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timstich
Mar 20, 2004, 12:55 PM
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In reply to: Denver to the Catslab - Anyone want to carpool? I have room for one - I'm planning on going to the biker bar at the intersection of 6 and 70 after we climb. I feel the need for some "Soft Tail Ale" - if you are still game and want to hitch a ride in a Jeep - give me a buzz 720-635-2825. I'm going to arrive at the Catslab around 0900. JD
Ah! I must check out this biker bar sometime. I'll be heading straight to play squash with Marketa after climbing. Been meaning to try the Rocky Flats Saloon, too. Convenient to Eldo and just plain in the middle of nowhere. But the Darkhorse on Baseline is where I'll be Sunday after climbing.
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zozo
Mar 20, 2004, 1:42 PM
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For everyone leaving from the Springs on sunday lets make it official. We will meet at the gym at 7:00. Hook up rides there and head out. If anyone needs directions to the gym pm me.
Whats it cost to get in this place?
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coclimber26
Mar 20, 2004, 2:11 PM
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if you just want to check the gym out for a day get with me, I have a bunch of passes. What do you guys plan on climbing in the garden today, It looks nice out.
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zozo
Mar 20, 2004, 2:20 PM
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In reply to: if you just want to check the gym out for a day get with me, I have a bunch of passes. What do you guys plan on climbing in the garden today, It looks nice out.
I meant Eldorado Canyon, isnt that a park?
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coclimber26
Mar 20, 2004, 2:36 PM
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I remember it being about $5
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bustinmins
Mar 21, 2004, 1:22 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: if you just want to check the gym out for a day get with me, I have a bunch of passes. What do you guys plan on climbing in the garden today, It looks nice out. I meant Eldorado Canyon, isnt that a park?
Eldo is a state park. The fee to get in is about 5-6 bucks. If you think you'll go to Eldo often - buy a season pass in the very back office in the park. The season passes are $55 this year and expire on 12/31/2004. They are NOT like the federal season passes which renew in the month that you purchased it.
I go to Eldo enough to warrant a season pass but you can also go to the many other state parks with that pass. If you can spare the dough and think you'll use it - help out your CO State Parks and buy the pass. The state park system is in a real financial crunch right now.
JD
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bustinmins
Mar 21, 2004, 1:25 AM
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Skycat, Crazyfingers and myself are going to meet in Eldo at the base of the BOMB at 0730. We're going to place some pro and play around....maybe climb something simple on the whale's tail as a warm up.
We'll either be on the west side of the whale's tail or at the base of the wind tower in the vicinity of "The Bomb" or about 20' to the right of the big boulder.
See the rest of you around 0900ish.
JD
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bustinmins
Mar 21, 2004, 1:31 AM
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I enjoyed getting together with the "group" today. The Catslab was fun and the company made it that much more enjoyable.
Have a great weekend if you don't join us in Eldo tomorrow.
JD
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timstich
Mar 21, 2004, 1:39 AM
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Sorry I blew out of there so suddenly. I heard from someone that it was already 2:00. When I got to the car, I noticed it was 1:30. See you guys in Eldo tomorrow.
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bustinmins
Mar 21, 2004, 1:46 AM
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In reply to: Sorry I blew out of there so suddenly. I heard from someone that it was already 2:00. When I got to the car, I noticed it was 1:30. See you guys in Eldo tomorrow.
No problem Tim. I looked around for you and someone said you had to bolt. Thanks for the belay and advice. See you tomorrow.
JD
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timstich
Mar 21, 2004, 1:54 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Sorry I blew out of there so suddenly. I heard from someone that it was already 2:00. When I got to the car, I noticed it was 1:30. See you guys in Eldo tomorrow. No problem Tim. I looked around for you and someone said you had to bolt. Thanks for the belay and advice. See you tomorrow. JD
A'ight. And I was wondering. Got any hairy flying in microburst stories? Flying has always fascinated and terrified me.
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zozo
Mar 21, 2004, 2:06 AM
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Looking forward to some good climbing tommorow. I climbed in the Garden today with 7 kids. Normally I dont mind, but today it drove me nuts. The garden was packed with tourists and dogs and blah, blah blah. Lets just say I plan on enjoying the heck out of tommorow.
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timstich
Mar 21, 2004, 2:07 AM
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In reply to: Hey, gang! Have fun in Eldo tomorrow! It was 60 degrees up here today, and just beautiful! Tim and Marketa, I'll scout out the b/c tomorrow and let you know conditions. I have a feeling things will be opening up quite early this year, as snowpack is dwindling rapidly. Can't wait to hit some of those beautiful Indian Peaks Wilderness passes with you! Or anyone else, for that matter. This is great, undiscovered country up here. There are some superb bouldering problems in Hell's Canyon, and excellent trad adventures throughout the region. And, hopefully best of all, mi casa, su casa. SKibs
Yeah! We are definitely in for that. We can handle hard packed snow at the moment, but would need to rent or borrow snow shoes. I told Marketa about staying the night over to get an early start.
