You are in a remote wilderness area doing an extremely hard FA and a loose block flies by, missing you and killing your partner.

No-one knows you two are there, so no-one will look for you. You are alone with one rope (lets say the loose block took your other rope, rack, and all gear but a few slings down). So you are alone, in shock, and there are 5 pitches of 5.12 R above you. 200 feet below you there is a ledge that you might be able to walk off the formation on. You really have nothing to lose.

...
Far far better than any of this bullshit is to tell someone where you're going and when you expect to get back.

I have the entire solution to the professor's challenge


The waterfall is dry, so a lot of trees and bushes, grass and moss, are growing on the cracks and ledges. This is home to a lot of creatures.

But not blue jays!

Jays like the big woods, the kind you see in Canada and USA, where they can fly from tree to tree. They like evergreens, especially pines, so they compete with red squirrels (but not grey squirrels, who prefer deciduous).
In my neighbourhood, they often fly from tree-top to tree-top, always in a straight line, always at least 10 meters off the ground. When they meet a red squirrel, they argue for the rights to the tree branches.

Based on this knowledge, the professor's solution is:


professor decided to go naked as a jay-bird, and spent the rest of the morning enjoying the sun and the wind and the birds (but not the jays).

After enjoying his lunch in peace, he packs up his clothes and gear, and hits the trail back to his camp, so he could enjoy a delightful dinner and lovely night.

The professor might be smart, but he ain't crazy!

thanks angry!

[image]http://birdonthemoon.com/you_win_the_prize-thumb.jpeg[/image]

When you have the time to climb every single day with no end in sight, you have to just take some time off once in a while or you'll die.

Majid,
I think the whole point of what angry is implying is that this should be possible to do with gear that any climber has at hand. He didn't say this explicitly, but he did imply it.

I carry a knife. I carry an ATC. I carry rope, sometimes 2 ropes. I carry gear. I carry a headlamp. I carry a jacket, sometimes extra clothes. I carry water and food.

I don't carry a modified rescue 8 for belaying. I realize this can be used for belaying, but out of the people who use a figure 8 in the USA, very few of them use a rescue 8.

Give that same amount of rope/cord that Angry is shown to an inmate in death row and then put them on the top of 20 story high building and tell them “freedom is at the bottom of the wall”

You will see how they manage to get down.

Nice work ! Angry you did a great job..... but I have to give the win to Majid.  you see while many of Majids  post are bullshit they have just enough truth in them to make us all think HMMMM will that work?In this case the results are a solid maybe. BUT Majid gets the win because he made you waste most of a day (A good weather climbing day) to prove him wrong.  Majid is a distorted individual who gets off pissing people off and wasting their time .  Clearly he won this round.

NICE JOB MAJID

I suggested this solution by ripping the cord apart and tie it together to make the last effort to help you in getting down to base. As I said, use it as the last effort when you have insufficient length of soft gear to complete a long rap. Yes, you can die if you rig this thing incorrectly but you still have higher chances to survive if you get down vs. sitting on a ledge and die for not reaching the base. Give that same amount of rope/cord that Angry is shown to an inmate in death row and then put them on the top of 20 story high building and tell them “freedom is at the bottom of the wall”

You will see how they manage to get down.

we got two issues here which we need to discuss;

A- This SOL method does not work at all and just forget about it.

B- It could work with the right tools, and right person as the last resource considering all the risk that is involved with it.

Now, you want sit on the ledge and hope someone will show up 9 days later to bag you up or you want to try to become creative and save your life?

of course , you could die while trying this but , do you rather die on the ledge cause no one came for you or die while trying to save your life?

I know I am not sitting on the ledge crying and waiting for SAR to get me out. Unless I am in really in a bad shape with a missing leg or an arm, I will do any thing and make any rig to get myself out of the situation.

we got two issues here which we need to discuss;

A- This SOL method does not work at all and just forget about it.

B- It could work with the right tools, and right person as the last resource considering all the risk that is involved with it.

Now, you want sit on the ledge and hope someone will show up 9 days later to bag you up or you want to try to become creative and save your life?

of course , you could die while trying this but , do you rather die on the ledge cause no one came for you or die while trying to save your life?

I know I am not sitting on the ledge crying and waiting for SAR to get me out. Unless I am in really in a bad shape with a missing leg or an arm, I will do any thing and make any rig to get myself out of the situation.

Angry

I am going to get the 5 meter rope apart and have that 30 footer tied up to rap with my 8.

