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Gmburns2000
Oct 18, 2007, 1:11 AM
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elron wrote: Core, glad to hear you made it home! Tape?!?! We don't need no stinkin' tape! Wear those hand wounds with pride my friend :) Kevin
Yeah, that's like stick-clipping: who does that?
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jakedatc
Oct 18, 2007, 1:37 AM
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oh don't get me started silly folk who climb with the wrong side of your hands ;)
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robbovius
Oct 19, 2007, 12:10 PM
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In about another 5 minutes I'm hittin the road for lincoln NH and some recon hiking around the area...laterz!
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core
Oct 21, 2007, 12:07 AM
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Let us know how the next adventure is coming Rob!
15a...unreal.
So I was climbing last weekend and looked over my shoulder, only to see this:
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core
Oct 22, 2007, 1:58 AM
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Today Al and I made a quick trip up North...as it turns out, the climbing is still good in New England too! I think the colors are just past prime up there though.
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core
Oct 22, 2007, 2:17 AM
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mmmm that's nice!
I kept an eye out for your wagon today but didn't see it. Where did you spend the day?
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robbovius
Oct 22, 2007, 11:36 AM
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Shiat, man, we were all up north. Pam and I stayed at my guit student parents place in Lincoln NH friday thru sunday. this was not a climbing trip (Pam doesn't climb, those she's always been very game for whatever bushwhacking and scrambling I've introduced to our hikes, so I'm hopeful), more like reconnoitering various places I want to go to (WH south buttress, Crawford Notch) showing Pam the places I've climbed and trying to spark her interest in possibly roping up someday.
even though I had brought my digicam, I took pics with my celphone, sicne I didn't bother to bring the cam on any walks/hikes. pardon the grainy blurriness.
Friday the weather was crappy, with rain and mist all day. and . after getting soggy bushwhacking around the base of Artist's Bluff, where we discovered this weird looking blue fungi
... we drove the loop up 3 to 302 and down thru Crawford Notch (looking for Lost in the Sun - probable Bday adventure - & mnt Webster , but couldn't see shiat because of the fog, mist and rain) hiked. it was beautiful both saturday and sunday.
saturday we made another trip top Noco, and I took pam into whitehorse. I'd thought of walkign up to the Standard route launch ledge, btu the entiore bottom of the cliff was soaked and barely passable. everytime I tried to get up past the wet areas, I slid off after going about 6-7 feet.
we hiked the bottom of Whitehorse to the south buttress, along whic IO found the starts of some routes that looked interesting and within my abilities, but were also soaked. there was a literal waterfall splashing down from the echo roof.
in each of the pics below, there was running water underhand.
anybody know which routes these are the bottoms of?
they're all on the south butress...
sunday we took the trail to the AB summit, and I happened to bump into a College Rock aquaintance, Brooke, who led the two routes I'd done in august. AB is like one of my favorite places to climb, so I found myself compelled to freesolo this efun 5.2-5.3 thing (on a 40+ foot face to the left of the summit trail) in my hikers.
Driving home sunday afternoon about 4:50, I'm positive we passed Gabe and alison going south on 93. Honda Insights are fairly rare, and the two folks driving looked a awful lot like cracklover adn acherry, with acherry driving...gabe was that you two?
(This post was edited by robbovius on Oct 22, 2007, 11:40 AM)
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ambler
Oct 22, 2007, 11:58 AM
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core wrote: Where did you spend the day?
'Nother one of my mystery ledges. (Not!)
But we had the cliff to ourselves, for a while.
robbovius wrote: anybody know which routes these are the bottoms of?
The pic of Rob below a large left-facing corner with a couple of jammed flakes -- that looks like the first pitch of Beelzebub, 5.4. So you're around the Ethereal Crack/Children's Crusade/Three Saints part of the cliff.
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robbovius
Oct 22, 2007, 2:14 PM
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ambler wrote: [ The pic of Rob below a large left-facing corner with a couple of jammed flakes -- that looks like the first pitch of Beelzebub, 5.4. So you're around the Ethereal Crack/Children's Crusade/Three Saints part of the cliff.
Larry, thanks, though I thought the moves there looked more .6-sh...the entire crack was running with water. ;-) nearby, back towards the slabs, I saw a prominent left-slanting dike that looked .7 -.8 ish in places, which traversed the face for about 50-70 feet to a tree ledge...THAT looked interesting. any ideas?
