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Partner tisar


Mar 24, 2006, 12:56 PM
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Dear n00b.

I started climbing two years ago. Shortly afterwards it came clear I would be in the need for a ropegun if ever I wanted to climb something which does not resemble my appartment's staircase. Luckily my parents provided me with something appropriate: I talked my younger brother into climbing, which seemed to work out pretty well for a while.

Unfortunately he improved to an amount, he's about to climb things I can hardly follow him any more. Things which don't even resemble other people's staircases!

Now I'm really scared, he will turn his back on me and go for 'the real stuff', leaving me alone with my fingers taped and a pile of unopened ham sammiches.

So here's my question: Do you know how I can hinder my brother from further improvement, preferably without causing visible damage (since I don't want to overshadow next x-mas with those discussions) or cut on his useability as rope monkey?

Thanks a lot in advance!

- Daniel


subtle


Mar 25, 2006, 2:56 AM
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In reply to:
So here's my question: Do you know how I can hinder my brother from further improvement, preferably without causing visible damage (since I don't want to overshadow next x-mas with those discussions) or cut on his useability as rope monkey?

In reply to:
So um, I'm like looking at 50 pages of ask the noob... with all this experience are you still a noob? Can we still depend on your unsullied inexperience or is this the end?

The answers to these two questions are so shockingly similar, it only seemed logical to simul-answer them...which is, incidentally, how the Huber brothers keep shattering all those email speed records from the Camp 4 Starbucks WiFi hotspot. They also will steal your bagel if you don't guard it...y'know...so keep an eye out for that. Anyway...

Am I still a N00B after 50 pages of creatively recombined regurgitated KinderSpeak and out-and-out slanderous rumor-mongering? Hells yeah, brah. I mean...I'm even pretty much still using the same jokes as on Page 1. One of these days you guys are going to catch on to me, and then I'll actually have to stop picking on Trad climbers and...I dunno...get off the couch and climb something...and that's just crazy talk.

So, then, assuming you had access to a gigantic stream of potentially lethal drivel masquerading as practical climbing advice...(hint, hint)...how would one schadenfreudically assist one's brother into...oh, I dunno, let's say progressing...down a few grades over time? Piece of cake, bro. Just leave your RC.com account logged in, wait 'till he wanders by, and say the magic words:

Dude, check out that Ask the N00B thread...I hear Chris Sharma reads it.

And a 9862 post, V0+ projecting climber is born. You probably wondered where they came from...now you know.

Remember, if your bagel is gone and there's a bunch of fixed line leading to a guy with a pony tail...well, you were warned.

Allez. Check his pockets. Homard.


subtle


Mar 25, 2006, 3:07 AM
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As an ironic side note, I am actually going to get off the couch and climb something this weekend. I'll be spending a few days at Hueco Tanks pimping V0s and trying to hang off Esperanza long enough for the autofocus on my partner's camera to lock on and take a picture. As always, post your questions and I'll...do whatever it is I do...when I return.

Allez. If you see me on Esperanza, I'll be the blurry one. Homard.


dirtineye


Mar 25, 2006, 3:14 AM
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You are as funny at 50 pages as you were at page 1.

My question is, oh great and wise noob, how are the movie rights coming along, and who is negotiating for you in hollywood?

You are the Douglass Adams of climbing.

So long for now, and thanks for all the ham sammys.


ffaallliinngg


Mar 29, 2006, 7:45 AM
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Dear nOOb,
I just read that Michael Reardon got an award for onsight free soloing a multipitch 5.12B. They said he was badass and had a lot of balls.

My question is this: did he really have a lot of balls? I mean, were any of the pitches run out or anything?

Sincerely,
ffaallliinngg


Partner heiko


Mar 29, 2006, 8:28 AM
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Dear N00b,

I'd like to make me some tape gloves because I want to be the only really cool guy here in this limestone area who does face climbing with taped hands. But my hands are as hairy as King Kong's (palms, too, of course), and I'm an utter sissy... what can I do? I'm sure I will die when I try to remove the tape from my hands.