You better hope something happens to me, otherwise , I am coming after you once I get down.

Oh so much bullshit!!

Your claim was you could get down 30 feet with 5 feet of rope.

Don't change your own rules now.

Keep your cash dude cause I could take that 5 feet of rope rip it apart and rap 30 feet of distance with it if I get stuck in a situation while people like you call 911 for help.

if you got 12 cords inside a rope then I could use 3 of them to hold a body weight . That will give me @ 4 sets of 5 meter tied up togehter.

Now to the actual rap.

Lets ignore distance knots use, and say that 5 feet of rope will make 30 feet of double strands. That means it will need to be tied to the anchor and you'll rap is as a single line and pass knots.

Standard setup

You're running out of rope Majid.

trophy!

Angry

What is your personal problem with this setup

is it

A- The distance
B- The friction?

And let's not forget about tying knots at the end so you don't rap off the ends of your rop...strands.

But seriously, I think this was a good test, as I've thought of this as an end-all action to take if I had no other options. But even then, I'd still try to find as many other ways as possible before I cut my rope up. Seriously, once you do that, there's no going back. I'd much rather sit for a couple of days without food or water with a healthy rope thinking of what to do next than break apart my most useful piece of equipment. There has to be a way to get out of a situation without tearing apart your rope. I mean, you got to that point, right? Surely you can get somewhere else. There's a reason why we Mainers say "you can't get theah from heah" as a joke. If you're stuck where you are, get to another location and keep moving until you aren't stuck any more. That may not be easy, and may require several trials and errors, but there has to be a solution somewhere.

Nice work Angry.

Why are there rainbows shooting out of that guy's crotch? Wait, I think I saw Def Leppard do this at the Meadowlands during the '87 Hysteria tour.

If you read what he said..... its both. And the fact that the strands don't hold up to multiple rappels. And your math.

An interesting point was roy hinkleys (i think) about doing multiple wraps around a biner instead of a munter to increase friction.

The original discussion was not about a healthy 60 meter rope but a freaking rock fall cutting your rope where you end up with short section of a rope in your hand on the ledge.

You still want to sit hopeless on a ledge waving hand for condors till their meal is ready or you want to rap?

I'm curious by the way, is this bungee cord?

rapping is not the only alternative.

OK, so I didn't get the original topic. My bad, sorry about that. But my point remains the same; rapping is not the only alternative. You've got gear on you, right? Plug it and move. If there are no pro opportunities, move until you find some. I'm not saying it is easy, I'm just saying that rapping isn't the only solution, even if you you've only got five feet of rope available. There has to be something nearby, or else how did you get there in the first place?

I wouldn't wait for the condors to eat me. I'd play dead and catch them when they flew in for a meal, break their necks and eat them raw off the bone. Grrrrrr...

When pushed, I can downclimb into the mid to upper 11 range. I'd give that a go before rapping 30 feet on bullshit. As long as I didn't fall in the first few moves I'd have as much chance of surviving the fall as I would on the rope.

When pushed, I can downclimb into the mid to upper 11 range. I'd give that a go before rapping 30 feet on bullshit. As long as I didn't fall in the first few moves I'd have as much chance of surviving the fall as I would on the rope.

I wish every climber was Rambo like yourself but no sir, you need to read some of the rescue reports then you will find out what they do out there.

History has proven that; people who constantly challenge their comfort zone have higher chances to survive then those sitting on the ledge .

How are you going to down climb an AID FACE where there are no hold, no crack no NADA

You aided 30 feet off the ground to ledge and ended up there with only 5 feet of rope?

Is that what you are saying?

How many times you climbed a section but rap from another area where the whole wall is clean like a mirror ?

How many times you climbed a section but rap from another area where the whole wall is clean like a mirror ?

How many times do you take a separate rap route that ends 30 feet off the ground on a ledge?

Our discussion and I hope your test is not about rapping with 5 feet of rope as an standard methods to rap on walls but an alternative SOL solution incase you have no rope other than that 5 feet while sitting on a ledge where you got only one option. Either fall or rap.

Let’s not talk about, you can down climb or call mommy for help or wait for SAR to show up 8 days later ok.

Again, my question from you is this;

Can you rap 30 feet with this SOL cord or not?

Just say yes or no

I'm going to make a bold prediction that in the next 1,000 years of climbing, nobody will ever be in the situation that their life or death hinges on their knowledge of/ability to execute this craptacular bit of rope surgery.

