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Partner cracklover


Jun 21, 2009, 4:51 AM
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Aric's Alien break-fest
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For those of you interested in Aric's recent breaking of a bunch of Aliens, I did some work to collect some data on the effective angle of each cam he tested.

Edited to add: The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the center of the axle and the point of contact between the edge of the fixture at the moment before Aric began pulling.

Hopefully this pic will clarify. Depicted is the right side cam lobe, the axle, and the right side of the fixture. The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the axle and the fixture at the moment before the cam starts getting pulled.




Methodology:

I used the photos Aric scanned in of the cam lobes post-pulling, found here: http://www.shariconglobal.com/...cans/lobe_scans.html

Second, I ran these photos through the Dorrington software to obtain a theoretical center point. (found here: http://www.dorringtonclimbing.com

Third, I found the contact point for each lobe, using a combination of the photos Aric took of the cam placed in the jig, and the flat spot on the cam lobe. Wherever possible, I used the actual flat spot.

Fourth, I determined the effective cam angle in the jig for each lobe, and averaged them together. For each cam Aric put photos online, I used between two and four lobes. If the lobes were too bent, or if the results were identical across lobes, I did not use all four.

Lastly, I averaged these angles together to find the effective cam angle for each piece Aric tested.

The reasons these photos are more accurate to run through the Dorrington software are four-fold. First, because they are layed flat on a scanner, they are properly oriented to the "camera". Second, because the axle and nut are removed, leaving the axle hole in the same plane, the center of the stem cannot "appear" to be offset due to a slight change in camera angle. The center of the axle is exactly where it is. Third, the flat spot in the cam lobe shows exactly where the lobe contacted the fixture. This is much superior to the guesswork of looking at a photo of the cam in the fixture and trying to estimate where lobes that are hidden by the closer lobes are contacting the fixture. And lastly, in some cases, the different lobes were cammed quite different amounts. Looking at the cams after the fact made this obvious, and gave much more accurate readings on where the contact point is. I was then able to average the angles together.

With all that said, here is the raw data:


Code
sample  size       failure       angle   RATING 
Number mode %
7 black pulled 19.3 64%
24 black pulled 21.0 54%
22 blue pulled 13.0 83%
23 blue pulled 18.2 69%
6 clear pulled 18.8 90%
17 grey pulled 21.5 98%
19 grey pulled 21.8 105%
2 orange pulled 14.8 74%
4 purple pulled 21.7 81%
5 purple pulled 22.7 89%
14 red broke cable 19.7 101%
12 red broke cable 19.8 100%
15 red/silver pulled 19.3 113%
16 red/silver broke cable 19.5 117%
21 yellow pulled 17.2 105%
9 yellow pulled 18.3 94%
3 yellow braze 18.5 78%
20 yellow pulled 18.7 83%
8 yellow pulled 18.8 93%


Looks like within a cam size, there may be some correlation between angle and pullout force, such that the higher the angle, the lower the force. But I'm tired, and I haven't run the numbers.

Here are the pics:

http://s26.photobucket.com/...gles/?albumview=grid

GO


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 22, 2009, 6:47 PM)


villageidiot


Jun 21, 2009, 5:22 AM
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Are you guy's just not that into controls or trying to do meaningful work?


jt512


Jun 21, 2009, 5:26 AM
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villageidiot wrote:
Are you guy's just not that into controls or trying to do meaningful work?

Right question; wrong forum.

Jay


jt512


Jun 21, 2009, 5:30 AM
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cracklover wrote:
For those of you interested in Aric's recent breaking of a bunch of Aliens, I did some work to collect some data on the effective angle of each cam he tested.

Methodology:

I used the photos Aric scanned in of the cam lobes post-pulling, found here: http://www.shariconglobal.com/...cans/lobe_scans.html

Second, I ran these photos through the Dorrington software to obtain a theoretical center point. (found here: http://www.dorringtonclimbing.com

Third, I found the contact point for each lobe, using a combination of the photos Aric took of the cam placed in the jig, and the flat spot on the cam lobe. Wherever possible, I used the actual flat spot.

Fourth, I determined the effective cam angle in the jig for each lobe, and averaged them together. For each cam Aric put photos online, I used between two and four lobes. If the lobes were too bent, or if the results were identical across lobes, I did not use all four.

Lastly, I averaged these angles together to find the effective cam angle for each piece Aric tested.