I need a solution by Friday tho, because girldrifter and some other friends will be coming down, and I really need to impress them.

Please help! :oops:

Heiko


subtle


Mar 30, 2006, 3:31 AM
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In reply to:
I'd like to make me some tape gloves because I want to be the only really cool guy here in this limestone area who does face climbing with taped hands. But my hands are as hairy as King Kong's (palms, too, of course), and I'm an utter sissy... what can I do? I'm sure I will die when I try to remove the tape from my hands.

(sigh)...you're killing me, here, bro. Talk about throwing away your natural gifts...it's like hearing Mozart say he's not interested in music...or Sharma say he wants to concentrate on his footwork...or Jason Kehl deciding to try to tone it down a little, y'know, just kind of blend in with the crowd.

So you've managed...in some manner, ahhhh, probably best not explored...to grow yourself some permanent hand velcro and you want to just cover it up so you can look like Ron Kauk's illegitimate 3rd cousin. You could paddle your way up anything with texture like Brundle Fly on a PixieStix sugar fix...but nooooooo...you want to look cool.

The simplest tape to take off is the tape you never put on, broham, meditate on that.

Allez. Ooooooooooom. Homard.


skinkididoo


Mar 31, 2006, 3:57 AM
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Dear n00b,

I've carefully read all 50 pages of your advice and am still left with a question. When I started climbing I became aware of the elite race known as Guides. They fearlessly lead clients (n00bs) up 5.2 multipitches (i.e. setting a belay at each bolt of a 50ft sport climb), are never seen falling or hangdogging, appear to be masters at all modes of climbing (bouldering, sport, trad, slogging up big snowy hills - i mean mountaineering, even slacklining), and are masters at the preparation and consumption of perfect ham sandwiches. I don't think you've spoken of this mysterious race of climbers yet.

So my question is, who are they and where do they come from? Are they really as perfect as they appear? What is their secret? Mostly I ask all this because as an aspiring 5.1+ trad climber, I aspire to be a guide and I really want to know how. I've heard of this thing called the AMGA and I think maybe thats the name of their secret club. Is it a conspiracy?

Please enlighten me!


Partner heiko


Mar 31, 2006, 7:47 AM
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In reply to:

The simplest tape to take off is the tape you never put on, broham, meditate on that.

Allez. Ooooooooooom. Homard.


Thanks N00b!

Ommmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

H.


mrnomas


Apr 1, 2006, 6:05 AM
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Dear nOOb,

I have two questions:

1) My son was born on St. Patrick's day, what kind of climber will he be?

2) My climbing partner wants to celebrate my son's birth with some sort of climbing trip that he's planning. He won't tell me about it but I was looking at his bookshelf and it was full of books like Touching the Void, and Into Thin Air, and Between a Rock and a Hard Place. I'm getting concerned about his plans. Should I be?

Many thanks for all you've done for the climbing community,


gt29905


Apr 1, 2006, 7:06 AM
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In reply to:
with texture like Brundle Fly on a PixieStix sugar fix...

I hope someone else got this reference besides me, jesus it made me laugh.


subtle


Apr 4, 2006, 1:33 AM
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In reply to:
I have two questions:

1) My son was born on St. Patrick's day, what kind of climber will he be?

2) My climbing partner wants to celebrate my son's birth with some sort of climbing trip that he's planning. He won't tell me about it but I was looking at his bookshelf and it was full of books like Touching the Void, and Into Thin Air, and Between a Rock and a Hard Place. I'm getting concerned about his plans. Should I be?

Well, fortunately for you, we here at Ask The NOOB are in the middle of ummmm, a fund raising...subscription drive...bake sale...with a limited-time two for one special offer. So, yeah, I'll answer 'em both. And you get a coffee mug...and some banana bread.