OK.. so let's get this story straight.. I've rapped to a ledge that is just 30 ft off the ground, and beneath this anchor is a sheet of glass, and this ledge has a rap station...

I had to cut the ends off my stupid Petzl Zephyr, so I barely made it to the ledge with rope stretch... and when begin to pull that rope down, a Pterodactyl swoops by and severs the rope, leaving me with 5 feet and the remainder of the rope tumbles down the rest of the cliff.

Where is my partner in all this? Where is our gear? Do we not carry runners? I've got 5 ft of rope.. I'll fix that to the anchor and tie a loop on the other end.. there, I'm down 4 ft... 26 to go... clip a runner in to that.. I'm down 2 more feet... biner.. runner.. etc.. I'm out of biners? girth hitch... Am I getting close? I know I usually have at least one double runner.. that'll get me another 4 ft...

Did we build anchors on this climb? Surely I've got at least one equalette on me... whoah that's 22 feet right there.. ok too easy... what about the 2 prusiks that I've always got on me... I could untie those and have 10 feet....

I've got pants and a shirt.. I'd trust those more than Angry's threads.. tie 'em on.. Batman down 'em...

Am I getting close? or am I to assume that fate has plopped me naked on a ledge 30 feet above a sheet of glass with nothing but a 5-ft long bunch of climbing rope, my harness, an ATC, and a knife?

I suppose my partner's the prankster responsible for my current state.. probably drugged me up and ran away with all our gear and clothes.

There is no realistic scenario where disassembling your rope is the safest available option. Lovely basis for a theoretical discussion, this has gone beyond ludicrous.

I'm going to make a bold prediction that in the next 1,000 years of climbing, nobody will ever be in the situation that their life or death hinges on their knowledge of/ability to execute this craptacular bit of rope surgery.

The answer, that I've been quite clear about in this situation is NO.

I can't rap 30 feet with 5 feet. You can't rap 30 feet feet with 5.

No-one can rap 30 feet with 5.

That's been my point the whole time.

I've made this clear on several different posts on this thread.

Do you understand? I've tested your method and it failed. Catastrophically.

OK.. so let's get this story straight.. I've rapped to a ledge that is just 30 ft off the ground, and beneath this anchor is a sheet of glass, and this ledge has a rap station...

I had to cut the ends off my stupid Petzl Zephyr, so I barely made it to the ledge with rope stretch... and when begin to pull that rope down, a Pterodactyl swoops by and severs the rope, leaving me with 5 feet and the remainder of the rope tumbles down the rest of the cliff.

Where is my partner in all this? Where is our gear? Do we not carry runners? I've got 5 ft of rope.. I'll fix that to the anchor and tie a loop on the other end.. there, I'm down 4 ft... 26 to go... clip a runner in to that.. I'm down 2 more feet... biner.. runner.. etc.. I'm out of biners? girth hitch... Am I getting close? I know I usually have at least one double runner.. that'll get me another 4 ft...

Did we build anchors on this climb? Surely I've got at least one equalette on me... whoah that's 22 feet right there.. ok too easy... what about the 2 prusiks that I've always got on me... I could untie those and have 10 feet....

I've got pants and a shirt.. I'd trust those more than Angry's threads.. tie 'em on.. Batman down 'em...

Am I getting close? or am I to assume that fate has plopped me naked on a ledge 30 feet above a sheet of glass with nothing but a 5-ft long bunch of climbing rope, my harness, an ATC, and a knife?

I suppose my partner's the prankster responsible for my current state.. probably drugged me up and ran away with all our gear and clothes.

There is no realistic scenario where disassembling your rope is the safest available option. Lovely basis for a theoretical discussion, this has gone beyond ludicrous.

I'm going to make a bold prediction that in the next 1,000 years of climbing, nobody will ever be in the situation that their life or death hinges on their knowledge of/ability to execute this craptacular bit of rope surgery.

Again, my question from you is this;

Can you rap 30 feet with this SOL cord or not?

Just say yes or no

You failed due to lack of skills and not knowing how to use tools to create friction.

You failed due to lack of skills and not knowing how to use tools to create friction.

Majid, your b.s. has been called out. Period. The only way to end this gracefully for you is a) admit you are wrong b) prove you are right by rapping 30 ft with 5 FEET of rope, not 5 METERS, not with any specialized equipment that a person would not normally carry up a climb that you HAVE NOT mentioned in your original scenario.

No Majid.

I did not fail.

