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bighigaz
Oct 15, 2002, 5:54 PM
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Chris, I will definately agree with several people on the ACES... They HURT the back of your feet for a while. I used them for a full day when I first bought them, and my heels started to bleed! It hurt so bad I stopped climbing for the day. I recommend putting piece of tape (or two) on your heel for a while until the shoes are broken in, and the callouses on your heel thicken up a bit... But for the record, you chose a nice pair of shoes! Climb on!
James
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bretterick
Oct 22, 2002, 10:21 PM
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dont get your shoes wet, not only do they over streach too fast, the glue on the soles weakens and you will need to re-sole your shoes or get a new pair sooner. breaking your shoes in is a painfull process, but dont cheat, its not worth it
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gravical
Oct 25, 2002, 11:36 AM
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as long as you can spend a few hours in them without feeling like you want to untie and jump. The smaller the better, but you also do want to enjoy your sport
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maclimber
Oct 30, 2002, 3:42 PM
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On the topic of shoes... my son has started climbing in a gym. At what point do I buy shoes for him?
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coach
Oct 30, 2002, 7:33 PM
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You are the only one that can answer the question since you are the only one that knows how they really feel. Bottom line; if they hurt to much to climb then they are too tight, if they flop around on your foot so that you can't hold edges, they are too loose. Somewhere in between is ideal but it varies for each climber.
Climb On
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overlord
Oct 31, 2002, 1:37 PM
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i would also say too big. at forst i could only wear my stingers for about 10min.
CLIMB ON
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ranski
Nov 1, 2002, 10:35 PM
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A couple of things to consider about the Aces. First it is a lined shoe and won't stretch much over time as compared to an unlined shoe. Secondly, I recall them being a board lasted shoe. It this case it isn't as necessary for it to be so small as to bunch up your toes. This is not the case with a shoe that is NOT board lasted. These types of shoes should bunch up your big toe especially to provide a more rigid platform for you to edge on...as a general rule.
With that said, my first pair of shoes were aces and I bought them about a size and half smaller than my actual shoe size. By the time I got to the top of most single pitch routes I was yanking them off my feet to relieve the pain. Over time I developed open sores on my pinkie toes that would never heal. I have sinced switched to la Sportiva Ethos and went with 1/2 smaller than my street shoes and haven't really noticed a difference. My two cents...
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geoteck
Nov 1, 2002, 11:07 PM
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I just bought new shoes and they are 3.5 sizes smaller than street shoes. I've been climbing in them for three outings and I can already feel them getting better (although they still hurt and I can't wear them for more than 10 minutes). The point is, when they are finished stretching, they will still be nice a snug! If you get shoes that fit in the beginning, they will be too big before long (I did that with my last pair)
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bouldersocal
Nov 1, 2002, 11:25 PM
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in my opinon tight is good. I wear a size 11 street shoe and wear size 9 1/2 climbing shoe. Just wear them a lot and you should get used to it.
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texastechclimber
Nov 2, 2002, 12:28 AM
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Sounds to me like the shoes fit perfect for you. I just recently bought the Boreal Matrix and downsized 2 sizes. When I was breaking them in, the knuckles on my toes would bleed and I could only stand to wear them for about 15-20 minutes. Now I can wear them for about 30-40 minutes before I have to take them off. They edge incredibly well when they are that small for your feet. My last pair of shoes were sportivas and they were only downsized by 1 size. I have noticed a huge difference. My advice is, go as small as you possibly can.
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texastechclimber
Nov 2, 2002, 12:31 AM
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Sounds to me like the shoes fit perfect for you. I just recently bought the Boreal Matrix and downsized 2 sizes. When I was breaking them in, the knuckles on my toes would bleed and I could only stand to wear them for about 15-20 minutes. Now I can wear them for about 30-40 minutes before I have to take them off. They edge incredibly well when they are that small for your feet. My last pair of shoes were sportivas and they were only downsized by 1 size. I have noticed a huge difference. My advice is, go as small as you possibly can.
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campus
Nov 2, 2002, 1:30 AM
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what do you thing about getting a pair of shoes 3 sizes down of my regular climbing shoes, i wear 40 1/2 and the shoes that i want 37 1/2, they make my foot like a ballet shoe, i know i can step in any foot hold with accuracy, but the pain oohh the pain, they kill my foot in seconds. i dont know what to do. O by the way they are the dominator velcro great shoe, great great great.
