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cracklover
Sep 20, 2010, 11:01 PM
Post #76 of 142
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j_ung wrote: I've tried the "new method," too, and frankly, I think it's crap for all but shiny new ropes of relatively small diameter.
I used to think that too. But with more practice, I've found I now prefer the new technique for all but the very fattest and fuzziest of ropes (for which I switch back to the classic method). It did take time to really get good, though. Fortunately, I had my wife to practice on, and she's rather forgiving about short-roped clips.
GO
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chossmonkey
Sep 20, 2010, 11:02 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: notapplicable wrote: chossmonkey wrote: notapplicable wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I use a grigri 99% of the time OMG, on the gear routes too?!?! You must go though partners like a fat lady though BonBons. Partners are disposable! GG PM'd! I'm a wily one!
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vegastradguy
Sep 20, 2010, 11:35 PM
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jt512 wrote: I'm not convinced that the new method is actually safer than the old, provided the old method is correctly employed.
the 'provided' part is pretty key. I cant say i've ever seen someone actually use it as petzl demonstrates and recommends.
I would argue that the classic method, while if properly done is safe, is very likely to find itself mutated in a way that makes it incredibly dangerous (i.e. just holding the cam down).
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JasonsDrivingForce
Sep 21, 2010, 3:08 AM
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I always thought the correct technique for belaying is the one that doesn't end up with the climber decking? What works for one person may not work well for another.
All I know is that what happened in this situation didn't work out for the poor dog that couldn't care less about what belay technique was used.
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USnavy
Sep 21, 2010, 11:50 AM
Post #82 of 142
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majid_sabet wrote: Gri Gri= Condom the consequences can be sever
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 21, 2010, 11:51 AM)
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USnavy
Sep 21, 2010, 11:57 AM
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jt512 wrote: I_do wrote: jt512 wrote: I_do wrote: jt512 wrote: patto wrote: jt512 wrote: In reply to: Do you suggest that a competent belay can be given if the brake strand is occasionally let go? Yes, using "classic" Petzl-approved belay method in the video.
To my knowledge all previous GriGri instructions specified that you must NEVER let go of the brake strand. If you are letting go of the brake strand then you are doing it wrong. The video mention specifically mentions reduced grip, not no grip during the 'classic' grigri style. Well, you're right about one thing. They've changed their instructions, which now only describe "method 2" in the video for feeding slack quickly. However, older versions of the instructions did say that it was permissible to use what they now call the "classic" method, and they did not show the index finger and thumb around the rope, as they seem to in the video. Keeping the index finger and thumb around the rope was a climber innovation. Here are Petzl's instructions for how to pay out slack quickly with a grigri from an old version of their website. Click on "Paying out slack with a grigri." This is what they advocated for years. Below is the relevant picture from the web page. Note the belayer's belay hand position in the third frame. It's not touching the rope. Jay With all your anal safety gripes you actually think that's a good or even acceptable idea? I have anal safety gripes? Name one. I've already answered the question of whether I think it's safe. If you want me to elaborate, try re-ask the question in a respectful manner. Jay How can a belayer be so inattentive that they fail to notice 50 feet of rope running through their hands?
Like this:
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 21, 2010, 11:58 AM)
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bill413
Sep 21, 2010, 12:27 PM
Post #84 of 142
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USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: How can a belayer be so inattentive that they fail to notice 50 feet of rope running through their hands? Like this:
No, then it isn't running through their hands - only the device. 
(This post was edited by bill413 on Sep 21, 2010, 12:28 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Sep 21, 2010, 1:09 PM
Post #86 of 142
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jt512 wrote: I_do wrote: jt512 wrote: patto wrote: jt512 wrote: In reply to: Do you suggest that a competent belay can be given if the brake strand is occasionally let go? Yes, using "classic" Petzl-approved belay method in the video.
