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oldguy53
Oct 18, 2012, 2:51 AM
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Not ready to hang it up yet?? One or two more years of climbing before giving away the gear. Now I got more time than muscle and looking for partners. bobo
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photonicgirl
Oct 18, 2012, 12:59 PM
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I'm keeping my gear, not too old to climb, just too old to climb with kids who don't believe in safety. Too bad you are in Indiana!
Jules
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gblauer
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Oct 18, 2012, 4:33 PM
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I am old and I started climbing late in life. I am training hard to keep improving. I don't intend to quit until I lose interest. I climb with three gentlemen; two in their 70's and one who is in his 80's.
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marc801
Oct 18, 2012, 5:05 PM
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gblauer wrote: I am old and I started climbing late in life.
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njrox
Oct 18, 2012, 5:17 PM
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gblauer wrote: I climb with three gentlemen; two in their 70's and one who is in his 80's.
That's awesome! I climbed with a guy in his 50s a couple of times. Cool dude with awesome stories and he was in tremendous shape.
I don't mind the youngsters. I'm 33 and a Father so I kinda prefer climbers my age, or at least climbers who are parents so they can understand the demands of having kids.
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dan2see
Oct 18, 2012, 6:06 PM
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marc801 wrote: gblauer wrote: I am old and I started climbing late in life. Define "old" and "late in life" please!
Fortunately for me, I don't know anybody who is "old" or "late in life".
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JimTitt
Oct 18, 2012, 6:08 PM
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gblauer wrote: I am old and I started climbing late in life. I am training hard to keep improving. I don't intend to quit until I lose interest. I climb with three gentlemen; two in their 70's and one who is in his 80's.
IŽd have stretched to "early mature" in your case!
Old is the generation that started climbing before mine.
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gblauer
Moderator
Oct 18, 2012, 6:27 PM
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Oh...do I have to?
Let's put it this way, I am well into my 50's! I started in my mid forties.
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marc801
Oct 18, 2012, 8:26 PM
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I started in college at 17. I'll turn 58 in December.
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stoneguy
Oct 19, 2012, 12:02 AM
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I hate the age question.. at least publicly.
I was passing for early fifties for a while, but pretty sure I'm older than you guys, and I just started climbing last year. Started leading trad in January. Was forced to do tread-mill cardio after a small heart attack so took this up instead.
Eat healthy is my suggestion (and climb of course) and hang in there.
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louBlissab
Oct 19, 2012, 12:25 AM
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There is no good reason to ever give-up climbing. There are many good reasons to continue climbing until the end.
Just have to eat correctly (advantage to vegetarians), live simply, do yoga, go the the gym and just get out there and climb.
One can always find reasons not to climb...work, family, health, weather, the list goes on and on. You have to fight hard to find the reasons to climb and they will out-weigh everything else.
A good day climbing trumps every other endeavor.
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naitch
Oct 19, 2012, 12:51 AM
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I've posted it before but my T-shirt says it all: "We don't stop climbing because we get old - we get old because we stop climbing.
61 and still improving
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louBlissab
Oct 19, 2012, 12:55 AM
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naitch wrote: "we get old because we stop climbing"
Nothing more needs to be said!
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guangzhou
Oct 19, 2012, 2:38 AM
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I know a couple of climbers in their 50s who climb 5.14 regularly. Pretty Sure Jim Donini is in his late 60s now. Still putting up FA in Patagonia. Climbs pretty hard too.
When I was in my 20s, people said you'll see when you're in your 30's, when I was in my 30's, they said wait till you're in your 40's, now in my 40s, people tell me to wait till I'm in my 50s.
Eat healthy, workout moderately not excessively, relax every now and than, and climb when ever yu get a chance.
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moose_droppings
Oct 19, 2012, 2:44 AM
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60 is so...
so..
so...
so close, only a couple weeks away.
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wivanoff
Oct 19, 2012, 12:22 PM
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59 here.
Next October will be the 40th anniversary of my first lead at the Gunks. Belly Roll - LOL. I should lead it again on the same date
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Dip
Oct 19, 2012, 12:55 PM
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curt wrote: njrox wrote: That's awesome! I climbed with a guy in his 50s a couple of times. Cool dude with awesome stories and he was in tremendous shape... Really? That old eh? Did he park his walker at the base of the crag or just clip it to his swami?  Curt
Seriously. Did you have to check him out of the old folks home or was he given permission to leave on his own?
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njrox
Oct 19, 2012, 1:34 PM
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Dip wrote: curt wrote: njrox wrote: That's awesome! I climbed with a guy in his 50s a couple of times. Cool dude with awesome stories and he was in tremendous shape... Really? That old eh? Did he park his walker at the base of the crag or just clip it to his swami? Curt Seriously. Did you have to check him out of the old folks home or was he given permission to leave on his own?
No, I picked him up from his house. But our start was delayed because he lost his bifocals and had trouble putting his dentures in.
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troutboy
Oct 19, 2012, 4:04 PM
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njrox wrote: Dip wrote: curt wrote: njrox wrote: That's awesome! I climbed with a guy in his 50s a couple of times. Cool dude with awesome stories and he was in tremendous shape... Really? That old eh? Did he park his walker at the base of the crag or just clip it to his swami? Curt Seriously. Did you have to check him out of the old folks home or was he given permission to leave on his own? No, I picked him up from his house. But our start was delayed because he lost his bifocals and had trouble putting his dentures in.