Your. Method. Failed.

I am certain that if you used your ultimate weekend warrior play-with-your-toys rescue 8 on the same test that it too, would break the line.

2 strands of core are that fragile. Do the test yourself. Put a crashpad at the bottom of your tree.

So here is your challenge. With 5 feet of rope, you need to rap 30 feet freehanging. You can use any gear, rap device, or whatever you'd like. The only restriction is that it has to work on the first try. You won't make it. I am as certain of this as I am certain that I could free solo your hardest climb before I do my warmup.

If I am wrong, next time I am in Yosemite I'll carry you up to Half Dome on my shoulders.

What if I show on film that I could rap with 5 feet of rope, some 30 feet with ATC and a few biners?.


What would say to Angry then ?

BS for failing to do his test correctly ?

5 feet of rope, 30 feet of rap on commonly use rapping device (atc, 8..) . and you carry my ass up on 1/2 dome.

DEAL

Well if that's what you want. My offer was to actually carry you UP Half Dome. That's how certain I am that this won't work.

I am doing HD this summer so 12 pack of Corona and large pizza in in Yos next time

How about that ?

I am doing HD this summer so 12 pack of Corona and large pizza in in Yos next time

How about that ?

So here is your challenge. With 5 feet of rope, you need to rap 30 feet freehanging. You can use any gear, rap device, or whatever you'd like. The only restriction is that it has to work on the first try. You won't make it. I am as certain of this as I am certain that I could free solo your hardest climb before I do my warmup.

This is usually the part of the discussion where majid abandons his latest batshit-insane assertion and moves onto his next batshit-insane assertion. When called upon to prove that his ridiculous claims are true, he invariably backs out and shuts his spray-spouter for a few weeks until he can chime in on some other thread with some other idiotic idea.

As others in this thread have said, majid, you've repeatedly put forth these outlandish scenarios and your incredibly unlikely "solution" to them and repeatedly been called upon to put up or shut up. Don't you think it's about time you did everyone on this site a huge favor and SHUT THE FUCK UP before you get someone killed trying your retarded ideas?

in Nov of 2004, a big wall climber was found fronzen to death ,less than 20 feet of the Zodiac base cause his rap rope ended up been too short.

Why his rope was short ?

Cause he jammed his jummar 5 pitches up and had to cut a section of his rope to free it and ended up coming up short.

Don't you think it's about time you did everyone on this site a huge favor and SHUT THE FUCK UP before you get someone killed trying your retarded ideas?

Don't stop him now. WE WANT VIDEO.

I don't recall hearing anything about this... couldn't find anything on it in a search.

So let me get this straight.. some partnerless climber chops his rope because he jammed his ascender while jugging up a very popular aid route. Eventually, he decides to bail and so is stuck rapping the route. He ends up caught 20 feet off the deck because he doesn't have enough rope.

What did he do with the rope and jumar he chopped? He managed to get stuck above the base of the most popular route on El Cap and stay there long enough to freeze to death before anybody found him?

Did he choose to bail without any of his other gear? He was on a big-wall aid route, so I imagine he had a fair amount of equipment. This dipshit decides to hang on his rope and freeze to death instead of jug back up to his last anchor and bivy?

This dipshit can't link some slings together and get to the ground? Improvise with some cord he probably had on hand? His only feasible option was to use your retarded spaghetti-shred?

BS Majid. This did not happen. If it really did happen, and this guy got stranded 20 feet off the ground despite having all that other gear with him, he got what he deserved. Even naked on the end of that rope, any non-moron would take his chance wth the 20-foot fall.

I stand by my prediction. 1,000 years.

Angry,

I'd be very interested to hear what you do for a job, and where I could get one like it, or if you don't work, how you manage to get money for climbing trips.

Angry,

I'd still like an answer to my original question.

Thanks.

I wrote:


Cheers.

The first rule of ______ is that you don't talk about _______.

If people started figuring out that I actually make money doing _______ I probably would stop making money.

I hope that helps.

The first rule of ______ is that you don't talk about _______.

If people started figuring out that I actually make money doing _______ I probably would stop making money.

I hope that helps.

The first rule of COVERT OPS is that you don't talk about COVERT OPS.

If people started figuring out that I actually make money doing COVERT OPS I probably would stop making money.

I hope that helps.

Do you understand? I've tested your method and it failed. Catastrophically.

I work my ass off.

When you have the time to climb every single day with no end in sight, you have to just take some time off once in a while or you'll die.