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caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 12:45 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

The needles taken as a whole really are not that big. But hell, just that one with atlantis and those other lines might cut the mustard on it's own. I always get the formation names mixed up there though...


caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 12:46 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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PTFTW is stacked with 10 11 and 12.


boadman


May 26, 2010, 12:54 PM
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Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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lithophiliac wrote:
The Lower Town Wall at Index, Washington fits the bill for all three!!

Ditto. It has to be the best single crag in the world for slabby/traddy climbing.


jrathfon


May 26, 2010, 12:55 PM
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Re: [gmggg] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!


captainstatic


May 26, 2010, 1:13 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Edge, IMO you have not spent enough time in RRG if you think it is all pulling pockets. "Indian Creek Crag" in RRG has 17 traditional routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. From the .10a Jim's Dihedral to the .12c Better Red than Dead. For variety these climbs include splitters. dihedrals, roof cracks and offwidth.


csproul


May 26, 2010, 1:15 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?
Wait...are y'all talking about SD or CA?


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 1:34 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

Even if they don't, as soon as I see the word "best" in reference to a climbing area I twitch compusively and MUST reply "Needles". Plus they're pretty.........

Josh


kennoyce


May 26, 2010, 1:44 PM
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Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

No shit. The Needles are the #1 crag on my list to get to. Too bad they're so far away.


Seriously, the needles have been at the top of my list for years, thankfully I'll be moving to socal next month and can finally check them out.


desertwanderer81


May 26, 2010, 4:47 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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It's a little easy for the grade, but I would say hands down the best 10's trad area is Black Velvet Canyon.


cclarke


May 26, 2010, 6:26 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Cookie and Spider's Web for density of mega-classics.

I rule out all sport crags for this discussion.

If you go to bigger walls or more loosely defined crags, it gets more confusing to say what is best.

Needles has got to get a mention. Gunks, Seneca East Face, Squamish, Looking Glass, the New (twenty miles of climbing?), Index, Indian Creek, Eldo, Mt. Lemmon. Where do you draw the line?


currupt4130


May 26, 2010, 7:05 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Did I miss New River Gorge yet? If not, it's my vote. Tons and tons of classics from 5.10-5.12 single pitch trad routes qualify for classic.


wallwombat


May 26, 2010, 7:38 PM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Arapiles.


jh_angel


May 26, 2010, 9:06 PM
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Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh


bennydh


May 26, 2010, 11:39 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

YES

The Needles are awesome. You couldn't ask for better rock quality either.

It also has a natural noob filter, as routes there don't start at an introductory level, there isn't much bolt clipping to be found, its isolated, and requires an approach


edge


May 27, 2010, 5:45 AM
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Re: [bennydh] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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bennydh wrote:
edge wrote:

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

YES

The Needles are awesome. You couldn't ask for better rock quality either.

It also has a natural noob filter, as routes there don't start at an introductory level, there isn't much bolt clipping to be found, its isolated, and requires an approach

My bad, I was thinking SD and you obviously mean CA.

Both are awesome, but you can see where my point stands referring to South Dak, and I can definitely see your point referring to Cali.


mr.tastycakes


May 27, 2010, 6:34 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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2 cents from a not-very-well-traveled climber:

Spider's Web in Chapel Pond Pass, Adirondacks fits the bill, but IMO it's a little smallish to call it "the best" (only about 30 routes, IIRC, I don't have the guide out). The concentration of quality lines is outstanding though. I've still got gobbies all over my hands from a trip 2 weeks ago.

Lost City in the Gunks is great for the grade range you listed. The Trapps kick ass for 5.10 and some 5.11, but there isn't a great concentration of 5.12 and up lines (not that it matters to me, I don't climb that hard).


jrathfon


May 27, 2010, 7:00 AM
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Re: [jh_angel] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.


edge


May 27, 2010, 7:14 AM
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Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.


snodawg


May 27, 2010, 8:31 AM
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Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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I have to agree with Lower Town Wall @ Index. Peace


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 9:10 AM
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Re: [snodawg] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:18 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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desertwanderer81 wrote:
It's a little easy for the grade, but I would say hands down the best 10's trad area is Black Velvet Canyon.

With such routes as Triassic Sands, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Fiddler on the Roof, and Sour Mash, it would certainly make my top 10.

But when the Trapps has Amber Waves of Pain, Balrog, BBB, Birdie Party, Cheap Thrills, Coex, Doubleissima, Erect Direction, Falled on Account of Strain, Graveyard Shift, Matinee, Mothers Day Party, Neverneverland, Nosedive, Retribution, Simple Suff, Feast of Fools, Try Again, and many many more...

I dunno, unless you disqualify it for being too short a cliff, I think it definitely beats BV Canyon easily for 5.10 climbs.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:20 AM
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D'oh! Looks like RR and I were posting at the same time.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:27 AM
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Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

CH does have some real quality climbing - don't sell it short. But no, it's not even a NE destination crag, not to mention an international destination. It's kind of in the same class as Precipice Cliffs, in Acadia. Except that Precipice is 10 times better.

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO


jrathfon


May 27, 2010, 9:30 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

CH does have some real quality climbing - don't sell it short. But no, it's not even a NE destination crag, not to mention an international destination. It's kind of in the same class as Precipice Cliffs, in Acadia. Except that Precipice is 10 times better.

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO

haha, i think i'd put 3 crags on my top 5 mass crags...

from my limited experience, i'd throw cathedral, black velvet wall, and the trapps down for best 5.10 crags, that's right i voted 3 times.


desertwanderer81


May 27, 2010, 9:31 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Don't get me wrong, the Gunks was my first crag home, but BVC..... it's just the place to be for 10's in my book :) Gotta love the sandstone :D

Then again, 10's BVC aren't exactly the same thing as Gunks 10's......

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