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robbovius
Aug 8, 2008, 4:52 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: robbovius wrote: gunks in 26. Huh? Looks like Jen and I will be there for an extended weekend (fri - mon) as a result of a poor weather forecast in the 'Dacks.  I imagine we'll be at Slime.
maybe we will run into each other. jen would recognize me. gunks in 14
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core
Aug 8, 2008, 12:22 PM
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core
Aug 9, 2008, 1:51 AM
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ambler
Aug 10, 2008, 4:29 PM
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In case you hadn't seen shakylegs' post ... anybody here know anything about Yulia's specific plans in Peru? Her father reports that they are stuck at 6200m on Chopicalqui, but does not know what route. He asks for info to pass along to rescue teams.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 1:59 AM
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core wrote: Have fun Rob! The weather is looking pretty good this weekend.
It was awesome. Friday aftre setting up my tent in in the rain, i wen to the trapps and rope soloed black fly simply as a "Howdy" to the cliffs then hung out at the campsite scrounging forewood eating a cold dinner and keeping the fire stoked to chase back the night. spooky in them woods, alone.
slept well though, surprisingly
met Tai at the trapps parking lot at 8:30, hailed fellows well met and all, and proceded to get in a good day at the trapps and nears, until my endurance started to fade a bit.
I can add the following onsights to my gunks resume:
- Harvard, with the "under the block" start.
- Pitch 2 of Disneyland
- Pitch 1 of Layback, facing towards the wall starting the chimney. Tai graciously didn't tell me I was doing hte chimney the hard way until we were at the belay. I found the chimney thought provoking.
I felt really good after that day, confident and if not strong, then at least capable. tai is of the opinion I am ready for shockleys. we shall see.
- as an aside, remember when I led High E, back in '05, and was all panicked on the money pitch? well, at the end of saturday I finally felt that i was ready to lead High E. seems I led High E way before I was mentally ready.
saturday night bachhus and shooting pool, then a short campfire and review of the day, then an early crash about 9:30. I was awakend around 11 by voices and headlamps of a couple invading our campsite adn setting up the tent. I was confused, being wakened from a deep sleep and asked who it was thinking it was tai possibly, bu the guy answered, "we're just setting up." which he and his girlfriend proceeded to do making a couple trips back to their car. each time I'd doze off and then be startled awake again as they came back and continued talking.
at one point I rolled over and farted, to which the guy said "nice." and I answered, "That's what you get for waking me up."
after a while they quieted down and I fell asleep and slept soundly
sunday we climbed beginners delight of which I led p1 and p3. the air and exposure at the top of p3 is fantastic! I'm happy to add those onsight pitches to my resume as well.
we got chased off the cliff by the rain, and I copped a small rope burn on my hand from a bonehead move whilst doing my first simulrap ever. thanks to Tai for being chill and setting up a bomber rap. at the bottom we got SOAKED. I didn't care, this was the best Gunks weekend I've ever had, a peak life experience I will remember forever.
My leader confidence has taken a beating over hte last 18 months or so, what with all the tendonitis injuries, the trigger finger issues in my right hand, etc, but the onsights I got this weekend were super confidence boosters. NOW I feel like I can honestly say, I can lead gunks .6
Thanks, Tai good times. Ice this winter.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 11, 2008, 10:48 AM)
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 2:04 AM
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ambler wrote: In case you hadn't seen shakylegs' post ... anybody here know anything about Yulia's specific plans in Peru? Her father reports that they are stuck at 6200m on Chopicalqui, but does not know what route. He asks for info to pass along to rescue teams. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread
damn I wish I knew. hope she and her party come donw okay...
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jakedatc
Aug 11, 2008, 2:20 AM
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Here's more hopes that Julia is doing ok and they get down safe.
sounds like fun Rob. One of these days i'll get down the gunks again and scratch up my gear more.
