Sep 4, 2008, 4:50 PM
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How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!
Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.
That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.
Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:
Sport: -Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)- -Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)- -Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)- -Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-
Trad: -Hand or Fist crack- -Off-fingers crack- -Fingercrack or thinner- -Offwidth and/or Chimney- -Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-
FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.
***disclaimer*** I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:
1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.
2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.
3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.
4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.
5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.
My only complaint is that I think there should be a different point-value system for trad routes and for sport routes. Trad routes should be worth more points- I think it is way easier to climb 5.10 sport than it is to do serious 5.8 trad routes. If you kept the same point scale, but started the trad scale at 5.6, so that 5.6 was 2/1, etc, i think that would be better.
Also, is there no category to quantify multipitch? alpine? aid? ice? mixed?
points based on how long your longest multiptich is, trad and sport. Points based on Grade I - V rating for alpine route, something like that. If somebody is truly well rounded, I feel like they would have scores for aid, ice, and mixed stuff, too, even though I don't have any experience in these areas.
I think your worksheet needs to include these factors.
good points, hyongx. I gave sport and trad roughly the same values, because, if everyone enters the same, it does not matter whether trad or sport is worth more.
The end result would still be: "I can pretty much show up to any crag, trad or sport, in the world, and climb "x".
How did you get a "50"? Either you climb like 5.17f, or you did not average out your totals.
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!
Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.
That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.
Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:
Sport: -Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)- -Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)- -Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)- -Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-
Trad: -Hand or Fist crack- -Off-fingers crack- -Fingercrack or thinner- -Offwidth and/or Chimney- -Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-
FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.
***disclaimer*** I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:
1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.
2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.
3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.
4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.
5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.
that is awl.
Okay, I actually did read (most) of that....but I'm not doing that.
I think, in order to really find out how well rounded you are, you'd have to have a crazy bunch of categories. Maybe, you get two values in each category, hardest redpoint, hardest onsight. Trad Sport Boulder Ice Aid So that gives you 10 values. I know that a lot of people, me included would get 0's for ice and aid. So this gives you a numerical score of well rounded-ness, but this number does not translate back to any sort of route difficulty rating.
Then there should also be an experience category, including factors like # of types of rock you've climbed on- (sandstone, limestone, granite, gneiss, etc, etc) # of countries you've climbed in # of US States you've climbed in longest multipitch you've done highest peak bagged, etc etc.
I think, in order to really find out how well rounded you are, you'd have to have a crazy bunch of categories. Maybe, you get two values in each category, hardest redpoint, hardest onsight. Trad Sport Boulder Ice Aid So that gives you 10 values. I know that a lot of people, me included would get 0's for ice and aid. So this gives you a numerical score of well rounded-ness, but this number does not translate back to any sort of route difficulty rating.
Then there should also be an experience category, including factors like # of types of rock you've climbed on- (sandstone, limestone, granite, gneiss, etc, etc) # of countries you've climbed in # of US States you've climbed in longest multipitch you've done highest peak bagged, etc etc.
Honestly, I think the vast majority of rc.com-ers are "U.S. Americans"
There could be a qualifier - If you live in the US, it has to be number of states. If you live out of the US, you get double points for visiting states, or just like points based on number of trips to the US, or particular destinations like the valley, J-tree, CO- areas, the southeast, NE, etc etc. Can you really call yourself a CORE trad climber if you havent been to THE VALLEY, regardless of what country you live in? I am not a core trad climber, but I hope to visit teh valley next summer.
(This post was edited by hyongx on Sep 4, 2008, 6:17 PM)
Honestly, I think the vast majority of rc.com-ers are "U.S. Americans"
There could be a qualifier - If you live in the US, it has to be number of states.
I disagree on that. One can get ten times the experience climbing just in CA, UT, or Colorado separately than they would climbing in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, and Ohio combined.
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Camheds Gheyness Counter.xls
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