The reasons these photos are more accurate to run through the Dorrington software are four-fold. First, because they are layed flat on a scanner, they are properly oriented to the "camera". Second, because the axle and nut are removed, leaving the axle hole in the same plane, the center of the stem cannot "appear" to be offset due to a slight change in camera angle. The center of the axle is exactly where it is. Third, the flat spot in the cam lobe shows exactly where the lobe contacted the fixture. This is much superior to the guesswork of looking at a photo of the cam in the fixture and trying to estimate where lobes that are hidden by the closer lobes are contacting the fixture. And lastly, in some cases, the different lobes were cammed quite different amounts. Looking at the cams after the fact made this obvious, and gave much more accurate readings on where the contact point is. I was then able to average the angles together.

With all that said, here is the raw data:


Code
sample  size       failure       angle   RATING 
Number mode %
7 black pulled 19.3 64%
24 black pulled 21.0 54%
22 blue pulled 13.0 83%
23 blue pulled 18.2 69%
6 clear pulled 18.8 90%
17 grey pulled 21.5 98%
19 grey pulled 21.8 105%
2 orange pulled 14.8 74%
4 purple pulled 21.7 81%
5 purple pulled 22.7 89%
14 red broke cable 19.7 101%
12 red broke cable 19.8 100%
15 red/silver pulled 19.3 113%
16 red/silver broke cable 19.5 117%
21 yellow pulled 17.2 105%
9 yellow pulled 18.3 94%
3 yellow braze 18.5 78%
20 yellow pulled 18.7 83%
8 yellow pulled 18.8 93%


Looks like within a cam size, there may be some correlation between angle and pullout force, such that the higher the angle, the lower the force. But I'm tired, and I haven't run the numbers.

Here are the pics:

http://s26.photobucket.com/...gles/?albumview=grid

GO

Gabe, have you been able to measure cam size? It will be difficult to control for the effect of cam size without such measurements. And without controlling for cam size, the analysis will be doomed.

Jay


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Jun 21, 2009, 6:08 AM
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What's the merit in reporting the average of the cam angles? I am not much of a math person, but I believe you need 5 degrees of freedom to predict the actual cam angle of a log spiral with the axle off center (2 DOF to describe the cam, 2 DOF to describe where the axle is in relationship to the center of the spiral, and 1 DOF to describe how open the cam is).


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Jun 21, 2009, 11:53 PM
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jt512 wrote:
Gabe, have you been able to measure cam size? It will be difficult to control for the effect of cam size without such measurements. And without controlling for cam size, the analysis will be doomed.

Jay

Nope, I have not measured cam size. Frankly, I neither see the point nor do I know what measurement you're looking for, or how you think I could get it.

If you want to know the volume of material that needs to be moved before reaching the 35 degree slipping point, you would need to know more than just some dimension whatever that single dimension is you're looking for.

GO


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Jun 22, 2009, 12:04 AM
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villageidiot wrote:
What's the merit in reporting the average of the cam angles?

Well, some of the cams appear to be pulling from the fixture when they flatten enough to create a 35 degree angle at the leading edge of the flat point.

So the theory is that if the cam starts with a higher angle, less force is required, because less metal has to be deformed.

In reply to:
I am not much of a math person, but I believe you need 5 degrees of freedom to predict the actual cam angle of a log spiral with the axle off center (2 DOF to describe the cam, 2 DOF to describe where the axle is in relationship to the center of the spiral, and 1 DOF to describe how open the cam is).

Sorry, could you try that again in plain English? Or else just tell me what you see wrong with the methodology I actually used.

Thanks,

GO


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Jun 22, 2009, 12:11 AM
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villageidiot wrote:
Are you guy's just not that into controls or trying to do meaningful work?

I am trying to contribute something meaningful. Are you?

As for not being into controls, I didn't do the experiment, so it's best if I don't comment on that. But even without controls, do you think it would be more "meaningful" to do an experiment but then not look at the data from that experiment?

But I'll say one thing about controls: You do realize that I'm analyzing pullout force, right? According to Aric no other cams he's tested (and he's tested a bunch) fail by means of pulling from his jig. So that makes it kind of hard to compare pullout forces between Aliens and non-Aliens (your controls), eh?

