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jto
Nov 2, 2005, 8:30 PM
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Usually people pick grips and hang on them as long as possible with or without extra weight. Does anybody have any other "systems"?
I myself run in to a wall in three months if I keep doing the above even when changing hang times and adding weights etc. I have a loooong backround in weightlifting so progressive overload is not a stranger to me. Anyway static strentgh training seemed to be a bit of a bitch... until:
Last April I started to break a set into smaller peaces. Instead of hanging straight as long as I could I did 5-10 sec hangs with 5-10 pauses as long as I usually could.
I normally make the sessions either strength oriented (shorter hangs with more weight for example 5 x 5 secs x 30 kgs/ 10sec pauses) or more power endurance oriented (longer hangs with shorter pauses for example 5 x 10 secs x 10kgs/5 sec pauses).
I usually do the hangboard (not excactly but just a few wooden rungs) workout 2-4 hours after bouldering. I do around 6-10 sets of hangs. Normally I do one session half crimps only and the next three finger openhanded ones.
This way I have been going progressively without a setback or even a plateau for 8 months what is absolutely great!
So far the best set has been hangs from a 2 cm edge 6 x 5 sec x 30 kgs /5 sec pauses. I weigh 85 kgs (187 lbs) myself.
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muncher
Nov 2, 2005, 9:03 PM
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Hey jto, I generally do hangboard workouts in a similar fashion to yourself. I usually do repeaters i.e. 5 max intensity hangs with 5 sec rest between then a two minute rest before changing holds. I cycle through pinches, 2 finger pockets (all combinations), small edge, med edge, 3 finger pocket. I add as much weight as it takes to fail in less than 10 secs. Once I have gone through all the grip types I rest for approx 10 mins and do it again.
Once I get strong enough I will drop the weight and just do one arm work though, much more climbing specific.
I then usually finish up with some weighted pullups, one arm lock offs and front levers.
I only ever do a max of 2 sessions a week for three weeks before moving on to something else, HIT or campusing. It is much better to change things up regularly so as to stay motivated and shock the body thus increasing the training effect.
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jto
Nov 3, 2005, 9:03 AM
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interesting. I too sometimes vary the holds from set to set. anyway I seem to get better results when concentrating on only 1-2 hold types a session. this might also prevent me from injuries as I donīt stress the same grip that often.
how many 5sec reps with 5 sec pauses can you do in a row if all are absolute maximums (you couldnīt hang 6 secs)? thatīs a very quick recovery, mate.
I can hang on my basic edge (2cm) about 15 secs with 30kilos but 30 secs in a six rep set. all the reps canīt be absolute maxes at least for me or I burn out in two or three reps.
usually I stop the set when I canīt hang 5 secs anymore. for strength I do 3-8 reps and for hypertrophy and power endurance sometimes as many as 20.
sometimes I do drop set ie. I hang the absolute max with a weight (around 5-15 secs), pause 5-15 secs, hang the max again, pause and maybe one more hang. all this is done with the same weight. example: 10secs x 35kgs --> 7 secs x 35kgs --> 3 secs x 35kgs /all pauses 10 secs.
another similar wold be that I drop the weight too to keep the reps longer. example: 10 secs x 35kgs --> 12 secs x 25kgs --> 10 secs x 15 kgs --> 14 secs x 5kgs/ all pauses 10 secs (enough to rip the weight off).
I could also do the same using different grips ie. 1,5cm edge --> 2cm edge --> 2,5cm edge. or three finger openhand pocket --> big sloper.
those special sets arenīt really power training methods but more like advanced bodybuilding brought to hangboards. I consider those special techniques quite useless for building general strength and power but in my hangboard workouts they really work. the reason might be that my forearms demand more volume done on higher intensity and lactic acid being around more.
to clarify (if someone is a bit confused of the terms I use):
- a rep is a time hanged before letting go of the hold
- a set is the total reps done in a row before a longer pause
- multiple sets make a workout
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headchop
Nov 3, 2005, 3:18 PM
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In reply to: Usually people pick grips and hang on them as long as possible with or without extra weight.
If you check out the training literature or do a simple search on this site, you'll find that it is generally recommended to do 3-12 second hangs, with ample recovery time in between. As you get stronger, try to move to single arm hangs. And, yes, you want to use different types of holds/grips - just working edges won't make you stronger on slopers or pinches.
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jto
Nov 3, 2005, 4:50 PM
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Didnīt get your point, mate?
I think the most usual way to do deadhangs really IS that one hangs as long as he can on a hold. And yes, usually within that 3-12 second frame you wrote too. I donīt know what I wrote differently. In case you understood me wrong I didnīt mean that people usually hang on boards for minutes at the time :) That would be a killer for joints.