With any kind of luck your son will be one of those Leprechauns I always see selling cereal on TV and campusing through Lucky Sharms. His ape index will be negative eighteen or something, but he'll totally pimp scrunchy sit-starts and be able to full-body-bar his way into abusurdly good rest stances on long pumpy problems. Just be sure he guards his chalk pot 'o gold, broham, or that Trix rabbit will gank it.

Hopefully, your son is named Lucky, since he's apparently going to need it judging from your friend's choice in motivational climbing literature. Personally, I like to see copies of Re-Checking Your Knot - Expanded Edition, maybe There's No Shame in Bailing or the classic The Un-Cannibalized Climbing Partner - Collected Essays on Bringing the Map and The Compass...but that's just me. I honestly don't think you have to worry about his plans, since I don't think they extend past "Go into wilderness...get really lost...eat most tasty person on expedition...repeat as necessary". If your friend's rack of pro is actually 47 Swiss Army knives and a folding fork and spoon...well...cheer up, he'll probably eat Lucky last.

He's green...he's, ummm...not ripe yet.

Allez. It's actually a banana bread coffee mug...sip quickly. Homard.


subtle


Apr 10, 2006, 2:44 AM
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In reply to:
When I started climbing I became aware of the elite race known as Guides. They fearlessly lead clients (n00bs) up 5.2 multipitches (i.e. setting a belay at each bolt of a 50ft sport climb), are never seen falling or hangdogging, appear to be masters at all modes of climbing (bouldering, sport, trad, slogging up big snowy hills - i mean mountaineering, even slacklining), and are masters at the preparation and consumption of perfect ham sandwiches. I don't think you've spoken of this mysterious race of climbers yet.

So my question is, who are they and where do they come from? Are they really as perfect as they appear? What is their secret?

Funny you should ask, I've just recently had my first encounter with a real live guide when I visited Hueco Tanks. It was fairly massively intimidating, to be honest...the thought of a Matt Wilder or Ana Burgos watching me flail miserably on a V1- while trying to offer helpful beta like "Grab the big giant jug...no...the bigger one...with all the chalk on it...with your hand...ok just, ahhh, shake it off on the ground there, for a while...I'll find some band-aids..."

So, what did I learn while...errr, resting...and observing? Tons, brah. Guides are partially nomadic, travelling in small bands in even smaller cars filled chock full 'o giant crashpads and bags and bags of $1.19 tortillas. Guides are the elite, the Navy SEALs of the bouldering world...scrambling out of their communal AMC Gremlin with the broken hatchback at the crack of noon, armed only with a pair of flip-flops, a pita filled with avocado and encyclopedic knowledge of every bump and ripple on any rock larger than fist sized for thirty miles. The good ones can recount in chilling detail John Sherman's epic failed 3982nd attempt on Full Service, even though they were approximately 2 years old when it happened. They are all-seeing, all-knowing, and all-sending. If you can climb something a guide can't, he has to give you a prize...usually a tortilla...it's their code, just like gunslingers and ninjas.

The much more intriguing question is, where do they come from? The depressingly easy factual answer is Colorado and California...one of the people I met in Hueco used to work at the coffee shop in Bishop, for example. Sad to say, apparently there are so many freakishly strong climbers in Boulder and Yosemite that they have to exile the weak V13 gumbs to Texas and New England. It's probably like Children of the Corn, except on your 18th birthday instead of feeding you to some sort of Agri-Satan, you have to perpetually road-trip, live on flatbread and shame the tourist climbers like...errrr...those other people on the guided tour.

Poor buggers.

Allez. If you bring peanut butter, guides will love you forever. Homard.


ffaallliinngg


Apr 20, 2006, 6:00 AM
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Dear Noob:

Found the following on the interweb:

"Croque Monsieur & Croque Madame

Hot ham and cheese sandwiches with a French twist."
The croque-monsieur, a hot ham and cheese sandwich served in the bistros and cafés of Paris, has provided quick, cheap nourishment for thousands of students and budget minded travelers. Do you remember ordering a croque-monsieur, while seated at an outdoor café? I do!