GO


jt512


Jun 22, 2009, 12:45 AM
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cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
Gabe, have you been able to measure cam size? It will be difficult to control for the effect of cam size without such measurements. And without controlling for cam size, the analysis will be doomed.

Jay

Nope, I have not measured cam size. Frankly, I neither see the point nor do I know what measurement you're looking for, or how you think I could get it.

If you want to know the volume of material that needs to be moved before reaching the 35 degree slipping point, you would need to know more than just some dimension whatever that single dimension is you're looking for.

GO

There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

As I explained before, I suspect that the importance of rated strength in the analysis is that it is a surrogate for radius of curvature. The smaller the radius, the less the cam has to deform for the cam angle to attain the critical angle. If I understand his post, Jfield has also stated here that the radius should be an important predictor of failure load. I explained very precisely what measure I was looking for. I was thinking you could get it off the scans, but now that I think about it, there was probably no scale on the scan.

Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 22, 2009, 1:27 AM)


gunkiemike


Jun 22, 2009, 2:22 AM
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cracklover wrote:
According to Aric no other cams he's tested (and he's tested a bunch) fail by means of pulling from his jig.

GO

As I recall, a blue Metolius TCU sheared out of the device.


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jt512 wrote:
There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

Not even among cams of the same size? Oh well.

In reply to:
Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Could you explain what you mean here? You're saying that the effective cam angle - the angle between the walls of the jig and the axle at the moment before testing, predicts the lobe hardness? That doesn't make sense. Surely I'm misunderstanding you.

In reply to:
Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Jay

And if you could clarify this as well, I'd be grateful.

GO


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Jun 22, 2009, 4:05 AM
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gunkiemike wrote:
cracklover wrote:
According to Aric no other cams he's tested (and he's tested a bunch) fail by means of pulling from his jig.

GO

As I recall, a blue Metolius TCU sheared out of the device.

Aha! Aric, have you tested any other small cams in the jig?

GO


jt512


Jun 22, 2009, 4:49 AM
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cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

Not even among cams of the same size? Oh well.

In reply to:
Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Could you explain what you mean here? You're saying that the effective cam angle - the angle between the walls of the jig and the axle at the moment before testing, predicts the lobe hardness? That doesn't make sense. Surely I'm misunderstanding you.

I'm saying that the observed post-test cam angle is probably primarily the consequence of the softness of the cam lobe. Softer lobes deform more.

In reply to:
Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Essentially, what this means is that, if you look at the correlation between scanned post-test angle and lobe hardness among cams of the same strength rating, the correlation is stronger than if you look at the correlation in the total sample. If that still doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll give it another shot tomorrow, before I've drunk a half bottle or red wine (for the health benefits, of course).

Jay


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jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

Not even among cams of the same size? Oh well.

In reply to:
Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Could you explain what you mean here? You're saying that the effective cam angle - the angle between the walls of the jig and the axle at the moment before testing, predicts the lobe hardness? That doesn't make sense. Surely I'm misunderstanding you.

I'm saying that the observed post-test cam angle is probably primarily the consequence of the softness of the cam lobe. Softer lobes deform more.

In reply to:
Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Essentially, what this means is that, if you look at the correlation between scanned post-test angle and lobe hardness among cams of the same strength rating, the correlation is stronger than if you look at the correlation in the total sample. If that still doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll give it another shot tomorrow, before I've drunk a half bottle or red wine (for the health benefits, of course).

Jay

Oh, so when you refer to the "post-test" angle, you're referring to the angles I measured from the leading edge of the flat spot. That was from another thread, nothing to do with this one. This measurement (also on images taken "post test") is of the estimated effective angles at the time of pulling.

GO


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cracklover wrote:
So the theory is that if the cam starts with a higher angle, less force is required, because less metal has to be deformed.
The cam angle and the deformation aren't totally independent. The smaller the cam angle the greater the force/pressure so deformation will occur at a lower applied force. I think that between the extremes of the measured cam angles there is about a factor of 2 difference in force.


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cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

Not even among cams of the same size? Oh well.

In reply to:
Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Could you explain what you mean here? You're saying that the effective cam angle - the angle between the walls of the jig and the axle at the moment before testing, predicts the lobe hardness? That doesn't make sense. Surely I'm misunderstanding you.

I'm saying that the observed post-test cam angle is probably primarily the consequence of the softness of the cam lobe. Softer lobes deform more.

