I see some climbers run out routes by skipping clips or not placing pro at bomber placement opportunities and was wondering what the point was.

I see some climbers run out routes by skipping clips or not placing pro at bomber placement opportunities and was wondering what the point was.

I see some climbers run out routes by skipping clips or not placing pro at bomber placement opportunities and was wondering what the point was.

a couple weeks ago, my buddy got tired of messing with it, slapped in a black alien and pulled through the crux to run it out ~25 feet. pretty balzy but it kept the pump clock at bay, sometimes its harder to hang out and mess with gear than it is to just send.

Always thought that TRADITIONAL climbing involved the placement of gear on lead...
A runout bolted route is a runout sport route...Or no?

Did they developed all those routes ground up? I s that that makes them traditional? Or is the fact that thy're runout?

Euroford, unless you want to go the way of the Edsel, you might want to consider not running out a climb above a single piece of body weight pro.

-Jay

agreed. but where does the term 'when in doubt run it out' come from?

if you were stuck with a tricky placement at a pumpy stance and could only plug in a black alien, would it be better to risk actually testing that placement and spend more time faffing about with gear or would it be better to run it out to a better stance?

on the other hand, after pulling the rope i took my turn, having watched him lead it first and having followed him afterwords to clean i had a better game plan and set more better pro (we were also climbing with diffrent racks)...

i should also add, that despite the fall being very long, the fall factor would have been very low.

the alien was as bomber as could be, in a near perfect placement on very solid quartzite. if ever a situation existing for a success story of a huge whipper on a micro cam this was it.

okay, replace the word "plug in" and "slapped in" with "place" :roll:

anyways, the alien was frikin solid, anyways, who gives a s---! i don't need to justify my friends lead to you.

I always forget to clip in and my belay partner doesn't say anything either. I think he wants to see how far I'd go before I realize anything.

This is the same guy who traversed 50 feet without placing any pro so that when I seconded I had nothing to protect me from taking a giant swing into a rock column below.
It's interesting to climb with him.

Based on the last couple of threads I've seen you post in, I think you may be the next recipient of the MHR2000 Memorial Award Know-It-All Gumby Award.

-Jay

I don't think JT read GT's post.

...he can't help but make huge involving replies to my posts.

Some people call that "being helpful."

-Jay

Sometimes on really hard sport routes (cutting edge 14s, etc.) you'll see climbers skip clips because some of the bolts are "working bolts." These are only used for working the route and not needed on redpoint attempts.

"that may change when the overhangs become more popular"


do you really thing overhangs will become popular? :wink:

gambler

Mental training.

-Jay

With all the flaming going on, I am suprised no one flamed Jay on this statement.

anyways, the alien was frikin solid, anyways, who gives a s---! i don't need to justify my friends lead to you.

it was a bold clean lead, one that i'm sure he's very proud of. i truly believe that if he had taken the whip it would have been of little consiquence, even if the alien had pulled, there were pieces below it obviously.

its simply a case of a leader climbing within his abilities and making the gear choices which he feels are best.

Yosemite National Park (CA)
Climbing Fatality on Lower Cathedral Rock

On the morning of Saturday, May 31st, Chris Hampson, 25, of Breckenridge, Colorado, died while climbing the Overhang Bypass route on Lower Cathedral Rock in Yosemite Valley. Climbing a considerable distance above his last protection, Hampson took a leader fall of at least 80 feet and was caught by his partner, Sybille Hechtel. Hampson ended up around a corner from Hechtel and did not respond to her yells. Minutes after the fall another climber, Bob Jensen, happened upon Hechtel while free soloing the same route. Jensen climbed up to a point on the route where he could see Hampson hanging more than 40 feet below. Jensen called out to Hampson and encouraged him to try to climb back up. Hampson could not climb and appeared disoriented to Jensen. Hampson also said that he could not see. Without gear to descend to Hampson, Jensen down-climbed the route and then drove to the Valley SAR cache, where he reported the incident at 12:15 p.m. SAR team members responded and a paramedic was with Hampson by 1:57 p.m. Medical control at the Yosemite Medical Clinic pronounced Hampson dead via the radio at 2:12 p.m. Hampson’s body was lowered about 300 feet to a ledge. From there he was transported by long line under the park helicopter to the Crane Flat Helibase. Hampson received severe trauma to his head in the fall. He was not wearing a helmet.
(Submitted by Jack Hoeflich, IC)

My apologies for not posting about this tragedy earlier. The NPS report posted by Melissa and freeclimber explains the basics of what happened last Saturday (thanks for posting that information). Chris’s death has been hard on everyone, and I want to make sure other climbers have the right information about how he died, or at least the best information we have. I work as a climbing ranger in Yosemite Valley and assisted with the rescue effort.

For those who are not familiar with the Overhang Bypass route, Sybille was belaying at the base of a long low angle ramp/corner called the “Hog Trough” that ends with a moderately difficult mantle move (5.8 of 5.9) where a large block fell off the route a number of years ago. Based on where Chris stopped after taking his fall, he likely fell while climbing in easier terrain well above this “crux” move.

After leaving the belay he clipped his rope into a runner on a tree part way up the trough. He then continued up past another tree, likely climbed through the mantle, and then fell somewhere higher on the pitch. The second tree that he passed on the trough (but did not clip with a runner) was what caught his fall when his rope ran over its trunk.

He was not wearing a helmet on the route and likely sustained a serious head injury during his fall.

After Bob Jensen reported the accident Keith Lober and I simul-climbed the route as an initial blitz while others followed with additional equipment. By the time we reached a high point above Chris and lowered to his location he had already died. Sybille has worked with Yosemite’s rescue team for decades, and she did all that she could have done in this situation. Two additional climbers were also on the route, and I’d like to thank them again for their help.

Though I only met Chris briefly a few weeks ago, over the last few days I have learned from others what an amazing and inspirational person he was. My condolences to his friends and family, and I’m glad that some of those friends are now friends of my own.

I can’t guarantee how often I will be checking this forum over the next week, but I will do my best to answer questions and provide information when I can.

My thanks to all who joined in Camp 4 Sunday morning.

-Link

that is just ignorance.. not wearing a helmet and running it out 40 ft....

i love you to man!!

okay anyways. back on topic.