I'd never been to the south buttress before. sometimes I have to put the damn guidebooks down (becasue all those damned .9-and-up routes intimidate me and make me think there's nothing there at my level) and just go to the crag, look at it, and decide what looks climbable to me.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Oct 22, 2007, 2:15 PM)
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ambler
Oct 22, 2007, 3:13 PM
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robbovius wrote: ambler wrote: The pic of Rob below a large left-facing corner with a couple of jammed flakes -- that looks like the first pitch of Beelzebub, 5.4. So you're around the Ethereal Crack/Children's Crusade/Three Saints part of the cliff. Larry, thanks, though I thought the moves there looked more .6-sh...the entire crack was running with water. ;-) nearby, back towards the slabs, I saw a prominent left-slanting dike that looked .7 -.8 ish in places, which traversed the face for about 50-70 feet to a tree ledge...THAT looked interesting. any ideas?
Left of Beelzebub is the Eradicate dike, two pitches, 5.7R. Not many folks climb that, probably for good reason. Its unprotected first 30' are the start to a very popular 5.9, Children's Crusade, which takes off up the unlikely looking wall above the dike.
Right of Beelzebub you've got some excellent little 10s and 11s, such as 7th Seal, Ethereal Crack and Future Shock. I'm not sure what the dike you mentioned is -- maybe not a named route? The only good "easy" route I can think of in that neighborhood, still farther right, is Short Order. It's about 5.8, but could be scary for a 5.8-max leader.
robbovius wrote: I'd never been to the south buttress before. sometimes I have to put the damn guidebooks down (becasue all those damned .9-and-up routes intimidate me and make me think there's nothing there at my level) and just go to the crag, look at it, and decide what looks climbable to me.
There's a fine 5.8 route farther up the S Buttress, Inferno, which understandably gets crowded. I think most parties choose to do Hotter Than Hell as its first pitch, which is slightly harder (5.9) but has a whole lotta bolts. Apart from the Beelzebub corner and another 5.4 called Beginner's Blessing, there's not much good climbing out there in low grades. The slabs (or other cliffs) have more of that.
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cracklover
Oct 22, 2007, 3:24 PM
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Larry, gorgeous pics!
All the pics are good, and it's nice to hear how everyone's weekends went.
Yep, Allison and I were up north too! Sadly, while Rumney was really quite pretty, and still in full bright-leaf mode, it's just not as photographically stunning, so not much to add to the Monday morning pics.
I was very happy to to tick off a two-month-long project at Rumney (Captain Hook). And Allison flashed a very nice route, too (Black Dog Crack). So in addition to the *gorgeous* weather, it was a good sending day.
GO
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robbovius
Oct 22, 2007, 5:25 PM
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cracklover wrote: Larry, gorgeous pics! All the pics are good, and it's nice to hear how everyone's weekends went. Yep, Allison and I were up north too! Sadly, while Rumney was really quite pretty, and still in full bright-leaf mode, it's just not as photographically stunning, so not much to add to the Monday morning pics. I was very happy to to tick off a two-month-long project at Rumney ( Captain Hook). And Allison flashed a very nice route, too ( Black Dog Crack). So in addition to the *gorgeous* weather, it was a good sending day. GO
SO then it WAS you and Allison that we passed on the way home. I called your cel and left a voice mail just after we went by...you didn't pick up though, so we just kept going.
I waved.
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jakedatc
Oct 22, 2007, 10:30 PM
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Nice Job Gabe! temps must have been awesome for that.. OC gets so much sun in the summer it's tough for those hard routes until fall. Black dog crack was the last route i did with Julia before she left for europe a few years back. good times. (mmm bolted/pin'd crack :) )
rode 28mi on the bike path yesterday.. i guess i'm taking a mini hiatus from climbing to ride more. My best option is LW and i've been come pretty burnt out on the place.... maybe kate and i will hit up the gym this weekend. haven't done that in a while.
Work is good though.. just takes up all that nice weekday time i used to have :)
Rob did the dike look like this? This is my favorite slab route i can't do yet :) Future Shock .11a bolted (dbyte on the sharp end there)
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 22, 2007, 10:34 PM)
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cracklover
Oct 22, 2007, 11:50 PM
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jakedatc wrote: Nice Job Gabe! temps must have been awesome for that.. OC gets so much sun in the summer it's tough for those hard routes until fall. Black dog crack was the last route i did with Julia before she left for europe a few years back. good times. (mmm bolted/pin'd crack :) )
Thanks, Jake! Actually, believe it or not, it was pretty warm yesterday. I was actually agreeing with your ideas about cold being good sending season. It was so warm, it felt like a nice lazy summer day, and I had a terrible time getting motivated. I buckled down and sent, just so as to not have to come back to that damn climb one more time!