Holy Cognitive Dissonance! Where does this cuisine fit in the trad-climber/ spandex-wearing chain-smoking girlfriend-stealing sporto frog continuum?


subtle


Apr 25, 2006, 12:47 AM
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In reply to:
The croque-monsieur, a hot ham and cheese sandwich served in the bistros and cafés of Paris, has provided quick, cheap nourishment for thousands of students and budget minded travelers. Do you remember ordering a croque-monsieur, while seated at an outdoor café? I do!

Holy Cognitive Dissonance! Where does this cuisine fit in the trad-climber/ spandex-wearing chain-smoking girlfriend-stealing sporto frog continuum?

(blows dust off keyboard)

First off, sorry for the slow reply. I, like every other boulderer worth their Dopegun hoodie, have been frantically scouring sketchy Eastern Bloc file sharing sites looking for a pre-release bootleg copy of 10,000 Days. Whoa...tractor pr0n...who knew? Errr, anyway...

Well, well...the 'ol Ham Question again, eh? Never answered this one before. I'd better stretch out a little, y'know, don't want to blow out a tendon or anything.

After several seconds of contemplation while listening to...ah, some CD...it occurs to me that there is no trad-climber blibbety-blabbety whatever-you-said sporto frog continuum. I mean, there probably should be, right? Try as I might, though, I can't think of a single hard core dirt-bagging van-living beard-having trad hardman from La France. Do EuroVans lack the necessary voltage to power a portable cappucino machine? Is shaggy facewear a potential fire hazard when chain smoking four packs of unfiltered Gaulioses a day? Do spandex-on-cam snags spoil too many near-epic sends and make distraught sponsors stomp on their berets and scream Merde!?! Perhaps it's simply that after spending all the time and effort necessary to drill out...errrr...clean...a new route, it's just too much effort of chisel...errrr, sorry, aggressively clean...cam and nut placements. Zee grid bolts practically place themselves, no, eh?

So, then, why the ham? I suspect it might be some bizarre cross-cultural add-on game with some of the tape missing that started with Jerry Lewis, crossed into David Hasslehof and ended with a big inexplicable dyno to...the Ham Sandie. Eeet ees cool, no?

Eet ees.

Allez. That's my kind of story. It's never fun 'till... Homard.


sblacksmith


May 3, 2006, 7:14 PM
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Hey nOOb,

What up yo?! Before i get to my "serious question" where you been man? Don't tell me that you've traded in the ultimate comfort of the ass molded couch and climbing vids to go out side and touch rocks or something? Pssssh that can't be it, so what gives you in jail? Well what ever the excuse....errrr reason i should say, I'm sure its one that's acceptable.

OK so on to the "serious question" I wanted to know what kind of music is the best to boulder to. I usually lay around for 15 or 20 min before each problem and listen to part of a String Cheese song or a Phish jam of some sort and then spend a few minutes trying and pull my self off the ground, and then go take a nap. But lately I'm not feelin that any more. Now I've been breaking out my old punk and rockabilly Cd's and instead of climbing the rocks i try and start fights with them, and thats certainly not helping me break through the V0+ grade. So whats a poor boulderer to do? Should i try some classical, maybe Sean Paul or some house techno raver trancey blend?

thanks for the help
s.
ps. if i do the techno house raver thing do i have to bring glow sticks to the crag with me?


gilliamaddict


May 4, 2006, 1:04 AM
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dear noob,
thanks to your answering questions i have learned what it is to be a real rock climber: a real rock climber is somone who, contrary to popular belief, doesnot actually rock climb, it is somone who spends enough time, on RockClimbing.com's forum making fun of(instead of informing) people turning to the website for information on rockclimbing(noobs), a position that they were never themselves in because they were rockclimbing in the womb.

it is too bad that we cannot just inform indaviduals interested in climbing about the sport and the importance of it to some of us, and understand that we live in a diverse world where others may not share the same values concerning climbing, and furthermore that some may have not grown up in inviroments where the natural world was not as sacred, i hardly see hw telling them off and answering their questions sarcasticly will help them to appreciate the natural world and the culture of climbing.