Well played! Now nwhere are my reading glasses....?
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rgold
Oct 20, 2012, 7:43 AM
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I've forgotten how many times I concluded I was "old." I think the first time when I was 30, because that was the age when my generation had proclaimed you were no longer trustworthy. I'm now more than double that original milestone, which means, I suppose, that the last shreds of trustworthiness have now doubly vanished. I can report, from the other side, that trustworthiness is not all its cracked up to be, and in many ways it is a relief to be rid of it.
I've just finished my 55th year of climbing. I'm a month shy of 69, the same age as Donini, without, however, anything even close to his accomplishments. Still, I've been at it a long time, going back to a guided ascent of the Grand in 1957.
My latest evidence for getting old is that last February I had the first climbing injury that actually stopped me from climbing---a ruptured ACL (and torn meniscus) that required an operation and initiated a year-long rehab process that has kept me away from climbing for seven months, my longest layoff ever.
There are other hints that I am no longer twenty; both time and space prevent me from enumerating them here, I'm sure to the relief of whatever audience there is for such dour musings. So I'll just mention one thing.
I've been a long-time Gunks local, and although I try to keep things fresh by doing routes I haven't done before (the Gunks, meaning the entire region and not just the Trapps, is vast) it is inevitable that I repeat some routes. Every now and then when I do this, I'll touch a hold and feel an intense sense of déja vue. The hold, which is just the same as it was fifty years ago, brings back a flood of memories and sensations, a momentary time-machine transport back to another era for me and the world.
The sensation lasts but an instant, but is invariably followed by a much longer-lasting sense of connection, to something that is timeless, that was there long before me and will be there long after me, but which has received and in some way reciprocated my presence, and in which I feel some aspect of my spirit will reside forever.
This is part of what it means to be an old climber, and by old I mean old enough to be able to look down the road and realize that the end is no longer unimaginably far away. Climbing becomes a lot more than tick lists and route difficulties, important as they may have been in their time. It becomes part of a connection to the world and an integration with those parts of it that are permanent. Young people do not think of such things, and I suppose plenty of old people do not either. But I feel fortunate to have come all this way and still get grab that little crimp---the same little crimp---I seized with such naive enthusiasm so many years ago.
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naitch
Oct 20, 2012, 10:46 AM
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^^^^^ +1
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oldguy53
Oct 20, 2012, 12:41 PM
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ELOQUENT and ELUCIDATE. A mear pup I am at 61. The recent motorcycle/auto accident and operations have lower my chi . Sing and dance as long as I can , then play an instrument. Gracefully surrender the things of youth.
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satch
Oct 22, 2012, 5:20 PM
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Well said Rich. The only thing I would disagree with you on is the "integration with those parts of it that are permanent". With age, I have just gotten more comfortable with the impermanence of things.
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climbingaggie03
Oct 22, 2012, 6:10 PM
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I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it.
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Wade308
Oct 22, 2012, 6:23 PM
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I refuse to get old.
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gunkiemike
Oct 22, 2012, 8:54 PM
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A ripe old 56 TODAY.
Entered my first ever climbing comp yesterday and didn't embarrass myself too badly.
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robdotcalm
Oct 22, 2012, 9:27 PM
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Time to contribute, since I think that at 82 Im the oldest active-climber on rc.com. So far this year Ive had a decent season in Colorado and Wyoming having climbed outdoors 52 days and am looking forward to an upcoming trip to Joshua Tree. (Ive climbed a few days in the gym but dont keep track of that). With 6 grandkids and their 4 sets of parents local, family activities and social obligations limit my climbing time (Im not complaining, just describing; Im glad to have the family close by). At my age Im grateful that Im still walking ( as so many of my contemporaries have problems with that) and have a sense of thankfulness each time I climb that Im still able to. If you had asked me 20 years ago, if Id still be climbing when I was 82, I would have said, Probably, not. In terms of probabilities that was a good answer. A lot of luck is involved in being able to stay active as one gets old. I take my climbing seasons one at a time. I look forward to climbing next year and thats as far ahead as I can contemplate.
Yesterday, reminded me of my luck. For a starter, my wife and I attended the third funeral in a month for one of our contemporaries. In the evening, we went to a concert and met two more of our contemporaries. One was using cane for his hip. The second recently had spinal surgery for degenerated disks. Lots of hardware installed. This fellow always has kept in good shape--six months ago, he had hiked a 14er. No injury involved in disks deterioration.
I started climbing when I was 41 so that Ive now been climbing for 41 years--half my life. I currently lead trad 5.8 (sometimes having to work at it a bit) and follow 5.9--from slab to wide cracks. This is a noticeable decrease from what I could do years ago. For example, this summer I followed a 5.8 that I thought was hard. In 1991, I on-sight soloed the route and thought it was easy. If youre going to keep climbing as you get really old, say past 75 or possibly 70, youll have to enjoy doing easier climbs. Ive know a couple of climbers, who, when their abilities started declining, no longer enjoyed the sport and stopped. Thats not been the case for me. I enjoy being challenged, and the easier climbs now challenge me.