This weekend i went to RIRG thursday night. kicked the crap out of myself in search of this thing you call... endurance? It's funny how gym routes are so much more sustained than most things at the same grade at Rumney. Friday went for a 32mi bike ride... watched olympics yesterday.. then today i went on a very hilly 60mi ride. I survived but it was not comfortable
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core
Aug 11, 2008, 2:30 AM
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orangekyak
Aug 11, 2008, 2:46 AM
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Sending prayers to 6200 feet and beyond.
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 11:13 AM
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core wrote: Nice Rob, it's a fantastic feeling when your lead-head starts catching up with your physical ability. Good for you. I think it's great that you met up with Tai too; he has a cool head and is very encouraging. I think he was the first person to hand me a rack and say "go, you can do this."
I've climbed with him twice before. the first time believe it or not, at College Rock when he was out our way for an MTB competition if IIRC, and the second as part of two teams (chad and I were one) on both Betty and Gelsa the weekend of the Deathscort Misadventure in '06
the rope burn I caught on the simulrap was entirely of my own doing, and as usual a culmination of several small mistakes: I was hurrying at a new untried skill, I had become used to autoblocking with a nylon sling, but had glazed it on the rap off Layback the day before, thrown it away and return to the 6mm cord I'd used before (the 6mm cord doesn't grip the rope nearly as well), dropped my sadddlebag ropecoil and had to quickly reflake and capture, and then, distracted, wound too few coils around the single brake line with the 6mm...the same number of coils which would have been fine with the nylon sling btw.
also I didn't extend my belay device, that was the about the biggest mistake.
when I went over the edge, the autoblock didn't catch and my brake hand was wet, (we were already getting rained on pretty well), and I zinged down about teh first 10 feet, had a moment of panic, and just like all the books say not to grabbed the upper line with my left hand. sizzle. paid for it with a small second degree burn just below the middle finger.
after that I got control and the rest of the rap went okay, but my head didn't settle until we were on teh ground. Tai was awesome, just chill and encouraging the whole way down. once down on the ground we were kinda laughing about it. I was happy to hear that I didn't scream like a little girl.
I need to practice that simulrap more, and I swear on the lives of my children that I'm gonna extend my device on every autoblocked rap forever from now on.
Had a much better time with the doubles this weekend, no tangles at all. Tai turned me onto his ATC Guide, which made belaying doubles from the anchor sweet and easy, none of the redirect crap which contributed to the rope managment problem I was having back in april.
In reply to: Also, 2 weeks ago Alex, Jeremy and I stumbled across a nearly empty Arrow wall. Jeremy somehow convinced Alex that she should lead P1 of Limelight )her hardest and most committing onsight). There she was, standing about 5-10 ft over her last piece eying up some committing moves...turning her chin over her shoulder expressing her uncertainty about the situation. When the climber to her right provided enough human contact and encouragement for her to fire the moves. Lo-and-behold we got the GT ledge and it was Tai.
he menmtioned seeing you guys there then, but didn't mention that.
jeremy, +1. hoping they all come down okay.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 11, 2008, 11:15 AM)
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 12:43 PM
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orangekyak wrote: Sending prayers to 6200 feet and beyond.
Jer, its 6200 meters, more like 20,300 feet.
many many prayers, hopes for safe return. I keep remembering belaying yulia up Layback at QQ in '03...her flailing and yelling "I suck! I suck!" Chad, Jason, Yulia and I grilling after dark that night when Mars was closest and very bright, shining over swingles quarry, and her sharing this pastry she'd baked...
damn man, hope she comes down okay...
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 11, 2008, 12:44 PM)
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wonderwoman
Aug 11, 2008, 1:52 PM
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First of all - all positive thoughts going to Julia and her partner right now.
We did the gunks, too... sort of. Josh and I got one climb in each this weekend, due to spending a majority of the weekend helping my sister move (she lives in Kerhonksen - 20 minutes from New Paltz). Here's our summary:
Saturday: I took a 15 ft nosedive on Nosedive at the barndoor crux and onto a small and sturdy nut .
Sunday: Josh got the onsight on Feast of Fools. (Thanks for suggesting the route, Gabe! It was fun!) For the second weekend in a row, we managed to finish our rap just in time for flash floods!