I am disapointed that a climbers worth is reduced to how many posts he has on this forum.


Partner booger


May 4, 2006, 11:12 AM
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^^^

:lol: :lol:

Evidemment... un homard!


sblacksmith


May 5, 2006, 3:45 AM
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dear noob,
thanks to your answering questions i have learned what it is to be a real rock climber: a real rock climber is somone who, contrary to popular belief, doesnot actually rock climb, it is somone who spends enough time, on RockClimbing.com's forum making fun of(instead of informing) people turning to the website for information on rockclimbing(noobs), a position that they were never themselves in because they were rockclimbing in the womb.

it is too bad that we cannot just inform indaviduals interested in climbing about the sport and the importance of it to some of us, and understand that we live in a diverse world where others may not share the same values concerning climbing, and furthermore that some may have not grown up in inviroments where the natural world was not as sacred, i hardly see hw telling them off and answering their questions sarcasticly will help them to appreciate the natural world and the culture of climbing.

I am disapointed that a climbers worth is reduced to how many posts he has on this forum.



:D

Hey bud, chill out, not one of the 51 pages of this wicked rad thread is serious. Not everything in life is serious for that matter. Why not laugh at how ridiculous it is like everyone else. and if thats not your cup of tea then......dont read it.
And as far as informing people that are interested in climbing. come on man where else are you gonna learn that the residual drag from your t-shirt can impair your bouldering grade?
s.


justthemaid


May 6, 2006, 3:21 PM
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Wow!

Gilliam is either a brilliant troll, or just managed to become the least-liked person on this entire website on his second post.

In either case- *(clap)* *(clap)* *(clap)*.

Noob- we still love you.


subtle


May 7, 2006, 6:27 PM
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In reply to:
Before i get to my "serious question" where you been man? Don't tell me that you've traded in the ultimate comfort of the ass molded couch and climbing vids to go out side and touch rocks or something?

OK so on to the "serious question" I wanted to know what kind of music is the best to boulder to. I usually lay around for 15 or 20 min before each problem and listen to part of a String Cheese song or a Phish jam of some sort and then spend a few minutes trying and pull my self off the ground, and then go take a nap. But lately I'm not feelin that any more. Now I've been breaking out my old punk and rockabilly Cd's and instead of climbing the rocks i try and start fights with them, and thats certainly not helping me break through the V0+ grade. So whats a poor boulderer to do? Should i try some classical, maybe Sean Paul or some house techno raver trancey blend?

Climbing outside? Are you kidding? First off, I live in Houston, so pretty much the only thing you can climb around here are...stairs. Then, once you do find a nice set of stairs to project, you have to wait for a day when it's less than 100 degrees and 104% humidity. We usually get one of those every other January. Given that, I've been spending a lot of time sitting on my pad at the base of Please Use the Handrail VB+ listening to my iPod and waiting for the pavement to stop bubbling. Still waiting...

So, what's am I listening to these days? Well, last year's dopeness was Rasputina...so if you're deep in the backwoods of uncool, that'll probably put you a couple of years ahead of the crowd. This year is all about the new Tool CD, 10,000 Days...which I think is still downloadable from a sketchy 2400 Baud server somewhere in Lagos. While you're waiting the 23,874 hours for that to finish, though, I'd suggest you poke through your existing library to support any weaknesses in your climbing. Developing technique and power takes mucho time and effort...which will totally interfere with your on-pad chillin' and slackline cross-training...while downloading musical supplementation just takes a fast internet connection and your mom's credit card.