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nthusiastj
Mar 21, 2004, 2:22 AM
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Hey gang, I will probably be rolling into Eldo at about 8 ish. I will meet you at the wind tower.
Jeremy
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elcommunisto
Mar 21, 2004, 4:14 AM
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I'll probably bowl in to Eldo around 0830. If anyone is in Boulder or Longmont and wants/needs a ride, give me a call at work (303.581.4224), since I'll be here until 0730. I'll need to leave around 2-2:30 to go home and get some sleep, though.
Look forward to seeing you guys tomorrow! The high tomorrow is supposed to be near 70, according to The Weather Channel.
-Josh
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bustinmins
Mar 21, 2004, 4:33 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Sorry I blew out of there so suddenly. I heard from someone that it was already 2:00. When I got to the car, I noticed it was 1:30. See you guys in Eldo tomorrow. No problem Tim. I looked around for you and someone said you had to bolt. Thanks for the belay and advice. See you tomorrow. JD A'ight. And I was wondering. Got any hairy flying in microburst stories? Flying has always fascinated and terrified me.
I've had a little experience with microbursts. Typically -the doppler radar picks up the microbursts when the wind starts to show a microburst signature. If you've never seen doppler radar in action on wind vectors and base reflectivity - you are missing a whole lot of interesting stuff. The doppler can obviously tell you if you have advancing or retreating wind. Well - advancing wind is colored green and the retreating winds show up various colors of the red spectrum. If you have an area of wind that is approaching and yet has rotation - part of that rotation or if the area has a downburst - that moves air in the opposing directions once it impacts the earth, thus changing its color and its signature. This sets off an alarm in the tower and aircraft that are arriving will receive microburst alerts with expected airspeed loss and altitude at which we can expect it. This isn't to provide us with penetration information but rather gives us an idea of the severity and stage of the microburts in question.
On one arrival in Denver last summer, I began a stabilized approach to a runway on a 3.0 glide path. At approximately 800-500 feet, the airplane started to balloon up for no apparent reason. Why is this a warning sign? Well, if a downburst of air impacts the earth, it turns into an upside down mushroom cloud that travels the surface and moves upward around its perimeter. The kicker is when you travel through a microburst, you'll be hit by the downdraft in very short order and basically just pushed into the ground. Then you fly out the other side of the burst(assuming you've made it) and then you fly through the outer part of the downburst - which will be a tailwind.
I"ll share more at the crag tomorrow....I think you are going? talk to you laer.
JD
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timstich
Mar 22, 2004, 1:13 AM
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Well, another even better climbing day for us on Wind Tower, despite the other parties competing for the routes. We didn't have to wait to climb, you just picked the route next to the one you had in mind. This was Marketa's first time climbing in Eldo, and she really loved the rock. We did West Overhang first, which now has a fallen tree right after the 5.7 start with some wire wrapped around it. The rest of pitch 1 goes at 5.4. We rapped at the small tree with 1000 loops of webbing on it. After that, we hopped on Boulder Direct and ran a full rope length to just before the big ledge with a boulder on it you squeeze underneath. There's a thick flake there with some nice cracks to make a belay. Continuing on up, we went though the rotten band with poor pro and made another belay on a large red ledge in the rotten rock. It was about 40 ft. the the ridgetop/summit from there for three pitches. Not too shabby.
On our way down the single rappel to the trail, we saw a rockslide coming down the ravine up the hill. It was pretty loud. The rocks traveled at least 400ft. before they settled into the scree. No one seemed to be the cause of the rockfall. It was spontaneous more or less. While we were up on the climb, we saw two unroped climbers downclimbing the east slabs of Redgarden. Man, it looked super spooky! To finish our day, we did P1 of Calypso and rapped from the two bolt anchor. Nice.
I'll let the other guys say what they climbed. Dave, we saw you at the base of the big boulder and that was it. Did you move on to another rock, maybe Whale's Tale? We missed you guys at the Dark Horse. Kyle got a pitcher to go with our food of hot wings, burgers, and fries. Frosty mugs of beer sure hit the spot after a sunny day. The pub is nice and quiet, too. They have an outdoor deck for summer just so you know.
So Lumpy Ridge has been brought up as the next destination. Shelf Road is also in there, but I heard there was some conflict with someone's schedule that wanted to go?
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reno
Mar 22, 2004, 1:24 AM
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Ya know, I was hoping to join you, but I was scheduled to work at 1400.
So I slept in till around 11am, and got up, brewed some Sumatra coffee, and began the "Time to face the day..." routine.
Then work called me at 1315: "You can take the day off... we've cancelled the shift."
So there I was, no work to do, and too late to make it to join everyone in Eldo.
*sigh*
Next time, perhaps.
