky to a sloping snow field, but I also had ice tools attached to the back of my harness). And yes, I was stupid to not have tied knots, make sure the middle really was the middle, etc, but I also came to the sobering realization that, no matter how safe we want to make climbing, it is inherently dangerous. One just hope the little mistakes don't catch up to us before we expire some other way.


socalclimber


Jul 10, 2007, 12:13 AM
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Re: [AZrockclimber1988] Close call [In reply to]
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AZrockclimber1988 wrote:
Your best bet is a bicolor rope, because even when you get the middle marked with a black marker, it wears off after a few climbs. To fix the problem of a mono-colored rope, simple take time to put stopper knots in the ends of the rope. It only take like 30 seconds max. Also if you can walk off, in my opinion, rapping has a larger possibility of mistake then climbing. Which this reminds me, back up your rap, it is too easy to accidently let go and fall to a serious injury or death.

Climb and Rap Safe
Michael

While bicolor'd ropes are great (yes, I own one) they are not a replacement for ensuring the ends are even. Period. This isn't complicated folks. Stop relying on short cuts and start relying on common sense and you are likely to live a lot longer. For all the spray and talk on this site, very few seem to understand that your best/worst tool is your brain.

Oh, and if you are headed up a long multi pitch route requiring raps to get off, make sure the middle mark is correct BEFORE YOU HEAD UP THE ROUTE.

Robert


(This post was edited by socalclimber on Jul 10, 2007, 12:19 AM)


billcoe_


Jul 10, 2007, 4:45 AM
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Re: [flint] Close call [In reply to]
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flint wrote:
Is there an easy, cheap way to mark your middle and ends at home, I have looked everywhere (short of ordering online) for a blue water marker. I know the sharpies are dangerous, I have used tape, which is nice for night raps cause i can feel it pass, but it moves and gums up, I do use end nots but would like a simple middle marker.

Thanks

Just mark it yourself with one of these products:
http://www.gearexpress.biz/...p;Product_Code=32542

http://www.backcountrygear.com/...limbdetail.cfm/BE175

Best to buy it with a middle mark, or a bicolor if you can afford it.

Good luck!

Bill


summerprophet


Jul 10, 2007, 4:52 AM
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Re: [jt512] Close call [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
Is there any other sport, besides rock climbing, whose participants are becoming less and less knowledgeable with time?

So are you an asshole in real life, or do you just play one on RC.com.


jt512


Jul 10, 2007, 4:54 AM
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Re: [summerprophet] Close call [In reply to]
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summerprophet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Is there any other sport, besides rock climbing, whose participants are becoming less and less knowledgeable with time?

So are you an asshole in real life, or do you just play one on RC.com.

Why is that an asshole comment? It's a fact. On the whole, the rock climbing population has become less and less knowledgeable over time.

Jay


socalclimber


Jul 10, 2007, 4:59 AM
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Re: [jt512] Close call [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Is there any other sport, besides rock climbing, whose participants are becoming less and less knowledgeable with time?

So are you an asshole in real life, or do you just play one on RC.com.

Why is that an asshole comment? It's a fact. On the whole, the rock climbing population has become less and less knowledgeable over time.

Jay

If being an asshole cause you want to live is a bad thing...


overlord


Jul 10, 2007, 5:09 AM
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Re: [jt512] Close call [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Is there any other sport, besides rock climbing, whose participants are becoming less and less knowledgeable with time?

So are you an asshole in real life, or do you just play one on RC.com.

Why is that an asshole comment? It's a fact. On the whole, the rock climbing population has become less and less knowledgeable over time.

Jay

i also see this trend. but it is to be expected with the influx of new climbers we get as the popularity of climbing rises.


medicus


Jul 10, 2007, 5:12 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Close call [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
jt512 wrote:
summerprophet wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Is there any other sport, besides rock climbing, whose participants are becoming less and less knowledgeable with time?

So are you an asshole in real life, or do you just play one on RC.com.

Why is that an asshole comment? It's a fact. On the whole, the rock climbing population has become less and less knowledgeable over time.