My upper body strength has stayed OK, at body weight 135 I do chinups with 50 lbs in a backpack. There is a significant decline in my maximal aerobic capacity so that Im slow on approaches and appreciative when my younger partners (well, they are all younger than me) will carry most of the gear. Alpine routes are no longer feasible because of my slowness and even some crags, e.g., Sundance at Lumpy Ridge, now seem too far to be enjoyable. Fortunately, the places that I climb the most Eldorado, Vedauwoo, and Joshua Tree have predominately short approaches with little elevation gain. And, of course, when youre old, recovery time takes longer.
My wife doesnt climb, but we enjoy hiking and weight lifting together. Ive lifted weights regularly for 60 years. There have been many discussions on rc.com on whether or not lifting is helpful for climbing, and Im not entering into how it applies to younger climbers. I know that if I didnt lift, I would lack the sturdiness to climb and the muscle mass needed for strength. Also, high-repetition medium weight squats keep my knees functional including an arthritic, off-injured left knee. Hiking, even with a heavy pack, does not provide the same therapeutic benefit. I have a nice 425 sq. ft. lifting room at home (enclosed patio). All my lifting is done with free weightsno machines.
This summer and last, my partners and I managed to put in a few first ascents at Vedauwoo. (http://www.mountainproject.com/...playground/105972860) Sarah Palins Drill, Day of Wrath, Panhandle, Barbed Wire. (From the description of Barbed Wire, there may not be a second ascent.) To finish leading it (onsight, ground up), I removed all my gear except for my harness, squiggled up the exit crack and then retrieved the gear with a sling when I got to the belay stance on shelf. Fun stuff for an old man. (There are some nasty comments about me on the MP page, but at my age its satisfying to still be able to create controversy.)
Attached image is getting ready for another day's work at Vedauwoo
Cheers,
Rob.calm
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Oct 22, 2012, 9:43 PM)
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gblauer
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Oct 23, 2012, 1:29 AM
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It would be an honor to climb with you and rgold.
I am at the gunks...Rgold will you climb with me sometime?
Colorado may be more problematic but feasible if you would climb with me.
I would like to climb well into my 80's as well.
Take good care!
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oldrnotboldr
Oct 23, 2012, 12:17 PM
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Wow, what a bunch of old farts! Last I knew (last year I think- I forget) I was pushing 59. Used to climb pretty hard (5.10, 5.12). Last five years or so I do more bouldering and low grade stuff. There are a few others around up north here that still climb, a couple of them climb 5.9 or better.
If you ever get north of Ind. look us up. There is still plenty of unclimbed crags in northern Ontario. Some pretty easy to 5.12 or better!
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TradEddie
Oct 23, 2012, 2:12 PM
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I was beginning to feel that impending doom as I reached my late thirties, but one day up in New Paltz, Gail mentioned that "some old guy" was giving a slide show in R&S, that "old guy" was Fred Beckey, who qualifies as old by any measure. After that show I realized that I was still very young, and could never use age as an excuse.
TE
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oldguy53
Oct 24, 2012, 1:46 AM
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It seems no matter what time , no matter what age THE ADVENTURE CONTINUES. I've gain new insight, some knowledge, perhaps wisdom. thanks to all. bobo
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jorgegonzalez
Oct 24, 2012, 4:09 AM
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I'm 57 and my first lead was the Bastille Crack in 1974 with a 16 year old Lenny Coyne. Slowing down a bit but still lead 5.9 trad, and although I'm dicey on steep climbs, I'm still a monster on slab and cracks.
I ride an Andalusian stallion most mornings and regularly ride a bike, ski often in the winter, and am now a soccer coach/intermediate referee (U-14/16).
I once had a partner older than myself who kept putting off a planned climb in the Sierras. When I confronted his lack of dedication to the objective he told me: "The difference between you and I is you see all those climbs you haven't done and still hope to do them. I see the same climbs and wish I had already done them."
(This post was edited by jorgegonzalez on Oct 24, 2012, 4:12 AM)
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JohnCook
Oct 24, 2012, 1:04 PM
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63, still leading English E2 outdoors, F7a+ indoors. Only climb routes that look fun. Total mileage since January when I returned to the UK from USA approx 55 000ft of routes from 5.4 onwards. I have promised my mother that I will stop climbing when I grow up! Hence I still do stupid childish things. And intend to continue climbing until they are screwing the lid down! (Even then I may try to climb out of the box)
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yanqui
Oct 24, 2012, 1:59 PM
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I'm 54 going on 55, with more than 30 years of climbing experiences around the world, but after reading through this thread, I've decided I'm still too young to have anything relevant to say. Maybe I'll post back, again, after I've climbed another 20 or 30 years. Maybe then I'll actually have something of interest to add.
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robdotcalm
Oct 24, 2012, 3:40 PM
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gblauer wrote: It would be an honor to climb with you and rgold. I am at the gunks...Rgold will you climb with me sometime? Colorado may be more problematic but feasible if you would climb with me. I would like to climb well into my 80's as well. Take good care!
Let me know when you're planning on coming to Colorado. I look forward to climbing with you.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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rgold
Oct 24, 2012, 6:54 PM
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Sure Gail! Be warned that I'm still rehabbing a torn ACL and am coming off a 7-month layoff, so have to tone it down a bit, but other than that I'd be happy climb with you.
Like you, I'm in awe of RobDot. In addition to climbing, pullups with 37% of bodyweight added is mighty impressive. I don't even know if I'll live into my 80's, but if so I hope I can still climb, and being able to do any kind of pullup would be nice too...