In reply to:
Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Essentially, what this means is that, if you look at the correlation between scanned post-test angle and lobe hardness among cams of the same strength rating, the correlation is stronger than if you look at the correlation in the total sample. If that still doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll give it another shot tomorrow, before I've drunk a half bottle or red wine (for the health benefits, of course).

Jay

Oh, so when you refer to the "post-test" angle, you're referring to the angles I measured from the leading edge of the flat spot. That was from another thread, nothing to do with this one. This measurement (also on images taken "post test") is of the estimated effective angles at the time of pulling.

GO

Gabe, I'm using the angle data from your first post in this thread. Are you saying that those numbers are estimates of the pre-test effective angles? If so, then (1) the explanation in your first post is unclear and misleading, and (2) I need to rethink the implications of my results.

Jay


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jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
jt512 wrote:
There is no significant relation between scanned angle and failure load (p-value=0.42) or percentage of rated strength (p-value=0.62), after adjusting for rated strength.

Not even among cams of the same size? Oh well.

In reply to:
Edit: There is a significant negative correlation between post-test scanned angle and lobe hardness (r = -0.60, p-value = 0.01), suggesting that large post-test cam angles are the result of lobe softness. Post-test cam angle, therefore, probably isn't giving us much useful information.

Could you explain what you mean here? You're saying that the effective cam angle - the angle between the walls of the jig and the axle at the moment before testing, predicts the lobe hardness? That doesn't make sense. Surely I'm misunderstanding you.

I'm saying that the observed post-test cam angle is probably primarily the consequence of the softness of the cam lobe. Softer lobes deform more.

In reply to:
Edit2: The (partial) correlation is even stronger (r = -0.70, p-value = 0.002), after controlling for rated strength.

Essentially, what this means is that, if you look at the correlation between scanned post-test angle and lobe hardness among cams of the same strength rating, the correlation is stronger than if you look at the correlation in the total sample. If that still doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll give it another shot tomorrow, before I've drunk a half bottle or red wine (for the health benefits, of course).

Jay

Oh, so when you refer to the "post-test" angle, you're referring to the angles I measured from the leading edge of the flat spot. That was from another thread, nothing to do with this one. This measurement (also on images taken "post test") is of the estimated effective angles at the time of pulling.

GO

Gabe, I'm using the angle data from your first post in this thread. Are you saying that those numbers are estimates of the pre-test effective angles? If so, then (1) the explanation in your first post is unclear and misleading, and (2) I need to rethink the implications of my results.

Jay

Sorry if my OP was not clear. I've added the following to the OP to hopefully clarify exactly what I'm measuring:

The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the center of the axle and the point of contact between the edge of the fixture at the moment before Aric began pulling.

Hopefully this pic will clarify. Depicted is the right side cam lobe, the axle, and the right side of the fixture. The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the axle and the fixture at the moment before the cam starts getting pulled.



GO


jt512


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cracklover wrote:
Sorry if my OP was not clear. I've added the following to the OP to hopefully clarify exactly what I'm measuring:

The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the center of the axle and the point of contact between the edge of the fixture at the moment before Aric began pulling.

Hopefully this pic will clarify. Depicted is the right side cam lobe, the axle, and the right side of the fixture. The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the axle and the fixture at the moment before the cam starts getting pulled.



GO

Well, that makes the correlations I found difficult to interpret. Why would there be a strong (negative) correlation between pre-test cam angle and lobe hardness? Are you confident that you can accurately measure pre-test cam angle from scans of post-test cam lobes? Elsewhere, another poster (forgot his username) asserted that the cam angle measured from post-test images will be biased because the test will have caused displacement of the cam center. That would (I think) explain this correlation, and I can't think of any other reasonable explanation.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jun 29, 2009, 6:40 AM)


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jt512 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Sorry if my OP was not clear. I've added the following to the OP to hopefully clarify exactly what I'm measuring:

The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the center of the axle and the point of contact between the edge of the fixture at the moment before Aric began pulling.

Hopefully this pic will clarify. Depicted is the right side cam lobe, the axle, and the right side of the fixture. The angle I'm measuring is the angle between the axle and the fixture at the moment before the cam starts getting pulled.