Jay

If being an asshole cause you want to live is a bad thing...

I'm not following this last comment here... were you trying to say "If being an asshole causes you to want to live, it's a bad thing...?"

Or "If being an asshole because you want to live is a bad thing...?"

I don't know... sorry, I'm just not understanding how this one is being said.


(This post was edited by medicus on Jul 10, 2007, 5:14 AM)


bent_gate


Jul 10, 2007, 5:23 AM
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Re: [hishopper] Close call [In reply to]
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btw, I received a prompt reponse to my email on this from Petzl and they said they "are looking into it and will be contacting the original poster."


wmfork


Jul 10, 2007, 4:52 PM
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Re: [bent_gate] Close call [In reply to]
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bent_gate wrote:
btw, I received a prompt reponse to my email on this from Petzl and they said they "are looking into it and will be contacting the original poster."

Brad, if you don't mind, I'll copy parts of your well-composed e-mail to Mammut, as the same thing almost happened to me.


livinonasandbar


Jul 10, 2007, 5:18 PM
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Re: [dingus] Close call [In reply to]
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This thread reminds me of that story about two guys peeing off a bridge. One turns to the other and says, "Damn, that water's cold!" Not to be outdone, the other guy replies, "Yeah, and deep, too..."

Always know where your ends are, I guess...


reno


Jul 10, 2007, 5:24 PM
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Re: [livinonasandbar] Close call [In reply to]
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livinonasandbar wrote:
This thread reminds me of that story about two guys peeing off a bridge. One turns to the other and says, "Damn, that water's cold!" Not to be outdone, the other guy replies, "Yeah, and deep, too..."

And then the first guy replies "Even deeper down stream."


markc


Jul 10, 2007, 5:30 PM
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Re: [socalclimber] Close call [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
While bicolor'd ropes are great (yes, I own one) they are not a replacement for ensuring the ends are even. Period. This isn't complicated folks. Stop relying on short cuts and start relying on common sense and you are likely to live a lot longer. For all the spray and talk on this site, very few seem to understand that your best/worst tool is your brain.

Oh, and if you are headed up a long multi pitch route requiring raps to get off, make sure the middle mark is correct BEFORE YOU HEAD UP THE ROUTE.

Good advice regarding checking the middle mark. I typically throw my rope into a backpack coil for approaches or at the end of the day. If your middle mark is off, that will let you know.

I like having a middle mark or bi-weave rope. It saves the hassle of comparing coils of rope and guestimating if you're doing single-rope rappels. That said, I always want to make sure the ends aren't tangled, they're sitting where I want them, etc. I rappel slowly, alternating my gaze between my path and the ends of the rope. It seems way too common for people to lunch while rappelling.

In the OP's situation, I would have likely fed one end through the anchor and had someone on the ground yell out when it touched down. Then I would have thrown the remainder and had someone weigh the rope to see how the anchor is loading. Depending upon the crag, I'm more likely to walk off rather than rappel from an anchor over the edge of an overhanging route.

PS - Don't trust kids.


livinonasandbar


Jul 10, 2007, 6:06 PM
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Re: [markc] Close call [In reply to]
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Markc said:"I rappel slowly, alternating my gaze between my path and the ends of the rope. It seems way too common for people to lunch while rappelling."

And getting peanut butter all over the rope just adds to the risk of sliding off the ends!


markc


Jul 10, 2007, 6:41 PM
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Re: [livinonasandbar] Close call [In reply to]
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livinonasandbar wrote:
markc wrote:
I rappel slowly, alternating my gaze between my path and the ends of the rope. It seems way too common for people to lunch while rappelling.

And getting peanut butter all over the rope just adds to the risk of sliding off the ends!

I'd think jelly would be equally bad or worse. I certainly wouldn't count on jam living up to its name in that situation.