To my knowledge all previous GriGri instructions specified that you must NEVER let go of the brake strand. If you are letting go of the brake strand then you are doing it wrong. The video mention specifically mentions reduced grip, not no grip during the 'classic' grigri style. Well, you're right about one thing. They've changed their instructions, which now only describe "method 2" in the video for feeding slack quickly. However, older versions of the instructions did say that it was permissible to use what they now call the "classic" method, and they did not show the index finger and thumb around the rope, as they seem to in the video. Keeping the index finger and thumb around the rope was a climber innovation. Here are Petzl's instructions for how to pay out slack quickly with a grigri from an old version of their website. Click on "Paying out slack with a grigri." This is what they advocated for years. Below is the relevant picture from the web page. Note the belayer's belay hand position in the third frame. It's not touching the rope. Jay With all your anal safety gripes you actually think that's a good or even acceptable idea? I have anal safety gripes? Name one. I've already answered the question of whether I think it's safe. If you want me to elaborate, try re-ask the question again in a respectful manner. Jay |
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captainstatic
Sep 21, 2010, 2:45 PM
Post #87 of 142
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I am in direct contact with the climber. He is going back to the doctor in three weeks and will then start PT so he should be back to climbing soon. Both he and the belayer openly admit that belayer error was the cause of the accident. I am trying to find out more details directly from them. What I have found out so far is that they were using a 10mm rope so rope diameter shouldn't have been an issue. The climber also thinks there was some friction through the device at some point in the fall. I will try to find out more details about the technique the belayer was using.
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drector
Sep 21, 2010, 2:56 PM
Post #88 of 142
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USnavy wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Gri Gri= Condom the consequences can be sever Its "severe" and "GriGri", noob...
If your going to correct someone and call them names, do a little research. Many stores online call it a Grigri and Petzl seems to only show it in all upper case as GRIGRI. Unless you have better evidence that your "GriGri" spelling is correct, STFU noob.
Dave
P.S. I'm just kidding about the STFU. I've just been waiting years to use that on someone.
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camhead
Sep 21, 2010, 3:05 PM
Post #89 of 142
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drector wrote: USnavy wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Gri Gri= Condom the consequences can be sever Its "severe" and "GriGri", noob... If your going to correct someone and call them names, do a little research. Many stores online call it a Grigri and Petzl seems to only show it in all upper case as GRIGRI. Unless you have better evidence that your "GriGri" spelling is correct, STFU noob. Dave P.S. I'm just kidding about the STFU. I've just been waiting years to use that on someone.
that's ok, everyone tells usnavy to stfu. he's kind of a fish in a barrel that way.
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spikeddem
Sep 21, 2010, 3:30 PM
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It's*
and comma goes inside quotation mark there.
Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing.
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blondgecko
Moderator
Sep 21, 2010, 11:53 PM
Post #92 of 142
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spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing.
Now those are fighting words.
... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now?
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Gmburns2000
Sep 21, 2010, 11:58 PM
Post #93 of 142
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blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now?
he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance.
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jt512
Sep 22, 2010, 12:01 AM
Post #94 of 142
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Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance.
That's only true in American English.
Jay
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Gmburns2000
Sep 22, 2010, 12:05 AM
Post #95 of 142
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jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay
relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know.
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jt512
Sep 22, 2010, 12:05 AM
Post #96 of 142
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know.
Huh?
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Gmburns2000
Sep 22, 2010, 12:10 AM
Post #97 of 142
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jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know. Huh?
we (americans) changed the language deliberately for a reason.
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majid_sabet
Sep 22, 2010, 5:55 AM
Post #98 of 142
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Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know. Huh? we (americans) changed the language deliberately for a reason.
As an American, I have the right to change the climbing English to make things easier and yes Mr Modz, we are still talking about GriGri.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Sep 22, 2010, 5:55 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Sep 22, 2010, 11:05 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know. Huh? we (americans) changed the language deliberately for a reason. As an American, I have the right to change the climbing English to make things easier and yes Mr Modz, we are still talking about GriGri.
that was an amazingly good sentence.
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jt512
Sep 22, 2010, 5:55 PM
Post #100 of 142
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Gmburns2000 wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: jt512 wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blondgecko wrote: spikeddem wrote: It's* and comma goes inside quotation mark there. Why would anyone ever correct majid on grammar? It's, like, his thing. Now those are fighting words. ... but seriously, can we try to get back on topic now? he's right, comma goes inside the quotes in this instance. That's only true in American English. Jay relevance? that other BS was changed for a reason ya know. Huh? we (americans) changed the language deliberately for a reason. As an American, I have the right to change the climbing English to make things easier and yes Mr Modz, we are still talking about GriGri. that was an amazingly good sentence.
"That" should be capitalized, along with the first word of every other sentence you've written. You're in no position to be a critic.
Jay
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