[IMG]http://i42.tinypic.com/2hfqwc9.jpg[/IMG]

GO

Well, that makes the correlations I found difficult to interpret. Why would there be a strong (negative) correlation correlation between pre-test cam angle and lobe hardness? Are you confident that you can accurately measure pre-test cam angle from scans of post-test cam lobes? Elsewhere, another poster (forgot his username) asserted that the cam angle measured from post-test images will be biased because the test will have caused displacement of the cam center. That would (I think) explain this correlation, and I can't think of any other reasonable explanation.

Jay

Not sure, but I think you're referring to a post in which someone mentioned that the cam angle would be changed by the bending of the axle, which is irrelevant to the angle I'm measuring which is the *starting* angle.

So let me get this straight, you're saying the higher the starting cam angle, the softer the lobes?

Not only is it hard to see what would cause that, but I'm also not sure about your data. For example, two of the samples with the highest cam angles, (sample four and five, the two purple cams) had relatively hard lobes. And most of those with particularly hard lobes (9, 20, and 21) had average cam angles around 18 degrees.

GO

(edited for clarity)


(This post was edited by cracklover on Jun 22, 2009, 10:04 PM)


Partner cracklover


Jun 22, 2009, 9:31 PM
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Re: [adatesman] Aric's Alien break-fest [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
cracklover wrote:
According to Aric no other cams he's tested (and he's tested a bunch) fail by means of pulling from his jig.

Not quite... A pair of old U-stem camalots pulled from the fixture, but that was due to the divot in the lobes allowing the axles to flex further than they should have been able. And as Gunkie mentioned, the Blue TCU we tested while doing the Aliens also slipped from the fixture with a flattened lobe, but that occurred well above its rating. Most everything else I've done stayed put and broke in the fixture.

Thanks for the clarification. I think, in terms of controls, the main issue is around testing other small cams, since it seems that in Aliens the best predictor of whether the cam will slip out of the fixture at low loads is how small the cam is.

You can't prove that other cam designs don't suffer from the same "defect" (whether the defect is in the test setup or the cam design) by testing large cams from other manufacturers.

GO


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Jun 22, 2009, 9:40 PM
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glytch


Jun 22, 2009, 9:40 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Aric's Alien break-fest [In reply to]
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So, I think I have this straight: what you're trying to accomplish here is an examination of the relationship - if any - between initial effective cam angle and force at which the piece pulled.

My question is regarding step 2 of the process you outline. Why is the theoretical center point of the cam relevant if you're measuring instantaneous cam angle? As I see it, attempting to do this with the images of cam-in-fixture, you need to find the centerpoint of the axle (this will be tough to do well with the off-center pictures) and (to do this well) use a bit of projective geometry to find the angle formed between the lobe contact point and the actual center of the axle... I don't see where the theoretical center of the spiral comes into play.

My suspicion is that the angular difference will be sufficiently small between cams that attempting to measure it will yield results well within the margins of human error. Interestingly, most lobe centers seem to be off in such a way that the resultant change in cam angle will be relatively small in moderately contracted cam. I'd draw an image, but I'm lazy :)


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Jun 22, 2009, 10:02 PM
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Re: [glytch] Aric's Alien break-fest [In reply to]
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glytch wrote:
So, I think I have this straight: what you're trying to accomplish here is an examination of the relationship - if any - between initial effective cam angle and force at which the piece pulled.

Correct.

In reply to:
My question is regarding step 2 of the process you outline. Why is the theoretical center point of the cam relevant if you're measuring instantaneous cam angle?

Because if you draw a straight line from the theoretical middle of the spiral to the contact point, and a line from the actual middle to the contact point, you can measure the difference in the angle between those two lines to determine what the true angle in the fixture was. For example, on this cam:



The two angles are traced in in red. The angle from the dorrington center to the fixture would have been 16 degrees (by definition, since it's a 16 degree spiral). The angle from the middle of the axle was 3.5 degrees higher. So the true angle in the fixture was 19.5 (16 + 3.5) degrees.

Make sense?

In reply to:
As I see it, attempting to do this with the images of cam-in-fixture, you need to find the centerpoint of the axle (this will be tough to do well with the off-center pictures) and (to do this well) use a bit of projective geometry to find the angle formed between the lobe contact point and the actual center of the axle... I don't see where the theoretical center of the spiral comes into play.

I think you misunderstand. Hopefully after my explanation, things are a little more clear. The utility of the photos Aric took in the jig is simply to visually confirm where the contact point is on the edge of the cam lobes.

GO

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