Yeah, Black Dog Crack was very nice, both Allison and I agreed. And she likes cracks about as much as you do.
In reply to: This is my favorite slab route i can't do yet :) Future Shock .11a bolted (dbyte on the sharp end there)
Wait a minute - are you saying you actually want to climb a slab? I thought that was one step below cracks in your hated-climbing-styles list!
GO
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jakedatc
Oct 23, 2007, 1:14 AM
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oh... it is.. however Future shock just begs to be climbed and i one hanged it on TR when Derek led it. Though i down climbed from the first bolt when i thought about leading it with Chris (gymnastic) the day before we all did The Book.
Anyone here a biker? I have a pair of Sidi mtn bike shoes i got that didn't fit and am trying to find them a nice home. they are kick ass shoes (i got the road version now) they just didn't fit me.. 39.5 they'd fit a guy or girl really
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robbovius
Oct 23, 2007, 1:30 PM
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core wrote: Let us know how the next adventure is coming Rob!
Well, it's turing into a bit of an expedition, and I've been getting good prep info from the local folks over on NEclimbs.
the tentative - weather dependant - plan is to take of work 11/1 (coinciding with hte 11/2 9/80 friday,as part of my 52nd Bday celeb) and drive up to the Crawford Notch area early am, and find a campsite.
Now, I have two camping options: 1. go to one of the established campgournds in teh area (drove by several on my recon trip down 302 olast friday), or 2. really rough it by camping for free in the WMNF land relatively near the selected crag.
The first option is the easy choice, for the second option I'd have to set up 1/4 mile away from everything, and practice a high level of LNT, but it might put me closer to the crag (no driving), which would be pretty kewl (might be spooky overnight alone in them thar woods, eh?) . overnight parking in the trailhead pulloffs is allowed, though car sleeping is not.
this is the crag, and routes (props to Ambler for the inspiration)
this is the location in crawford notch. (props to jack Dorsey onm NEclimbs for the google earth image)
if the weather is wet and cold, it's not happening, but if the weather is relatively cooperative, I'll be doing my rope-solo thing. two 5-to-7 pitch 5.5s...looks good to me ;-)
Of course, if anyone else is interested/available and wants to partner up, lemme know.
Chad, how about I come down and grab your rope next saturday?
(This post was edited by robbovius on Oct 23, 2007, 1:35 PM)
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ambler
Oct 23, 2007, 3:45 PM
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Good luck, Rob. If it wuz me I'd stay in a campground -- picnic table, campfire & outhouse beats cold dirt and nothin'. But I've gotten soft, we're even more likely to seek out a dog-friendly motel.
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robbovius
Oct 23, 2007, 3:59 PM
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ambler wrote: Good luck, Rob. If it wuz me I'd stay in a campground -- picnic table, campfire & outhouse beats cold dirt and nothin'. But I've gotten soft, we're even more likely to seek out a dog-friendly motel.
I hear ya... I've been watching too much "Survivorman" perhaps? ;-)
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blueeyedclimber
Oct 24, 2007, 1:59 PM
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cracklover wrote: Larry, gorgeous pics! All the pics are good, and it's nice to hear how everyone's weekends went. Yep, Allison and I were up north too! Sadly, while Rumney was really quite pretty, and still in full bright-leaf mode, it's just not as photographically stunning, so not much to add to the Monday morning pics. I was very happy to to tick off a two-month-long project at Rumney ( Captain Hook). And Allison flashed a very nice route, too ( Black Dog Crack). So in addition to the *gorgeous* weather, it was a good sending day. GO
How is Captain Hook? I was looking at it on Saturday, but after working on one of my projects (Rap Echo) which I should have sent my second go, but didn't, goddamit!, I didn't feel I had enough gas to try a 12 at the end of the day. So instead, I opted for a redpoint of Buried Treasure, which is a really cool climb, btw.
Josh
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winkwinklambonini
Oct 24, 2007, 9:59 PM
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Anyone wanna' climb at Cathedrel this weekend? I'm looking to do the classics at the north end, including jack the ripper if it's dry. Maybe diedre and recombeast. Who knows about weather but I have to be there monday and tuesday for a conference, so I figured I'd go early.
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jakedatc
Oct 24, 2007, 10:44 PM
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Josh.. from the looks of it it's pretty technical and then pumpy at the end.
Buried treasure kicked my ass.. tho i was doing it in direct sunlight with the sun in my eyes so pulling onto the slab sucked.. then pulling onto the ledge below the crack sucked.. If you liked that then you should do both "pitches" of Black Mamba.. also very good
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Gotta remember to turn your hands inside-out eh? I'll try that next time. 
