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aefavant
Dec 27, 2006, 1:53 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Sep 21, 2005
Posts: 19
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I recently met a lad here in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) and I´m climing with him for training, The reason for that is that he managed to JUMP from the equivalent 5.7 (US) to an 5.11d/5.12.... IN 9 MONTHS.
Call me a lier or imaginative lol, but it´s true! moreover, I see his progress and hi´s encouraging me to jump from my 5.10 (killing myself up) to something over that, say at least 2 grades so we can climb together.
His formula: upper and abs workout (home workout) and gym 2-3 times a week. and, of course, climbing every possible day. For him it´s easy, for hi´s just 16 and doesn´t work yet. Anyway, ho proved me that I can also climb harder.
hugs to all!
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bizarrodrinker
Dec 27, 2006, 3:53 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Dec 20, 2005
Posts: 2316
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A friend of mine (though we primarily boulder) has jumped from climbing v2 to v6 (outside) this season.
He has been climbing for about 2 years and is 31 yo. His training consists of Aikido 3 almost daily, and climbing 3-4 days a week.
Personally I believe that people's heads get in the way a lot of the time. I.e. if you don't truely believe that you can do something, odds are you will not. But if you believe that you have the potential to do something (anything really) you are infinitely more likely to committ yourself to the training required for you. Some people just "get" climbing.
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billcoe_
Dec 30, 2006, 6:26 AM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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osloklatrer wrote: so.. reached 8a yet?
Nice catch: haven't seen any posts since Oct 06 when Knightstreet posted this:
knightstreet wrote: Hi, Training for next rock season and need..... *** SUPER-PSYCHED TRAINING PARTNER *** Don't care what level of ability. Male preferably because my GF will get jealous. Has to be the following: Motivated, reliable, PSYCHED TO THE MAX, available for wall sessions 2/3 times a week. Training will be primarily for sport routes so it's essential that you wanna do trad/sport not just bouldering. Either way I'll be using a rope indoors at some stage in the training process so it's best if you do too. Must stress that this is a TRAINING partner not just a climbing partner - Just to make things clear. We may do some climbing after training. We'll see. Might be too tired to climb. Dunno. Live in Calgary (Parkdale). Which is nice. Ta, CB. |
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jgill
Dec 31, 2006, 4:08 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
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aefavant wrote: I recently met a lad here in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) and I�m climing with him for training, The reason for that is that he managed to JUMP from the equivalent 5.7 (US) to an 5.11d/5.12.... IN 9 MONTHS.
I'm not surprised. Progress in competitive oriented climbing is very strongly dependent on genetic factors. I've seen very unathletic people immediately adapt to the rock climbing environment, and highly trained athletes be frustrated by lack of progress. If you are short or of medium height and have a relatively light bone structure you may "fit" into climbing quickly, whereas taller and heavier novices may have a tougher time. For one climber, 5.9 is a starting point, for another 5.9 is a goal achieved after a fair amount of practice. I know generalizations are unwise, but this is what I've seen time and again. For very tall climbers, like Jim Holloway and Scott Blunk, a bouldering move accomplished by a short climber may simply be a completely different experience, with a completely different "grade" attached. Oh well, too much rambling . . . 
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tyson16v
Jan 6, 2007, 3:33 AM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jan 4, 2005
Posts: 93
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jgill wrote: I'm not surprised. Progress in competitive oriented climbing is very strongly dependent on genetic factors. I've seen very unathletic people immediately adapt to the rock climbing environment, and highly trained athletes be frustrated by lack of progress. If you are short or of medium height and have a relatively light bone structure you may "fit" into climbing quickly, whereas taller and heavier novices may have a tougher time. For one climber, 5.9 is a starting point, for another 5.9 is a goal achieved after a fair amount of practice. I know generalizations are unwise, but this is what I've seen time and again. For very tall climbers, like Jim Holloway and Scott Blunk, a bouldering move accomplished by a short climber may simply be a completely different experience, with a completely different "grade" attached. Oh well, too much rambling . . .
john makes a great point. for some, climbing comes very naturally and easily. i work with youth climbers a lot. and i have seen quite a few who literally on their first day could climb 5.10a in the gym.
they are small, light and their fingers fit into anything.
recently there was a young guy (about 17 maybe) who got a gym membership here and had been climbing for about a month on one of the local outdoor artifical walls. when he got his membership he was stuggling on V1. it is january and he is now climbing V8. and he got his gym membership in september. he is small (5'6" 115 lbs) and was a wrestler all through highschool.
some people will be able to pull down grades really fast. the real test is whether they will learn any type of good technique in that time. i would love to see someone climb really hard grades in a really short time with amazing technique and grace. it is possible im sure with the right help. but nothing replaces hours and hours of wall time.
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