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getting pumped too early, slow recovery between routes
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sogetthis


Nov 17, 2009, 12:10 AM
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getting pumped too early, slow recovery between routes
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In a nutshell, I feel like my arms are getting pumped a lot earlier than they should be given my fitness and climbing level, trying to figure out why.

Background is, been climbing about a year, I did first 6 months mostly bouldering and outdoor trad. I climb 3-4x a week, at least one day outdoors doing sport or trad. Indoors typically like 1.5 - 3 hours basically until my arms are just blown. I don't rest any longer than I have to and I'm not there to chat, I like to just go. Indoors doing fairly even split between bouldering, tr and leading, if anything more bouldering.

General fitness very high resting heart rate 43, I mountain bike and run lots (have for years), lots of core work, minor weight training, no body fat to speak of. I seem to be fairly strong, forearms got quite visibly burly from all the climbing. I'd say my technique is slightly above average for someone climbing as long as I've been.

If anything I'd say I climb a bit like a boulderer since that's what I stared with initially and still love a lot. I'm not so foolish as to attack an entire pitch that way and do pace, shake out, look for places to rest.

So as mentioned originally, I notice that near tops of pitches esp if it's a crux, I seem to just be way pumped. Even more so than a buddy I climb with who's technique I'd say isn't quite as good, is nowhere near as fit - he does climb a bit faster than me though.

Also I don't feel like I recover as fast as I should be, between routes.

One thing I'm musing about is I am something of a caffeine fiend :-D. I eat really healthy, but I do love my caffeine. I'm having 3-4 low sugar energy drinks or more sugary coffee drinks a day.

Seen some info about how caffeine can interfere with creatine, and I'd say for sure caffeine affects me a lot. If I go for a hard run or ride on my normal dosage I will have a much worse run/ride than if I just have a little, heart/blood pressure just going too hard.

So wonder if that could be it plus a lack of very specific endurance training, suggestions ? ;)


(This post was edited by sogetthis on Nov 17, 2009, 1:23 AM)


lithiummetalman


Nov 17, 2009, 12:45 AM
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Re: [sogetthis] getting pumped too early, and slow recovery [In reply to]
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Train hard, Rest even harder

Trainng to failure all the time will lead to failure.


crockstar


Nov 17, 2009, 1:09 AM
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I had the same problem, but then i tried using NO products and it helped tremendously. They allow me to climb harder and longer and recover faster, which seems to be what you're looking for.


west_by_god_virginia


Nov 17, 2009, 1:36 AM
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rest more. your barely giving ur muscles enough time to recover, much less build strength and endurance.....rest.


minibiter


Nov 17, 2009, 2:04 AM
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Make sure you're getting enough sleep.

Hangovers don't help recovery time.


johnwesely


Nov 17, 2009, 2:57 AM
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I have always heard caffeine makes you get pumped faster, but I don't have any credible sources to back that up.


pfwein


Nov 17, 2009, 3:11 AM
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This probably isn't what you want to hear, but it's likely genetic (or the product of some other basic, physiological condition over which you have no control). I climb with different people, often we train about the same, and it's pretty obvious one person will have more "genetic" endurance, maybe someone else will have more bouldering power, maybe someone will be better at everything and someone else be worse at everything.

Don't worry about comparing yourself to your buddy, even if you think you should have more endurance than he does.


mheyman


Nov 17, 2009, 4:27 AM
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I'm experiencing a similar situation, but the thing to remember in climbing is that everything you do poorly will make you think you are"weak" and get you pumped.

Technique, technique, technique...

I find having arms (muscle) doen't help when you get pumped - it just cuts blood supply all the more!


bill413


Nov 17, 2009, 4:29 AM
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sogetthis wrote:
General fitness very high resting heart rate 43
I'm impressed by this.

In reply to:
no body fat to speak of.
Some thought of energy reserves occurs to me. Could be irrelevant.

In reply to:
I seem to be fairly strong, forearms got quite visibly burly from all the climbing. I'd say my technique is slightly above average for someone climbing as long as I've been.

Possible overuse of arms & hands, to make them become "visibly burly?"