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the_dodgester
Nov 2, 2002, 11:09 AM
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I think shoe size is entirely up to you. My first pair of shoes i bought about a year ago and were a 8 1/2 (i'm size ten). They were comfy to start off with and as i hadn't been climbing too long i thought they were a nice fit. They did exactly what i wanted them to as i wasn't doing any technical footwork. Now a year on they have stretched and I'm getting onto some more technical routes with smaller footholds and my scarpa helix was beginning to fail me. I went to two shops and tried on many different shoes. This time because i enjoy climbing and wouldn't give it up for the world I decided to buy a size 8 5.10 anasazi velcro, which were quite painful but just about bareable. The first time I wore them I could only just complete a climb then had to rip them off. The second time I wore them I could do two or three climbs and they aren't nearly as painful but i can edge loads better than i could in my 8 1/2 scarpa helix.
It really depends what you want to do in them. I would suggest that if you are only just starting out a nice comfy pair are probably better as they wont put you off the sport. Once you know you like climbing and progress onto more technical routes with smaller footholds then I would buy smaller tighter fitting shoes. Also I would say try lots of shoes on and find one that fits your foot. As my first pair didn't fit my heel properly, but my second pair fit my foot shape better.
[ This Message was edited by: the_dodgester on 2002-11-02 03:10 ]
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boulderpaul
Nov 2, 2002, 3:10 PM
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hey buddy stop complainig, my shoes are size 7.5 and i wear a size 10 shoe, deal with the pain, i cant even wear my shoes for 10 minutes!
[ This Message was edited by: boulderpaul on 2002-11-02 09:17 ]
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repseki
Nov 2, 2002, 4:22 PM
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my footfighters hurt after about ten minutes and my five.tens are good for about 45 minutes.
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memphis_rea
Nov 4, 2002, 10:21 AM
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Shoes can never be to tight
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earsen
Nov 25, 2002, 6:20 PM
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My 2 cents:
If you can bear the pain for the length of one climb, they fit. You don't have to wear them all day. I usually pull my heels out after every climb or two to give my feet a breather. I'm also fairly flat footed, and if you are too, it may be why your feet hurt - those radically arched shoes can really kill a flat footed person.
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buffjcs
Nov 25, 2002, 6:35 PM
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I wear a size 12 street and have a size 8.5 climbing shoe the first couple times out it was pure pain however after the break they have become great. loose shoes create problems with balence and stability for me so like to go ultra snug, the pain goes away after your first few times out.
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calpolyclimber
Nov 26, 2002, 9:05 AM
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I am a size 11.5 to 12 street, and wear size 9 in the 5.10 Spire shoes. The shoe is supposed to point your toes down somewhat, if you want it to really bite the rock. They are gonna hurt, but your feet will adapt. They will callus in the right places, and it will all work out fine.
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rocmonkey
Nov 26, 2002, 9:49 AM
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If you don't cry while wearing your climbing shoes they are too big.
That is what I was told and I wear a size 11 shoe but bought my climbing shoes two sizes smaller.
I can balance on the edge of a quarter, BUT, I'd have to bite my lip to wear them for an hour. They kill me!
Like I said no edge is too small though and they work just fine. Like they say: No Pain, No Gain!
breathe stone
R C
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holmeslovesguinness
Nov 26, 2002, 12:53 PM
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I've said it before, I'll say it again - take all the advice about getting climbing shoes more than one (U.S.) size down from your street shoe with a grain of salt. It depends a lot on personal preference and pain tolerance. Also, some shoes are just not meant to be worn that small. If you are banking on them stretching out to fit properly, make sure it's a shoe designed to stretch a lot (usually slip lasted, unlined shoes with leather uppers).
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topher
Nov 28, 2002, 5:50 AM
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cant stand in the, for more than 2 min, thats perfect!!! site on your couch and put them on, in a day or two they will be perfect. my ana velcros i cant walk in but i cant climb like a mofo in them!!! for real hard sport or bouldering you want them tight tight tight! this is because the more sensitive the shoe the less stiff it usaly is so if it causes your foot to tighten up then the shoe becomes nice and stiff for them small edges, but you still retain sensitivity. if your doing lots of all day trading you sound like you in the right place if they start to get uncomfortable after an houre or so. rember climbing shoes are not street shoes.
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mrhappy
Nov 28, 2002, 6:04 AM
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An hour! Hehehe - two climbs for me. The price you pay to feel the bleeding edge of a hold.
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