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sharensmith
Oct 25, 2012, 4:53 AM
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I just keep my gears well and inspect them before using.
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oldguy53
Oct 25, 2012, 12:43 PM
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robdotcalm---- Are you still doing routes like the South Face of the Petit Grepon?? I finished the Standard route 11 years ago and have been stormed off the South Face. I would like to take care of unfinished business. I need a carrot in front of my face to keep my training on track. Possible???????? bobo
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jgill
Oct 25, 2012, 6:53 PM
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Rob and Rich,
Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight.
Long may you run . . . !
My best to you both,
John
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robdotcalm
Oct 25, 2012, 7:39 PM
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rgold wrote: Sure Gail! Be warned that I'm still rehabbing a torn ACL and am coming off a 7-month layoff, so have to tone it down a bit, but other than that I'd be happy climb with you. Like you, I'm in awe of RobDot. In addition to climbing, pullups with 37% of bodyweight added is mighty impressive. I don't even know if I'll live into my 80's, but if so I hope I can still climb, and being able to do any kind of pullup would be nice too...
Rich,
Thanks for your kind comments, which are encouraging and appreciated.
I had a prosthetic ACL installed (1991) and then uninstalled (2010).The picture shows me with the uninstalled tibia screw after the 2010 surgery. Recovery in both cases was OK. Pretty much back to normal after a few months. Hope your knee works OK and good climbing.
Rob.calm
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Oct 25, 2012, 7:43 PM)
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Syd
Oct 25, 2012, 8:16 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it.
Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
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Syd
Oct 25, 2012, 8:25 PM
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robdotcalm wrote: Time to contribute, since I think that at 82 ... Fantastic ! Congratulations on being such an inspiration. I can see the only reason for ever slowing down is injury. As we get older, we heal slower and gain a growing list of medical problems. I've often wondered what age will be my peak ? It's obviously very different for different people.
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climbingaggie03
Oct 25, 2012, 9:01 PM
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Syd wrote: climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it. Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
Honestly, yes, it's more like 5.7, but I can top rope 5.9 sometimes
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budman
Oct 25, 2012, 9:40 PM
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I don't worry too much about getting old except the fear of forgetting my children's names and things like that. Had the ultimate complement from a 5 year old at The Ice Cream Parlor this past weekend. After climbing with her and giving her a belay lesson while her parents climbed together she proceeded to give me a test. I asked what it was for and she replied to see if I could stay and play with them. Passed with flying colors, was allowed to stay and climb and invited to dinner. I had not met her or her parents before, friends of a friend.
Possibly in 10 years or so she will be climbing 12's at the creek and inviting me to belay and enjoy a top rope.
90% of life is showing up. So with that I'll be in Potrero again this winter. No new routes this year unless you bring the bolts and haul the gear to the base. Otherwise I'll be available to climb and just enjoy the climbing this year.
Mental activity I hear is good for the brain. So I graduated high school in 69, you do the math. Moab is getting harder and harder for me to climb consistently at a 5.10 level. Going home to the Gunks is always an option to climb high quality climbs at any level. Wish the weather was as good there as it is here.
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oldguy53
Oct 25, 2012, 11:02 PM
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instead of the math i'll just say i'm a 69 'er too. Roosevelt High . Moab and Gunks you got it made. bobo
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dan2see
Oct 26, 2012, 3:17 AM
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budman wrote: ... 90% of life is showing up ...
Yeah.
Sometimes I think the young guys are a bunch of egoistic twerps and I really don't want to spend half the day in the car with them. Anyway I hate mornings. And rain.
But then I bite my tongue and just go along. And of course those guys are actually a lot of fun to share the day's adventures with. I always end up having fun.
That is a lesson I've had to learn: Just show up, and the fun takes care of itself.
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hugepedro
Oct 26, 2012, 3:45 AM
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Daaaaang! I thought I was old, but in this thread I'm a punk of 45! Hahaha, suckit, geezers!
30 years in the game. My rock climbing probably peaked 10 years ago, but I still have my eye on my biggest big mountain prize. Unfortunately, my torn ACL and MCL are going to delay that a bit. Wait a minute, does that mean I'm getting old?
I had no idea some of you guys were this old though. I might have to change my sig.
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havard
Oct 26, 2012, 5:14 AM
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Syd wrote: climbingaggie03 wrote: I'm 31 and I can still climb 5.9, I know it won't last forever, but maybe for another couple of years I'll be able to enjoy it. Are you kidding ? "Still climb 5.9" ? I'm still improving at 64. I thought I'd plateaued until I bought a hangboard a couple of years back. I'm close to doing a 5.12a clean and my goal is a 5.12c. I think I'd read about a guy 59 doing 5.13d.
Syd, you have no idea how this is inspiering me! I was well into my 5.11 trad climbs when I was shut down due to a bad shoulder two years ago. IŽm finally recovering enough to start climbing again, and you still improving tells me IŽve lost nothing! Thanks, man!
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jeff59
Oct 26, 2012, 4:42 PM
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Had to post another comment from the 69 year old contingent-- just keep getting out-- I've had an torn ACL repaired (ski injury) and both hips are now titanium (over use/abuse/arthritis)-- still teach alpine & telemark skiing 70 days/year, guide rock and ice (slow on approaches) and regularly lead 5.9 trad and occasionally 5.10. If I could lose 20 lbs without totally giving up beer, I'd climb as hard as I ever did in my forties, but I can't seem to convince myself that it's worth it-- still having fun EVERY day out! Jeff
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Syd
Oct 27, 2012, 3:17 AM
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havard wrote: Syd, you have no idea how this is inspiering me! I was well into my 5.11 trad climbs when I was shut down due to a bad shoulder two years ago. IŽm finally recovering enough to start climbing again, and you still improving tells me IŽve lost nothing! Thanks, man!