In reply to:
If anything I'd say I climb a bit like a boulderer

Yep - lot of arms.

In reply to:
Even more so than a buddy I climb with who's technique I'd say isn't quite as good, is nowhere near as fit - he does climb a bit faster than me though.

Perhaps re-examine what you think is good technique.

-----

Sounds to me like you need to use your arms less and learn to grip more lightly. Focus on your feet.
The top climbers (in general) are not tremendously burly (although they may be freaking strong).

Practice holding on as loosely as you can (expect to fall). Focus on using your legs to drive you, not your arms. Also, think about how you rest on holds to let yourself recover after moves.


currupt4130


Nov 17, 2009, 4:45 AM
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bill413 wrote:
Sounds to me like you need to use your arms less and learn to grip more lightly. Focus on your feet.
The top climbers (in general) are not tremendously burly (although they may be freaking strong).

Practice holding on as loosely as you can (expect to fall). Focus on using your legs to drive you, not your arms. Also, think about how you rest on holds to let yourself recover after moves.

This.


jt512


Nov 17, 2009, 4:56 AM
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So much bandwidth, so little value.

Jay


bill413


Nov 17, 2009, 1:21 PM
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jt512 wrote:
So much bandwidth, so little value.

Jay

Naturally. Look where we are.


shockabuku


Nov 17, 2009, 2:16 PM
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Re: [sogetthis] getting pumped too early, slow recovery between routes [In reply to]
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How goes your warm up phase?


Myxomatosis


Nov 17, 2009, 2:24 PM
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Ok.. heres a thought... Technique.

One of the thing that Ive learnt recently that has really clicked is to pace yourself. Dont get frustrated or panic'y in a bad situation, stay calm, keep breathing and take as many rests as you can where ever you can.

Control your heart rate and pump like you were running a marathon. There is no point going for broke over the first 5m's of a climb when you have another 15 to go. So just pace yourself, be patient and climb the moves when you feel your arms are ready.


aerili


Nov 17, 2009, 7:42 PM
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sogetthis wrote:
Seen some info about how caffeine can interfere with creatine, and I'd say for sure caffeine affects me a lot. If I go for a hard run or ride on my normal dosage I will have a much worse run/ride than if I just have a little, heart/blood pressure just going too hard.

So wonder if that could be it plus a lack of very specific endurance training, suggestions ? ;)

Caffeine typically enhances endurance exercise.

As for caffeine interfering with creatine, some of the research is really interesting, but it's not like overwhelming evidence out there. So...keep that in mind.

Muscle fiber type composition in your forearms vs your friend's may just not be the same. He may have a mix that's more conducive to local endurance than you do right from the get-go, regardless of other general fitness or technique issues.

Keep in mind that climbing "until your arms are just blown" isn't necessarily the ticket to optimally improving your local endurance either. "More" does not always equal "better."

Pumpage can also have a psychological factor to it.... I have no idea if this is the case with you.

Once you're good and warmed up and you start feeling pumped, try stretching your forearms when you get a rest position. Stretching should help "thin" the muscles and thus reduce compression on the local blood vessels. It's not a magic fix, but it should help to some degree.


shimanilami


Nov 17, 2009, 8:04 PM
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Re: [sogetthis] getting pumped too early, slow recovery between routes [In reply to]
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You're right. Climbing is easy and you should be much better by now. I mean, look at how fit you are.

Genetics. Must be.


pfwein


Nov 17, 2009, 9:35 PM
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aerili wrote:
Once you're good and warmed up and you start feeling pumped, try stretching your forearms when you get a rest position. Stretching should help "thin" the muscles and thus reduce compression on the local blood vessels. It's not a magic fix, but it should help to some degree.

Are you talking about stretching as an alternative to shaking out on a route, between routes, or both, or neither?

What specific stretches (and more generally stretching protocols) do you have in mind?


pfwein


Nov 17, 2009, 9:44 PM
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shimanilami wrote:
You're right. Climbing is easy and you should be much better by now. I mean, look at how fit you are.

Genetics. Must be.

Probably but not necessarily. Could be embryonic or early-childhood development related.