(In case 'lunch' isn't as common as I think, it means you're 'out to lunch' or mentally checked out.)


majid_sabet


Jul 10, 2007, 6:59 PM
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Re: [markc] Close call [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Not marking the middle of the rope is willfully increasing the hazard of rappelling.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


I totally disagree with marking rope to avoid fatal mistake. This habit of marking ropes and color coding equipment is turning climbers to blind robots. Sir, you need to get your lazy as* in to work by pulling that 60 meter rope out, measure 30 +- meter rope out using your hand, throw it down with a knot at the end and rap . You need to do this every time.

edit; my mistake "knot"


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jul 10, 2007, 7:18 PM)


Partner robdotcalm


Jul 10, 2007, 7:14 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Close call [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
In reply to:
Not marking the middle of the rope is willfully increasing the hazard of rappelling.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


I totally disagree with marking rope to avoid fatal mistake. This habit of marking ropes and color coding equipment is turning climbers to blind robots. Sir, you need to get your lazy as* in to work by pulling that 60 meter rope out, measure 30 +- meter rope out using your hand, throw it down with a nut at the end and rap . You need to do this every time.

Your're right. I totally agree with you. It's a good idea to throw a nut down on the end of the rope. Are you volunteering?

cheers, r.c


reg


Jul 10, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Close call [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
In reply to:
Not marking the middle of the rope is willfully increasing the hazard of rappelling.

Cheers,
Rob.calm


..... throw it down with a nut at the end and rap . You need to do this every time.

but majid - won't you get hurt?


markc


Jul 10, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Close call [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
In reply to:
Not marking the middle of the rope is willfully increasing the hazard of rappelling.

Cheers,
Rob.calm

I totally disagree with marking rope to avoid fatal mistake. This habit of marking ropes and color coding equipment is turning climbers to blind robots. Sir, you need to get your lazy as* in to work by pulling that 60 meter rope out, measure 30 +- meter rope out using your hand, throw it down with a nut at the end and rap . You need to do this every time.

First off, why did you reply to me and quote Rob? I guess I shouldn't assume a logical basis for any of your actions.

Second, none of us have said middle-marks are foolproof. We've said they're one more tool which can help you more quickly find the approximate middle. You should know if your middle mark is accurate, and visually confirm the ends are where you want them. From experience, I know I can find the approximate middle fairly reliably when threading a rope without a middle mark. I know I can do so more quickly with a properly marked rope.

Putting stopper knots on your rappel line has been discussed repeatedly. (I assume you meant knots rater than nuts.) As with most things in climbing, there are benefits and drawbacks that have to be evaluated. If I know where I'm going and I can see my ends, I'm more likely to rappel without them. YMMV, but I won't have the practice rammed down my throat. You're welcome to respond with a drawing of me busting my ass.


majid_sabet


Jul 10, 2007, 7:20 PM
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Re: [markc] Close call [In reply to]
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Not you mark, it was for Rob


medicus


Jul 10, 2007, 7:25 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Close call [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
I totally disagree with marking rope to avoid fatal mistake. This habit of marking ropes and color coding equipment is turning climbers to blind robots. Sir, you need to get your lazy as* in to work by pulling that 60 meter rope out, measure 30 +- meter rope out using your hand, throw it down with a knot at the end and rap . You need to do this every time.

edit; my mistake "knot"

majid_sabet wrote:
I am not a climber


marcuder


Jul 10, 2007, 7:33 PM
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Re: [markc] Close call [In reply to]
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When I was starting out in climbing, a friend of mine, a very experienced climber gave me a very wise and easy tip to follow in regard to rapelling:

While rapelling always try to confirm that both ends ended up on the ground and while on the way down keep your eyes firmly on the rope 6-10 feet below you. Ever since then I make a lot of effort to stay consciouss of the state the rope is in below me.

I've always noticed that people on rapell seem to be more concerned with looking at their feet or anywhere else rather that which should be most important - the rope. If you start trusting rope markings, knots, whatever you're consigning your life to a lot of chance. Check that the rope is ok and you'll be ok.

Incidentally, this opinion was reinforced last year when I saw someone rap off the end of their rope and crash. They were looking everywhere except where it mattered...


Another important note - it is possible under certain circumstances for one strand to ride up and thereby causing rope lengths to uneven. Again - look where you're going and you'll be fine.

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