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timstich
Mar 22, 2004, 1:31 AM
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Actually, we were there until 3:30, so you could have done something. Yeah, let us know if you can make Lumpy next weekend and what day, dood.
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zozo
Mar 22, 2004, 1:46 AM
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We had a group of Colorado Springers come up to Eldo today. Myself, Highabove, rltodd00 , and coclimber26. Our first climb was Boulder Direct and Larry lead that and went on past the first ledge and had to construct a nearly hanging belay. That was a real fun climb. Had to wait to rap for awhile. We had three parties up there.
Then we went around the Corner to Whales Tail I think and rltodd00 led a 5.4 (forget the name). A long vertical fun route. I was cleaning that climb and some guy was free soloing up the climb next to me. Highabove came over and smoked that thing quick. Welcome back to the game!
Im digging this multipitch stuff, we were talking on the way home about going back on sat and doing a three pitch 5.8 ( Forget the name ) and also heard something about a 5 pitch 5.6 5.7. Then maybe on sunday shelf or Lumpy, or the days could be reveresed.
I got to see and talk to Busty, and skycat and her boyfriend. Kyle and Jeremy for a bit then they started there climb. Another awesome day and alot of fun!
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zozo
Mar 22, 2004, 1:51 AM
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Hey Kyle did you get any pictures?
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zozo
Mar 22, 2004, 1:56 AM
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In reply to: Dave, we saw you at the base of the big boulder and that was it. Did you move on to another rock, maybe Whale's Tale? We missed you guys at the Dark Horse. Kyle got a pitcher to go with our food of hot wings, burgers, and fries. Frosty mugs of beer sure hit the spot after a sunny day. The pub is nice and quiet, too. They have an outdoor deck for summer just so you know.
Kyle was still 150 feet up when we left, we had a 1 1/2 drive back to the Springs. My poor dogs Bladder cant take much more than 9 to 10 hours! Hot wings and Burgers would have been pretty sweet. How's the pizza there. We have to make sure to hook up and do a climb next week. I think smaller parties was the way to got oday.
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bustinmins
Mar 22, 2004, 2:07 AM
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I will have to add my comments too - "It was a perfect day." The weather was a bit cool to begin with but really turned out to be a perfect day. Of course, the other half of the rock climbing community decided to join us on the wind tower but it was fun. I guess you just have to remember to rack your patience next to your cams. :)
Kelli, Derek(lurker) and Roxanne(lurker), thanks for joining me on "The Bomb". :) It was great seeing Jeremy, Kyle, Dave and meeting Larry. I hope we can all do it again sometime soon.
My plans are up in the air for next week. I think I'm going to be in town but I'm not sure. I'm not working but I may be snowshoeing or riding next weekend, at least one day. If I had to vote for a climbing spot for next weekend it would be Lumpy Ridge. One - its trad and I love trad, second I don't think I can climb anything at Shelf - since they all start around 7's. I'm game to try - as always. :) I'm interested in Eleven Mile Canyon too - I heard that area mentioned as well.
I don't know how I'll like South Platte since I couldn't trust my feet on that 8 at the catslab, however, I'm game to look at "Wally World" and "The 1911 route". These routes are both located on Skinner Mountain in the Platte. I guess we should put the Platte on THE LIST for next month or after it warms up a bit.
Well gang - it was fun and I look forward to teaming up with you all again soon...if not on a route at least at the pub when we wash back some frothy pints filled to the brim with the nectar of the gods.
Take care and enjoy your week.
Peace and happiness,
JD
PS. To the women who climbed RECON and then rapped over my head as I was doing the chimney on The Bomb - join this forum - please give me a PM. It was nice meeting you two as well and maybe someday we can bag a route together.
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bustinmins
Mar 22, 2004, 2:17 AM
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[quote="zozo"]
Then we went around the Corner to Whales Tail I think and rltodd00 led a 5.4 (forget the name). A long vertical fun route.
Route names you are looking for:
1. West Crack 5.2
2. West Dihedral 5.4
3. Clementine 5.5
I climbed the Dihedral last year and used "Cowbells" on nearly every placement. I had to stick one #1 Camalot into the flake at the crux. I'm all about doing this route with solely hexes - anyone want to join me?
Clementine is located 20 feet to the right of the dihedral. It climbs a crack that is located on the top of the arete that makes the right flank of the dihedral.
Both the West Dihedral and Clementine are Layton Kor routes. Kyle would probably love them - even if they are so easy. Kor was 6'6" and I think Kyle is close to or taller than him.
Take care,
JD
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coclimber26
Mar 22, 2004, 2:29 AM
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That lady that was rapping off the bomb was the "Bomb"...It was good meeting everyone and just getting outside and moving around on the rock on such a nice day! Every time I climb in Eldo it reminds me that it's my favorite place in the state to climb...Next time it's redgarden wall..I'm up for Shelf next Saturday if anyone's in..
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