From the user's point of view, however, he may as well just say genetics and be done with it. Sounds like he has a great training program and is fit as a fiddle, but his endurance still sucks. He may be able to tweak things a bit to get some slight improvements, but he's clearly constrained by physiology. If he wasn't, he wouldn't have a problem.

All he can do is make the best of a bad situation. Stick to bouldering, or just deal with fact that he probably won't be able to ever do difficult routes (except perhaps for those that climb like boulder problems).


shimanilami


Nov 17, 2009, 9:57 PM
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Word.

I have to admit, he's a lot like me. If it wasn't for my genetics, I would have climbed Jumbo Love long ago. (Sharma has it easy.)

Oh well. As pointless as it might be, I've got no other option than to train. I once heard that there are books on the subject, but books are for nerds. Seriously, if you had guns like mine, you'd agree.


CSC0321


Nov 17, 2009, 11:37 PM
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crockstar wrote:
I had the same problem, but then i tried using NO products and it helped tremendously. They allow me to climb harder and longer and recover faster, which seems to be what you're looking for.

Wow. You didn't even attempt to cover up the fact that you work for them. Good plug


altelis


Nov 17, 2009, 11:56 PM
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CSC0321 wrote:
crockstar wrote:
I had the same problem, but then i tried using NO products and it helped tremendously. They allow me to climb harder and longer and recover faster, which seems to be what you're looking for.

Wow. You didn't even attempt to cover up the fact that you work for them. Good plug

my favorite is the name: clearly the name is supposed to be c rockstar.....but to me i see "crock star".....


mleogrande


Nov 18, 2009, 4:29 AM
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Are you warming up before hard routes?
Warming up too fast will give you a what's called a flash pump.
Are you overgripping when climbing?
Are you using proper technique and footwork to alleviate forearm stress?
Are you taking the time to find rest/shake-out points on a climb?


jt512


Nov 18, 2009, 5:08 AM
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So, the group has narrowed the OP's problem down to the following.

He is either overtraining or undertraining, or else he is genetically prone to fatigue, or his diet or sleep habits are wrong. Worse yet, his fatigue might be the result of psychosis, or simply psychosomatic; that is, he might only think he is tired. One possible manifestation of psychological distress is fear, which may be causing him to hold his breath.

If the problem is not genetic or psychological, it may be due to early development, either in the womb, or shortly after birth. Of course, developmental problems do not rule out genetic or psychological causes. Who knows, any two of these, or possibly all three, could be affecting his performance.

He may need more supplements, or fewer; his caffeine intake might be hurting his performance. Either that, or it's helping it, although we cannot rule out the possibility that it has no effect. Ditto for alcohol.

Warm ups are another area of concern: he may not be warming up sufficiently, or, worse yet, doing too many warm-ups, leading to fatigue. Similarly, the possibility that he is doing the right number of warm-ups, but at the wrong grade cannot be overlooked; however, whether his warm-up grade is too high or too low cannot be ascertained.

Overgripping is another possibility. His technique may be poor, his footwork sloppy, or he may be climbing too dynamically or too statically. Alternatively, his pacing may be off, although, based on limited data, we cannot say with confidence whether his pace is too fast or too slow, or if he is not finding good rests, or, possibly, finding rests, but not actually resting at the rests. Stretching at rests may reduce fatigue, but the evidence for this is limited and inconclusive. It can't hurt to try, but, you never know, it might anyway.

Jay


pfwein


Nov 18, 2009, 6:03 AM
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jt512 wrote:
So, the group has narrowed the OP's problem down to the following.

He is either overtraining or undertraining, or else he is genetically prone to fatigue, or his diet or sleep habits are wrong. Worse yet, his fatigue might be the result of psychosis, or simply psychosomatic; that is, he might only think he is tired. One possible manifestation of psychological distress is fear, which may be causing him to hold his breath.

If the problem is not genetic or psychological, it may be due to early development, either in the womb, or shortly after birth. Of course, developmental problems do not rule out genetic or psychological causes. Who knows, any two of these, or possibly all three, could be affecting his performance.

He may need more supplements, or fewer; his caffeine intake might be hurting his performance. Either that, or it's helping it, although we cannot rule out the possibility that it has no effect. Ditto for alcohol.