Thank you havard. As you get older, your list of injuries and ailments will keep growing. It's just a matter of finding ways to deal with it. 6 years ago I was told I needed a hip replacement. I was told there was no cure and the pain would only get worse. Anyway, my wife and I developed a therapy and I'm now pain free. I'd even thought metal hips would mean the end of climbing until I read Jeff59's post !
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moose_droppings
Oct 27, 2012, 3:59 AM
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jgill wrote: Rob and Rich, Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight. Long may you run . . . ! My best to you both, John
With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill?
Still bouldering/climbing?
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marc801
Oct 27, 2012, 1:04 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: jgill wrote: Rob and Rich, Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight. Long may you run . . . ! My best to you both, John With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill? Still bouldering/climbing?
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jgill
Oct 28, 2012, 11:31 PM
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moose_droppings wrote: jgill wrote: Rob and Rich, Great to hear you are staying very active, fighting the good fight. Long may you run . . . ! My best to you both, John With respect, how old are you now Mr. Gill? Still bouldering/climbing?
http://www.youtube.com/...ed&v=7XklZ40FGgs
;>)
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Syd
Oct 28, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Love it John. Fantastic. I have personal experience with arthritis and know how painful it can be. Is it osteo arthritis ?
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binrat
Oct 29, 2012, 12:26 AM
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And all my climbing partners call me "oldman". I'm a young pup at 53 around you gentleman. Only bad part about my age, finding someone who is happy climbing 5.fun (5.10 and below)
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Syd
Oct 29, 2012, 3:45 AM
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jgill wrote: Yes, but probably due to still ring moves done many decades ago rather than climbing.
John, I think there's a lot more to osteo arthritis that doctors know. I have it in the hips. I was supposed to get a hip replacement 6 years ago. (I'm 64). Doctors assured me it would only get worse and nothing could be done. My wife checked the X-rays with another doctor and he warned her about marrying me. I figured I'm very fit and healthy, bone regenerates itself every 7 years or so, so what's going on ? I thought that tight muscles may be inhibiting blood flow to the joint. 4 months with a physio and it just got worse. I thought that massage around the lower spine might help. It worked ! An hour a day of very hard and very painful massage from my wonderful wife, turned it around. I'm now pain free. Now she massages twice a week to maintain it. I still have no idea what makes it tighten so much but I can still climb without problems.
There may be a way massage could help you.
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donald949
Oct 29, 2012, 5:55 PM
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Awsome stories.
With any luck I'll whip the kids here at work into a climbing trip this Vets day. RR/Josh are in the discussion.
Don, 47.
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oldguy53
Oct 29, 2012, 7:53 PM
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7 years ago at El Dorado Canyon I looked around to notice that I was by far the oldest one . Other places same thing. I've even heard a 24 year old lamenting that he got into climbing so late in life. I may aim a little lower , but i'm still in the game. bobo
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jeff59
Oct 29, 2012, 9:11 PM
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Since I started climbing 48 years ago at 21, I've burned through several generations of climbing partners--they've plateaued and lost interest, married and lost interest, had kids and lost time or interest, got new jobs and decided they didn't have time, etc. ,etc.-- in that time , I've plateaued, advanced, regressed, been married for 42 years (still happily) fathered and raised an outdoor loving daughter, stayed in one job for 37 years, retired, recovered from several injuries/surgeries and had to find new climbing partners every 5 years or so. Call me crazy but I've never felt like giving it up-- I can't do alpine climbs with big approaches fast enough anymore to avoid a bivvy, either before, during or after, but I still get out on rock or ice 60 + days /year and ski 70+ days /year. My regular partners range from 35 to 4 years younger than me, and the older ones are the most active! If it's still fun, do it! If not, find something else that IS fun and do that! Climb to ski, Ski to live, Live to climb seems a good adage to me.
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dwv16
Oct 30, 2012, 12:27 AM
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In reply to: Even a bad day climbing...
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billcoe_
Oct 30, 2012, 4:09 AM
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Syd wrote: ... I have it in the hips. I was supposed to get a hip replacement 6 years ago. (I'm 64). Doctors assured me it would only get worse and nothing could be done. My wife checked the X-rays with another doctor and he warned her about marrying me. I figured I'm very fit and healthy, bone regenerates itself every 7 years or so, so what's going on ? I thought that tight muscles may be inhibiting blood flow to the joint. 4 months with a physio and it just got worse. I thought that massage around the lower spine might help. It worked ! An hour a day of very hard and very painful massage from my wonderful wife, turned it around. I'm now pain free. Now she massages twice a week to maintain it. I still have no idea what makes it tighten so much but I can still climb without problems. There may be a way massage could help you.
Send her over this way, I've had to change my diet and it worked, but am always welcome to having your wife do the rub thing to me....hmmm, that doesn't sound quite right. Congrats anyway, she's clearly a keeper.
You old dudes are an inspiration for when i get old. (57 now) Wow.
Wow. Thanks for sharing all that.