Thatīs why I wanted to ask if folks have different systems to stimulate strength and power on boards than the most usual. I donīt say broken sets are the best way to go but I think theyīre a good alternative. I do straight sets too once in a while.
In case you got me wrong I use a lot of different holds to avoid plateaus. Not just edges I mostly have mentioned.
And... training literature in itīs many forms is pretty familiar to me... You should see my library :D
Cheers.
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lordshockspeare
Nov 3, 2005, 11:20 PM
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It sounds like you have a pretty thorough system already and donīt really need much more input. Iīm amazed you have the energy for your hangboard workout after bouldering for multiple hours! I usually do one or the other. I am acutally goinig to start using your routine, thanks!
I actually have a question for you. Have you noticed a signifacant improvement in your climbing since you started doing these elaborate workouts?
Its always seemed hard for me to make my strength gains transfer over to actual climbs. I improve climbing wise much more if just stick to climbing and donīt mess around with gyms and actual training. Sorry if Iīm being kind of vague itīs kinda late here....
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anykineclimb
Nov 4, 2005, 8:16 AM
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metolius has Hangboard routines on their site.
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jto
Nov 4, 2005, 4:56 PM
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no worries. just to clear things up: Iīm not looking for advice where to find hangboard workouts. Iīm just interested in what kind of a system has worked best for you guys. Just as the thread headline states.
lordshockspeare,
I do have noticed benefits from adding more training in the form of hangboarding etc. I seem to do too little volume (for me) when bouldering as most of it are projecting new problems. So if I crank an hour or two I donīt really get that much mileage.
Also my fingertips get pretty easily sore of all the microcrimping on granite. The wooden rungs give me a possibility to train a bit longer as it is quite impossible for me to climb hard hours after hours.
I also have a tendency to lose the edge quite quickly. Meaning if I donīt hang or climb for 3-4 days I see my fingers get into a lazy sleepy state. This has also gone away when I added more hangboard workouts.
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sidepull
May 11, 2007, 6:57 PM
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-(resurrection - behold the glory!)-
I haven't used my hangboard systematically in about a year. Since that time I've had some shoulder problems. I jumped on it yesterday for a very mild, 5 minute routine, nothing small, no super long hangs. During the process I found that it was difficult to just hang on my skeleton. I found myself tightening my shoulders and my biceps slightly to keep a mild bend in my arms and to keep my shoulders in a pain-free position. This experience brought on a host of questions:
1) do most people straight arm hang? does this adversely affect the shoulders?
2) do most people hang on one-arm or two? this question needs a bit more explanation. I think few people are strong enough to hang one armed off of more than a good jug. But if you hang two-armed and really try to push yourself, your dominant hand will take more of the load. I used to use a scale below my hangboard and I'd always use my left hand (the weaker hand) first and then match the weight with my right. While this might bring along my left hand it probably doesn't provide a big enough stimulus to the right hand.
So, in sum:
how do you protect the shoulders while hangboarding?
what do you do to balance/stimulate growth in the hands?
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jto
May 11, 2007, 7:46 PM
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donīt hang loose  meaning: keep shoulders tensed down a bit so you donīt hang totally relaxed. this way the rotator cuff stays healthy.
to stimulate growth you have to add volume and/or add weights. basicly that and it goes with the hangboarding too. the muscles in the forearm are quite small so the hypertrophy is not as huge as in quads etc of course. also the static nature of hangboarding is not so good for hypertrophy as dynamic movement.
my best hyp program for hangboard only:
- do multiple (3-10) sets for one grip type.
- do the sets with reps = repeaters: for instance one set: 8x10secs hang @ 50 lbs/ 5 sec pauses, last rep is near or at failure.
- use 2-3 different grip types only in a workout.
- do vary your training regimen: hang times 5-15 secs, pauses 2-10 secs, weights, reps, sets grips etc.
- add overall volume. for instance if you started with the above "8x10secs hang @ 50 lbs/ 5 sec pauses", try to work your way maybe to "12x15secs hang @ 60 lbs/ 5 sec pauses"
- keep the reps in one set between 5 and 15 stressing either strength or endurance side of hypertrophic training
cheers :)
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microbarn
May 11, 2007, 7:57 PM
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not sure how much any of this answers your questions, but I posted a ton of hangboard specific info from different threads here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...post=1464872#1464872
While not answered directly, you may get an idea.
(This post was edited by microbarn on May 11, 2007, 8:01 PM)
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sidepull
May 11, 2007, 8:32 PM
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Thanks for the posts so far.
I guess the second part of my question was a bit vague or obscured by my rambling. Along with shoulder health questions, I'm interested in whether or not most people hang one or two handed and if they hand one handed how they go about doing it.
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