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junkie
Dec 17, 2002, 6:43 PM
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Hi all,
Just trying to compile a list of all teh hardest trad lines in the world. All the knowledge of the www.rockclimbing.com forum is sought.
What I've got so far:
Magic Line, Ron Kauk, 14b
Bellavista, Alex Huber, 14b
Equilibrium E10 7a F8b/+, 14 a/b
Doctor Doolittle, John Arran, E10 7a F8b, 13d
Lost Horizons: Rob Candilera (sp?), 14a
Grand Illusion: Tony Yaniro, 13c
Smoked Salmon, Johnny Dawes, E8 7a/b, 13d
Thanks for any and all help. All I'm after is TRAD climbs from 13d and up.
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pbjosh
Dec 17, 2002, 7:30 PM
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If you're going for 13d+ there are some more in CA that I know of:
Stingray 13d PG, jtree, Hidetaki Suzuki
Dihedron 14a, jtree, Randy Leavitt
Book of Hate, 13d, yos, Randy Leavitt
The Nose, 13d-14b, yos, Lynn Hill
There're some stout ones in Utah as well, there's Belly Full of Bad Berries (13c/d OW I believe) and Dean Potter's new route, though I don't know what it's rated and can't remember what it's called.
In Colorado there's Country Boy, 13d, Tommy Caldwell
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rockprodigy
Dec 17, 2002, 7:57 PM
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You gotta include the East Face of Monkey Face 13c/d at Smith Rock. It was the hardest in the US for over a year.
Also I heard that the South Face of Washington Column was recently freed at 14a.
There was an article in R&I about 5 or 6 years ago that had all of the hardest trad routes at the time.
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polarwid
Dec 17, 2002, 8:52 PM
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[small]This topic was moved to the Climbing History & Trivia forum by polarwid[/small]
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junkie
Dec 17, 2002, 9:33 PM
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Does anyone know of any from abroad? Europe? Australia? Any TRAD lines 13d and up world wide?
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junkie
Dec 18, 2002, 4:49 PM
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I did not put the Nose on the list, as Lynn Hill called it 13b at the time of the ascent. Until that changes, 13b is what it's at.
As for Bellyfull of Bad Berries, I thought it was 13a or b.
Could someone confirm the grade of Bellyfull?
What about Australia? Any trad lines 31 and over down under? C'mon, there have gotta be some hardmen down there pushing the trad. France? Oh. Sorry, all the lines are bolted... Germany? Anyone else....????
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tigerbythetail
Dec 22, 2002, 4:26 PM
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In Oz there is -
Whistling Kite(31) a thin crack at Frog Butress by Paul Smith (UK)
Serpentine(30/31) mixed route at Mt. Stapylton by Malcolm Matheson (OZ)
Honorable mention to -
Ozymandias (29) 8 pitches/300 meters at Mt. Buffalo by Steve Monks (UK)
[ This Message was edited by: tigerbythetail on 2002-12-22 08:59 ]
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junkie
Dec 23, 2002, 6:22 PM
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Unfortunately I've climbed Serpentine. It's only 28/29.
But Whistling Kite is on my list!
Thanks!
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marks
Dec 23, 2002, 6:42 PM
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ultimate sculpture-e8 7a
a little particular-e6 7b
thing on a spring-e6 7a
against the grain-e6 7a
all in staffordshire,uk.
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hallm
Dec 23, 2002, 7:29 PM
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FYI, according to reports, the 14a pitch on the South Face of the Column is the Kor Roof, which is sport bolted. If I remember correctly, the rest of the route goes at easy 12.
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coclimber26
Dec 26, 2002, 8:31 PM
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Isn't bellavista in italy a 14a/b? put up by alex huber?
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rockprodigy
Dec 26, 2002, 8:54 PM
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Oh yeah, and another one is Steve Petro's "Fiddler on the Roof" in Fremont Canyon, Wyoming. It's supposedly 13d and hasn't been repeated. It looks funking hard.
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crack_head
Mar 3, 2003, 11:31 PM
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welcome to ole kentuck 5.13c
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kinz
Mar 3, 2003, 11:59 PM
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what is the route that went up in the UK a couple months ago that was arguably a 14d or maybe slightly harder? i remember if you fell at the crux the belayer had to start running down the hill to keep the climber from decking and even then it was a close call due to such a long run out.
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kinz
Mar 3, 2003, 11:59 PM
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what is the route that went up in the UK a couple months ago that was arguably a 14d or maybe slightly harder? i remember if you fell at the crux the belayer had to start running down the hill to keep the climber from decking and even then it was a close call due to such a long run out.
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iamthewallress
Mar 4, 2003, 1:05 AM
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Did Scott Burke ever offer up a # for the Nose?
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iamthewallress
Mar 4, 2003, 1:09 AM
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The controversial crux on the Direct on Half Dome is rated 5.13d.
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moeman
Mar 4, 2003, 1:19 AM
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What about that 5.13 crack rout T. Caldwell set up in Colorado? Was that trad?, and anyone know the rating?
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mungeclimber
Mar 4, 2003, 1:42 AM
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In reply to: You gotta include the East Face of Monkey Face 13c/d at Smith Rock. It was the hardest in the US for over a year. Also I heard that the South Face of Washington Column was recently freed at 14a. There was an article in R&I about 5 or 6 years ago that had all of the hardest trad routes at the time.
East Face of Monkey Face I thought was bolted by bouldering the moves out bolt to bolt???
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caseyhyer
Mar 6, 2003, 7:28 PM
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Scott Burke told me he thought it was a 14a. He spent over 300 days on it and did it on top rope last I knew. I haven't seen him for a few years.
Scott Carson from IME has done some super hard cracks just north of Lake powell
He did one that was around 13c/d and red pointed while placing.
That is also were noway jose is 13d
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me_lad
Mar 6, 2003, 8:31 PM
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Recently Adrian Berry sent BLIND VISION E10 7b.
Which is a contender for hardest trad line ever with Ron Kauk's Magic line.
Its in england somewhere at frogatt or somewhere..
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camhead
Mar 6, 2003, 8:55 PM
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As I recall, Belly Full of Bad Berries is an easy 5.13...
I agree with Kinz, we need some of the Brits to represent their Gritstone in this thread.
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bvb
Mar 6, 2003, 9:21 PM
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gee, did consensus ratings ever settle out for the van belle cracks (vanbelladrome, the van belle syndrome) in yosemite? they were both in the high 5.13 range last time i checked.
let's check with ronamick...i'm sure he's done them both :roll:
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phoenix
Mar 7, 2003, 12:25 AM
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Located at Index, WA is a dead vertical/overhanging finger wrenching crack call City Park: this crack has only seen two lead ascents. Skinner rated it 13.C, but after 17 years and only two ascents...I'm thinking it might be a little harder. :shock: Has anyone heard of a third ascent?
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arsenalcrater
Mar 7, 2003, 1:47 AM
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Yeah, I think that route you are asking (Tommy Caldwell) is called T.H.I.O.. The "Honeymoon is Over. I think he rated it at 13c. Pretty smooth for that elevation...it's on the Diamond of Long's Peak...and I think he did it with no falls. If I'm wrong about the beta I still won't apologize, 'cause that's a pretty damn good accomplishment. Also, wasn't there a 13c/d put up on the Eiger a few years ago by a husband/wife team???
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