(This post was edited by billcoe_ on Oct 30, 2012, 4:22 AM)
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Smythie
Nov 6, 2012, 1:58 AM
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Oh this is such a fantastic thread! I'm almost 39 and only started bouldering around two years ago with a 6 month hiatus in the middle to recover from a broken humerous (from snowboarding, not climbing  ). I love climbing, but I do feel like an old bird sometimes when I'm surrounded by youngsters in the gym. Well now, that's an end to my old-bird mentality after reading all your inspiring posts. With any luck, I've got decades ahead of me yet...
(This post was edited by Smythie on Nov 6, 2012, 1:59 AM)
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oldsalt
Nov 6, 2012, 4:11 AM
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I quit climbing over a year ago, when I began having memory problems. I parked at the base of the tower at Currahee, and hauled my gear to the top of the climbing area. When I reached for my rope bag, I discovered that it was still in my car. I decided that if I could forget my rope, I could forget to tie-in or maintain a belay. So I went home.
Looking back, I learned that I was seriously sleep deprived, due to bad habits involving caffeine and lack of sleep. I was actually diagnosed with Alzheimer's Disease before I figured out how to make the needed changes. No caffeine after noon, earlier to bed.
Next, I had to go back to the neurologist and convince him it was not AD. We both did a lot of research. I learned that I had had Polio at age 4, and then that very few polio survivors ever develop AD. It is a function of a shared gene. So what was my problem?
I learned that my memory problems could have been the result of two transient ischemic attacks 10 years ago. I shared this with my doc, also. He agreed that it could be that and promised to do more research.
A few weeks ago, we met and he presented his diagnosis: Migraines.
I had painful ones as a child, but since my 30s only rare events without pain. The pain free aspect masked the presence of the migraine attacks. I packed up my gear and went to Sand Rock (Alabama) this past Saturday. The place was jammed; every route had a line in front of it.
I hitched a ride from a Boy Scout leader and sent my first top rope route since the day at Currahee. Now that I know I am not dying early, I had to get back out and actually take the controlled risk that makes my living worthwhile. History: caught in the rip surfing at Chun's Reef (North Shore Oahu) in 1969. Survived the sinking of a 40' power cruiser in the Gulf Stream in '74. New hip in 2008, followed 18 months later by running the Atlanta Half-marathon.
A year of facing a slow death, burdening my family, my wife's cancer and marvelous recovery, new grand kids, new job that I love. What contrasts. What a life. I'm not a good climber, but I'm apparently a decent survivor. I AM ALIVE!
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mikegillam
Nov 6, 2012, 11:51 PM
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I am always looking for 5.fun partners. Located in Ohio, but am up for weekend trips to the Red, Adk, etc... Also, mountaineering and ice climbing is always a big interest! Almost forgot, 51 and getting younger by the day! Heading to the Red this weekend!
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sandstone
Nov 7, 2012, 12:53 AM
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Been at it since I was about 16. Got a degree, raised a family, had a career or two, so I was never even close to being a climbing bum. I never wanted to be (well maybe a little).
I'm 54 now. Never hit any big numbers, never plan to. I just love the simple joy of it all. The feel of the stone, the thunk of my ice axe, the click of a biner, the knowing grin of a partner halfway up a pitch -- it never loses its magic.
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robdotcalm
Nov 7, 2012, 4:54 AM
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Old Salt, A while back we communicated about going climbing and you mentioned the troubles you were experiencing. Its great to hear that your problems have resolved and youre climbing again. Congratulations on pushing the doctor to get a more accurate diagnosis. Come to Colorado next year, and we can climb where therell be no waiting in line.
The memory problems you had do not seem at all like Alzheimers. People with AD do not think clearly and would not draw logical conclusions about what forgetting a rope means.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
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EdBustamante
Nov 7, 2012, 2:03 PM
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HELLO RICH
You may not remember me but you inspired me into a life time of climbing, I bought my firs eb's from the trunk of you car in the late 70 early 80's you guided my brother Mike and I. My first day climbing ended with bonnies roof one thing thayt stuck with me all these years was the traverse and me saying I don't think this is possiable but I was talked thru it an remained calm that same fealing is what we all look for and if that is still there there is no reason to quit.
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oldguy53
Nov 7, 2012, 8:24 PM
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I'm in Indy. and looking for ' older partners ' for next spring . Does the RED work for you in April?? bobo
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oldsalt
Nov 7, 2012, 11:00 PM
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John, I am honored to be sharing thoughts with a legend. You mentioned in your web bio that you enjoy soloing. Is it age or what (can't be wisdom)? In the 9 years I have been climbing, I have done nearly twice as many solo climbs as belayed, including sport and gear leads.
I'm not talking 5.10, but peace and happiness is out there in the solitude. The best times were being the only human at Table Rock, Yonah, or Sand Rock. I have, of course, gotten in over my head once or twice. Taking responsibility for yourself and getting out of crap you got yourself in is soul satisfying.
Once, I got 20' up a Table Rock route, but it was not the 5.6 I thought it was. It was an .11 with the first bolt 10' to my right. I had been focused on finding holds and had not noticed that I had wandered. I could only down climb, as the way over to the bolt looked like polished glass. Funny what you can do when you have to do it.
I do carry a cell phone, and check in and out with family. It's the only way my wife would tolerate my trips.