Warm ups are another area of concern: he may not be warming up sufficiently, or, worse yet, doing too many warm-ups, leading to fatigue. Similarly, the possibility that he is doing the right number of warm-ups, but at the wrong grade cannot be overlooked; however, whether his warm-up grade is too high or too low cannot be ascertained.

Overgripping is another possibility. His technique may be poor, his footwork sloppy, or he may be climbing too dynamically or too statically. Alternatively, his pacing may be off, although, based on limited data, we cannot say with confidence whether his pace is too fast or too slow, or if he is not finding good rests, or, possibly, finding rests, but not actually resting at the rests. Stretching at rests may reduce fatigue, but the evidence for this is limited and inconclusive. It can't hurt to try, but, you never know, it might anyway.

Jay


Hmmm, the OP has certainly got his work cut out for him in trying to isolate his problem(s).

My own experiences in going to gyms over a number of years: except for beginners and people who are still on their initial upward progression, people don't change much in ability. I don't go the gyms in the summer, then go back in the winter, and see all the same old people climbing about the same (myself included).

Most of these people are at least moderately intelligent (as measured by societal norms such as educational attainments, well developed language skills, etc.), seem to be motivated to improve their climbing, and seem to be going to the gym primarily to improve their climbing (OK ogling members of the opposite sex plays a role too).

Yet they stay pretty much the same.

That's why I feel pretty confident in the genetic (or similar physiological condition) theory: if improvement simply required changing mental state, warm up regime, or relatively simple technique adjustments, I'd expect people to catch on and then see more improvement ,and not to see so many people stuck in the mid 5.11 range, essentially permanently.

Notwithstanding the above, when I went the gym this evening, I did try to concentrate on intentionally gripping only tightly enough to avoid falling--it seemed to help a bit and may be worth working on (for me). I'm someone who boulders harder than I climb routes. Maybe in max bouldering you're pretty much holding on as hard as you can all the time anyway, and so the flaw of overgripping doesn't lessen bouldering ability much.


aerili


Nov 18, 2009, 6:31 AM
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jt512 wrote:
So, the group has narrowed the OP's problem down to the following.

He is either overtraining or undertraining, or else he is genetically prone to fatigue, or his diet or sleep habits are wrong. Worse yet, his fatigue might be the result of psychosis, or simply psychosomatic; that is, he might only think he is tired. One possible manifestation of psychological distress is fear, which may be causing him to hold his breath.

If the problem is not genetic or psychological, it may be due to early development, either in the womb, or shortly after birth. Of course, developmental problems do not rule out genetic or psychological causes. Who knows, any two of these, or possibly all three, could be affecting his performance.

He may need more supplements, or fewer; his caffeine intake might be hurting his performance. Either that, or it's helping it, although we cannot rule out the possibility that it has no effect. Ditto for alcohol.

Warm ups are another area of concern: he may not be warming up sufficiently, or, worse yet, doing too many warm-ups, leading to fatigue. Similarly, the possibility that he is doing the right number of warm-ups, but at the wrong grade cannot be overlooked; however, whether his warm-up grade is too high or too low cannot be ascertained.

Overgripping is another possibility. His technique may be poor, his footwork sloppy, or he may be climbing too dynamically or too statically. Alternatively, his pacing may be off, although, based on limited data, we cannot say with confidence whether his pace is too fast or too slow, or if he is not finding good rests, or, possibly, finding rests, but not actually resting at the rests. Stretching at rests may reduce fatigue, but the evidence for this is limited and inconclusive. It can't hurt to try, but, you never know, it might anyway.

It's too bad Jay doesn't get paid for snarkiness and adding his own smartass context to statements; he would be a millionaire. Maybe in his next life he'll think ahead and work out a better deal.





pfwein wrote:
Are you talking about stretching as an alternative to shaking out on a route, between routes, or both, or neither?

What specific stretches (and more generally stretching protocols) do you have in mind?
Do both. There's not a lot of specificity when it comes to stretching your forearms: just pull hand into extension and hold. Repeat as you see fit.

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