Too wimpy to stick that big dyno? A little Pantera should do the trick...just watch out for the inevitable side effects of punching your spotters, the rock, or...yourself. Once you've stuck the dyno but are now so amped up you tear off the finish jug then go moshing off into the woods biting trees, bring yourself down for a little pad-nap with some Guster. If you're a little too sluggish in the post-nap hacky sack circle, amp up your positivity with the Dead's American Beauty.

Under no circumstances should you ever listen to Sean Paul. They accidentally let the CD changer rotate over to that at the gym, once, and before you knew it 50 guys in skin-tite ChunderArmor shirts drinking Red Bull materialized around my V0+ project and started asking where the VIP room was, and if they could 'borrow' a couple of lines of my chalk. For some reason they always chalked up in the bathroom, but never seemed to get any to stick to their hands...they all had colds, too...lot of sneezing. Odd.

Allez. Anybody know the phone number for Lagos? Homard.


gilliamaddict


May 9, 2006, 3:58 AM
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"Even if you are a minority of one, the truth is the truth."
Mohandas Gandhi


subtle


May 10, 2006, 12:17 AM
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In reply to:
dear noob,
thanks to your answering questions i have learned what it is to be a real rock climber: a real rock climber is somone who, contrary to popular belief, doesnot actually rock climb, it is somone who spends enough time, on RockClimbing.com's forum making fun of(instead of informing) people turning to the website for information on rockclimbing(noobs), a position that they were never themselves in because they were rockclimbing in the womb.

it is too bad that we cannot just inform indaviduals interested in climbing about the sport and the importance of it to some of us, and understand that we live in a diverse world where others may not share the same values concerning climbing, and furthermore that some may have not grown up in inviroments where the natural world was not as sacred, i hardly see hw telling them off and answering their questions sarcasticly will help them to appreciate the natural world and the culture of climbing.

I am disapointed that a climbers worth is reduced to how many posts he has on this forum.

So, then, I guess a real rock climber is someone who feels the need to get all bowed-up and self-righteous and tap out a pidgin English response to a blatantly satirical series of posts? Because...not to be all judgmental and all, bro, because I know you'd never go there...that's what you just did. Although I appreciate a hastily google-searched coffeehouse-cred enhancing Gandhi quote as much as the next person, what you need to understand is that there is no way you are going to make an intellectual point in here...if you even had one to make in the first place. I'm mildly surprised you didn't go for the much more nihilistically zen and yet faux climbing-applicable "Whatever you do will be insignificant, but it is very important that you do it", to really shore up your moral high ground as an aesthetically pure Soul Climber. I mean, it sounds like something Ron Kauk would say...no? Oh well, better luck next time.

Ask The NOOB is a place for intentionally stupid questions that I try to trump with stupider answers. Feel free to ask all you like. If you...or anyone else...wants serious answers, you'll have to make due with the other 314,129,921 threads on the site. Only 124,291,091 are about finding the right climbing shoes, though...

As a side note for all future Trolls and Trollettes, I don't plan on responding to anything other than questions from now on. I already feel like the birthday party clown that got into the rubbing alcohol and started kicking the children and hurling abuse at the pony. Damn you, Sprinkles, you eyeballin' me?!?

Allez. Go back under the bridge with the billy goats. Homard.


honus


May 10, 2006, 1:01 AM
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Re: the dating game [In reply to]
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last week i saw a thread about "aid" climbing. i was just curious, who exactly are these people aiding? are they sponsored by ngo's or something? my first thought was that aid climbing is based online, like helping other climbers who have been in accidents, a la sponsoring that woman you work with in the march of dimes...then i heard that someone aid climbed el cap, does that mean that yosemite is wireless now too? how can i get into "aid" climing? i'm just looking for something to feel good about since the peace corps rejected me, again.


Partner epoch
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May 10, 2006, 11:35 AM
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Allez. Go back under the bridge with the billy goats. Homard.

Damn... :shock:

51 pages, and now this.


No0b,
How do I put the shine back into my not-so-shiny trad rack?? Are my cams going to corrode and become useless???, because I am afraid of oxidization and it's affects on swadged cable joints.

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