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cracklover
Aug 11, 2008, 2:20 PM
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Glad the nut held.
Hey, just heard that Dick Williams' new guide to the Nears is currently at the printers, and should be on store shelves in September.
Sweet, enjoy!
GO
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wonderwoman
Aug 11, 2008, 2:28 PM
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Nears is next on our gunks itinerary. We'll have to rely on Swain in the mean time.
Can't believe you guys are leaving in just a few days! We're psyched for you and Allison, but we'll miss you just the same! Thanks for having us over the other night. It was a good time!
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wonderwoman
Aug 11, 2008, 2:33 PM
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by the way, Gabe - did you guys do all 3 pitches of Feast of Fools? I led the last pitch and it was hard to find my way through all that lichen. At first I thought it was going to be a dirty and crappy pitch, but there was quite an awesome 5.6 gunks roof move that involved busting out the 3.5 cam. I ended up liking it a lot!
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cracklover
Aug 11, 2008, 2:51 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: by the way, Gabe - did you guys do all 3 pitches of Feast of Fools? I led the last pitch and it was hard to find my way through all that lichen. At first I thought it was going to be a dirty and crappy pitch, but there was quite an awesome 5.6 gunks roof move that involved busting out the 3.5 cam. I ended up liking it a lot!
Yeah, we did. Pitch two I found much trickier than P1! I can't recall P3 much, aside from thinking that it was very worthwhile climbing, and yes, quite lichen-y.
Tiff, we'll totally miss you and Josh. You guys have been great.
GO
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 3:47 PM
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damn, dude. Bye. the first ascent party was awesome. enjoy the western mnts. good luck to you both.
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orangekyak
Aug 11, 2008, 5:01 PM
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robbovius wrote: orangekyak wrote: Sending prayers to 6200 feet and beyond. Jer, its 6200 meters, more like 20,300 feet.
Oh yeah. Minor measurement miscalculations ... good think I'm aiming for beyond.
Gabe, all my best. Keep in touch.
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cracklover
Aug 11, 2008, 5:22 PM
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Thanks guys! I'll definitely keep in touch, and without a doubt, I'll be a Masshole at heart. Whether that's a good thing or not is uncertain.
GO
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ratherbe
Aug 11, 2008, 5:25 PM
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Josh - I'm free Wed or Thurs and know enough about Farley to keep us busy for a day.
Rob - sorry we missed you at the Gunks. I didn't hear your message until Sun. afternoon. Congrats on a great weekend.
Hope Julia and party make it down safe.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 11, 2008, 5:28 PM
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I just smelled myself after five days away.
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robbovius
Aug 11, 2008, 5:44 PM
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ratherbe wrote: Josh - I'm free Wed or Thurs and know enough about Farley to keep us busy for a day. Rob - sorry we missed you at the Gunks. I didn't hear your message until Sun. afternoon. Congrats on a great weekend. Hope Julia and party make it down safe.
Jen thanks, too bad we didn't bump into each other. did you guys get caught by that downpour sunday? just about all my gear is up in my attic drying out.
BTW, if you have weekday availability occasionally, I may be bothering you about returning there at some point before winter, if you wouldn't mind.
Damn greg, downwind! ;-)
one of my fave pics from this weekend:
Tai at the beginners delight P3 belay, taken from the airy last buttress. 30 minutes later we were soaked ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 11, 2008, 5:45 PM)
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ratherbe
Aug 11, 2008, 6:34 PM
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Robb, we did a great job keeping our gear dry, if not ourselves, this weekend. Greg was one move into Son of Easy O when rumbles started Friday, so he stepped down and we stashed our gear in our packs and under a rock before the skies opened. Then Sunday, we had finished our first climb and where moseying along the trail toward our next when I noticed dark gray skies. We happened to be near some large roofs, so we hung out under those and stayed dry. At least the weather was conducive to climbing on Saturday!
I am available to climb most any week day between now and labor day weekend. 3 weeks off before I rejoin the working world!
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