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mikegillam
Nov 8, 2012, 12:15 PM
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The Red works in April. Weekends are best, could add a Friday or Monday depending on dates. Also works in May, June...
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oldguy53
Nov 8, 2012, 8:12 PM
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Mike ( and other olders ) Please reply to bobo44561@hotmail.com I 'll need your email address. to plan trips. bobo
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rgold
Nov 9, 2012, 7:37 PM
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Ed, great to hear from you. Helping to open the gates of the climbing garden for others is what guiding is all about, and even though I am long retired from that profession, I often wonder what some of my clients are up to. I'm so glad to hear you are still enjoying the sport!
Richard
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jgill
Nov 10, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Thank you, oldsalt. I retired from bouldering in 1987 at the age of fifty after an arm injury. After recovering I went back to easy-moderate soloing that I had been doing since I started climbing in 1953-54 ( a solo scamper up the east face of Longs Peak in 1954). I continued soloing to the age of seventy, when my shoulder arthritis began to really limit what I could do. For about three years after that I did traverses at city park, then quit and focused on keeping up my strength with bodyweight exercises, which I still do. But those 15-20 years I soloed after 1987 were the most enjoyable of my entire climbing career. The flow, the immersion in the task, the aerobic aspect, the Zen-like experience in general are pleasant and permanent memories from that time period. (I didn't miss the intensity of bouldering at all!)
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healyje
Nov 11, 2012, 10:33 AM
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I'm still at it and had hoped to take a shot at the Casual Route for my 60th this past August, but climbing ended up totally shut down for me this year due to work and a medical crisis in the immediate family. But reading all your amazing tales of perseverance, comebacks and working to stay in shape and healthy off the rock is totally inspiring to me to keep at it at whatever capacity and level I can for as long as I can. Thanks for sharing those stories and who knows who they'll inspire a decade from now.
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oldguy53
Nov 22, 2012, 5:50 PM
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Are you talking about the Diamond ?
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healyje
Nov 22, 2012, 9:14 PM
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Yes, maybe next summer...
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rhei
Nov 23, 2012, 3:54 AM
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Thanksgiving Day.
Great comments here about having years of experiences and the resounding consensus that the game can continue if you want it to. My two cents? Find the level at which you enjoy the sport and find the people who are as enthusiastic about it as you.
In that respect, this was a banner year for me as I found that enthusiasm both in old and new climbing partners. As mentioned earlier, a steady attrition of partners seems to be part of what comes with staying in the sport for decades. Faced with that problem while living in the east this autumn, I started swinging leads with a twenty year old who is relatively new to trad leading. Within another season, hell be working routes much harder than Ill care to climb, but for the past few months Ive enjoyed being propelled along with the raw enthusiasm of someone who has yet to discover their limits. And yet sometimes reunions happen and click, as was the case in July when I visited a friend that Id taught ropework to forty years ago. We ended up putting in a new line on the east side of the biggest peak in Idaho, summiting with 83 years of combined climbing experiences and 122 years age between the two of us. Yeah, Im thankful for all that. And still smiling about it all, too.
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guangzhou
Nov 23, 2012, 7:24 AM
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jgill wrote: Thank you, oldsalt. I retired from bouldering in 1987 at the age of fifty after an arm injury. After recovering I went back to easy-moderate soloing that I had been doing since I started climbing in 1953-54 ( a solo scamper up the east face of Longs Peak in 1954). I continued soloing to the age of seventy, when my shoulder arthritis began to really limit what I could do. For about three years after that I did traverses at city park, then quit and focused on keeping up my strength with bodyweight exercises, which I still do. But those 15-20 years I soloed after 1987 were the most enjoyable of my entire climbing career. The flow, the immersion in the task, the aerobic aspect, the Zen-like experience in general are pleasant and permanent memories from that time period. (I didn't miss the intensity of bouldering at all!)
Keeping up your strength with body weight exercise. Like this very inspirational video.
http://www.youtube.com/...ed&v=7XklZ40FGgs
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satch
Nov 27, 2012, 2:09 AM
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Hey old guy - I'm at the New. Let me know if you're interested in a trip down here this Spring. That is if we can remember what we planned.
If I live a couple more years, I may achieve my life-long goal of becoming a climbing bum. My wife and I are planning a 12 month climbing trip. Remember all those trips where you had to leave too soon? How fun would it be to go there and stay as long as you want? Any suggestions for older climbers (I'm 65)? Chamonix and the Pynerees are at the top of the list, but US and Canadian sites are open and exciting possibilities.
(This post was edited by satch on Nov 27, 2012, 2:23 AM)
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oldguy53
Nov 27, 2012, 2:50 AM
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I sure am .... For some reason I keep returning to Seneca. And the New was always put off until later. The RED is easy for me to get to and when faced with a hard decision like this one ,,,, why not do both or all three and go from there. bobo
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 4:11 AM
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Blue Mountains two hours due west of Sydney. Paradise. The rock you can see in this photo from Katoomba is about 3-5% of the available rock in that area. As far as the rock goes, think of a RRG / Eldo stacking in layers with the Eldo layers be quite a bit taller than the RRG layers.
(This post was edited by healyje on Nov 27, 2012, 7:49 AM)
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 8:11 PM
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The first pic is "the 3 sisters". Climbing is now banned there. Thousands of other routes nearby in the Bluies though. There's thousands more within 1 hour of Sydney centre. All sandstone but it's very varied.
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 8:22 PM
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You could spit in any direction there and do nothing but FAs the rest of your life.
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 8:28 PM
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There's a young bloke here in Sydney, Rod Wills, early 50's, and that's all he does ... wandering around the bush, bolting new routes. He doesn't climb so well now but just loves bolting. I've often wondered how he discovers some of his new climbing areas. He does a great job and one of the few safe bolters around.
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healyje
Nov 27, 2012, 8:54 PM
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I saw absolutely tons of trad FA potential when I was there. Need to get back while I'm still at it. It's also the only place I've been that's just like the hollows back home in Southern Illinois only about 100k times more rock.
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Syd
Nov 27, 2012, 9:10 PM
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I've never climbed trad but some sandstone can be quite weak, especially after rain. I'm always very wary of "chicken head" holds. Of course there's also some sandstone here that is beautifully fine grained and super hard.
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healyje
Nov 28, 2012, 12:03 AM
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Similar to back in the hollows of Southern Illinois, just taller, with more vertical expanses, and way more of it.
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Syd
Nov 28, 2012, 12:26 AM
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Top pic looks just like Gardens of Stone Nat Park (in the Bluies).
Lots of canyoning there and climbing nearby at Sahara Point and Wolgan.
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satch
Nov 28, 2012, 2:21 AM
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Looks vast. May have to give it a try. Thanks healyje.
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oldguy53
Dec 28, 2012, 3:55 AM
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The idea was to meet some older climbers that want another go at it . For a year, maybe two. bobo
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oldsalt
Dec 30, 2012, 3:54 PM
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Your Garden of the Gods images look exactly like Sandrock in Alabama. The rock closeups could actually have been taken there...you could not tell one from another. It's the molten look of extruded rock that is so similar. Both areas are quite different from other rock types.
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healyje
Dec 30, 2012, 11:13 PM
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I had no idea such an area existed in Alabama - may have to make a point of checking that out sometime soon. Thanks for the pointer.
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rolfr
Jan 20, 2013, 10:07 PM
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Ok enough talk. Who wants to go climbing. I am in Palm Springs till mid April. JT trad or Riverside sport. I will also be in Tucson from feb 02 till Feb 17. Cochise Stronghold or Mt Lemmon.
Me 61, leading easy 5.10 trad and 5.11 sport.
Most any day, looking to get out three times a week.
Rolf 3 six 0. seven 22 ten fifty six
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oldguy53
Jan 20, 2013, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2005
Posts: 115
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jan 24, 2013, 5:00 PM
Post #101 of 105
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Registered: Sep 12, 2008
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Me and the family will be on the Left Hand wall of Hairpin on either the 7th or more likely the 8th. Feel free to wave as you go past to harder climb, and have fun.
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matterunomama
Jan 29, 2013, 12:02 AM
Post #102 of 105
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Registered: Mar 11, 2005
Posts: 419
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troutboy wrote: njrox wrote: Dip wrote: curt wrote: njrox wrote: That's awesome! I climbed with a guy in his 50s a couple of times. Cool dude with awesome stories and he was in tremendous shape... Really? That old eh? Did he park his walker at the base of the crag or just clip it to his swami? Curt Seriously. Did you have to check him out of the old folks home or was he given permission to leave on his own? No, I picked him up from his house. But our start was delayed because he lost his bifocals and had trouble putting his dentures in. Well played! Now nwhere are my reading glasses....?
Seriously, my low vision is the biggest impediment. If I can't even see my plate to eat, seeing the cam in the crack is a problem. That, and the young ones looking at my hands and saying "wow....is that arthritis?"
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oldsalt
Feb 4, 2013, 4:56 PM
Post #103 of 105
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Registered: Jan 19, 2004
Posts: 919
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About 7 years ago, after climbing outdoors for about 3 years with large-lens glasses, I got contacts. I had always sworn that I would never put anything in my eyes, but climbing was just not as much fun while struggling with spectacles.
I love my contacts, and they have made a real difference in my climbing. Old age is a b______, but I do consider the alternative.
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matterunomama
Feb 4, 2013, 8:37 PM
Post #104 of 105
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Registered: Mar 11, 2005
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oldsalt wrote: About 7 years ago, after climbing outdoors for about 3 years with large-lens glasses, I got contacts. I had always sworn that I would never put anything in my eyes, but climbing was just not as much fun while struggling with spectacles. I love my contacts, and they have made a real difference in my climbing. Old age is a b______, but I do consider the alternative.
I have contacts, which are hard ones I have had for 40 years. The hard lens gives me correction I can't get from soft contacts. The downside is a piece of grit/chalk etc hurts like a sumabitch. Unfortunately, I also am old and have presbyopia, so I wear reading glasses with my contacts! I can't wear bifocal contacts. Quite a conundrum.
My glasses work pretty well, correctly at all distances with the variable lenses, but they annoy me sliding around..I think what I should do is get some nice heavy nerd glasses and a retention cord. My lenses cannot be put into "sport frames".
Remember the kid with the thick glasses, picked last for sports? Not uncoordinated but comically clueless in ball sports? That was me. But you can copy my math homework.
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Syd
Feb 5, 2013, 12:07 AM
Post #105 of 105
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Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300
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Outdoors I use an old prescription that gives best vision at a few yards. Indoors I use multifocals. They both work well. -3.5 isn't so bad though.
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