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petsfed
Dec 1, 2011, 9:26 PM
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IsayAutumn wrote: You're welcome.
Should be a PM
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dudemanbu
Dec 2, 2011, 2:30 AM
Post #77 of 111
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"years" to climb 5.10? My girlfriend was climbing 5.11 WITHIN a year. What planet do you live on?
IsayAutumn wrote: shockabuku wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: johnwesely wrote: I didn't do it, but I don't think it is such a bad idea. Climbing would be much better off if all the sport routes, sans the classics, under 5.10 or maybe 5.11 were chopped. This is, frankly, offensive. Who died and make you pope of this dump? I'm sure you started off leading 5.11 sport climbs, or leading gear on trad, but most people do not, idiot. You are really an idiot, it makes my mind spot hurt. I refuse to even read the rest of this thread, as I'm sure you've embarrassed yourself more, dumby. Your "mind spot"? What is that? The place where your mind should be (but apparently isn't)? Are you supporting this garbage bag? To think that he would chop all bolts on below 5.10 or whatevers, that is obseen. Climbers have to start somewhere. Even me, who everyone said was a natural, started at 5.8. It takes years to climb 5.10s, let alone do routes on trad. Where will people learn? |
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guangzhou
Dec 2, 2011, 2:37 AM
Post #78 of 111
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dudemanbu wrote: "years" to climb 5.10? My girlfriend was climbing 5.11 WITHIN a year. What planet do you live on? IsayAutumn wrote: shockabuku wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: johnwesely wrote: I didn't do it, but I don't think it is such a bad idea. Climbing would be much better off if all the sport routes, sans the classics, under 5.10 or maybe 5.11 were chopped. This is, frankly, offensive. Who died and make you pope of this dump? I'm sure you started off leading 5.11 sport climbs, or leading gear on trad, but most people do not, idiot. You are really an idiot, it makes my mind spot hurt. I refuse to even read the rest of this thread, as I'm sure you've embarrassed yourself more, dumby. Your "mind spot"? What is that? The place where your mind should be (but apparently isn't)? Are you supporting this garbage bag? To think that he would chop all bolts on below 5.10 or whatevers, that is obseen. Climbers have to start somewhere. Even me, who everyone said was a natural, started at 5.8. It takes years to climb 5.10s, let alone do routes on trad. Where will people learn?
Guess it depend on how you define climbing 5.11. By my definition, someone why says they climb 5.11 need to be able to climb 5.11 consistently in various areas. From slab to cracks, to overhanging.
Me, I consider myself a solid 5.9 climber. Yes, I've onsigther routes harder, both sport and trad, but I can think of several 5.10's off the top of my head that I won't get on.
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sungam
Dec 2, 2011, 3:02 AM
Post #79 of 111
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dudemanbu wrote: "years" to climb 5.10? My girlfriend was climbing 5.11 WITHIN a year. What planet do you live on?
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notapplicable
Dec 2, 2011, 3:38 AM
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sungam wrote: dudemanbu wrote: "years" to climb 5.10? My girlfriend was climbing 5.11 WITHIN a year. What planet do you live on? Sure "climbing 5.11", I'm sure. More like top-rope-hanging featherbagged .10ds. comeon big 100!
Seriously. I think the question is what planet is HE living on?
I've been climbing for 7-8 years and I'm pretty stoked to now be at a point where I can consistantly three hang 5.10c
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caughtinside
Dec 2, 2011, 4:13 AM
Post #81 of 111
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johnwesely wrote: shockabuku wrote: It's undoubtedly difficult to appreciate the quality of sub 5.10 routes from such a lofty vantage as yours. Some of my favorite routes are sub 5.10, but sub 5.10 sport routes are nearly always awful.
The best trolls always have the kernel of truth. And the truth is... sub 5.10 sport routes are nearly always awful. I think I can think of 2 that I have done that I would consider quality.
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climbingtrash
Dec 2, 2011, 6:53 AM
Post #82 of 111
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sungam wrote: JohnCook wrote: Love the idea that open shuts are "unpleasant or offensive"! I think all lower-offs are unpleasent AND offensive. If you are rock-climbing then the idea is to get to the TOP of the cliff. Top out or you are just jerking off. Sekrit hidden message>>>come onnnn, just 40 more posts....
J3rking oft on teh tops of cliffs sickens and offends meh!
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climbingtrash
Dec 2, 2011, 6:54 AM
Post #83 of 111
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shockabuku wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: johnwesely wrote: I didn't do it, but I don't think it is such a bad idea. Climbing would be much better off if all the sport routes, sans the classics, under 5.10 or maybe 5.11 were chopped. This is, frankly, offensive. Who died and make you pope of this dump? I'm sure you started off leading 5.11 sport climbs, or leading gear on trad, but most people do not, idiot. You are really an idiot, it makes my mind spot hurt. I refuse to even read the rest of this thread, as I'm sure you've embarrassed yourself more, dumby. Your "mind spot"? What is that? The place where your mind should be (but apparently isn't)?
 Zing!
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Gmburns2000
Dec 2, 2011, 12:42 PM
Post #84 of 111
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caughtinside wrote: johnwesely wrote: shockabuku wrote: It's undoubtedly difficult to appreciate the quality of sub 5.10 routes from such a lofty vantage as yours. Some of my favorite routes are sub 5.10, but sub 5.10 sport routes are nearly always awful. The best trolls always have the kernel of truth. And the truth is... sub 5.10 sport routes are nearly always awful. I think I can think of 2 that I have done that I would consider quality.
Even as someone who sucks at climbing (redpointed one 5.11 and onsighted no harder than 10c), I agree. It's part of the reason why I don't like Rumney that much, for instance. I can't climb the good routes there and the routes I can climb get really boring really quickly (and when one has to put up with the riff-raff on top of that, well, eyes roll). I can say the same for Shelf, Red Rocks, the New, and Boulder Canyon.
I haven't been to a lot of sport crags, so I can't comment more, but with the exception of the New, the best routes I've climbed at all of those locations were 5.10 or harder. As for the New, I simply can't leave Flight of the Gumby off the list of sub-5.10 climbs that are good.
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sp115
Dec 2, 2011, 12:48 PM
Post #85 of 111
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johnwesely wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: shockabuku wrote: IsayAutumn wrote: johnwesely wrote: I didn't do it, but I don't think it is such a bad idea. Climbing would be much better off if all the sport routes, sans the classics, under 5.10 or maybe 5.11 were chopped. This is, frankly, offensive. Who died and make you pope of this dump? I'm sure you started off leading 5.11 sport climbs, or leading gear on trad, but most people do not, idiot. You are really an idiot, it makes my mind spot hurt. I refuse to even read the rest of this thread, as I'm sure you've embarrassed yourself more, dumby. Your "mind spot"? What is that? The place where your mind should be (but apparently isn't)? Are you supporting this garbage bag? To think that he would chop all bolts on below 5.10 or whatevers, that is obseen. Climbers have to start somewhere. Even me, who everyone said was a natural, started at 5.8. It takes years to climb 5.10s, let alone do routes on trad. Where will people learn? This really is the gift that keeps on giving.
You have truly out-done yourself with this one. A simple "modest proposal" and look what happens.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 2, 2011, 11:52 PM
Post #86 of 111
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It should only take one good Summer and Fall to learn 5.10's...leading is a whole other entity.
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johnwesely
Dec 2, 2011, 11:54 PM
Post #87 of 111
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fluffybynomeans wrote: It should only take one good Summer and Fall to learn 5.10's...leading is a whole other entity.
If you can toprope it, you can lead it.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 2, 2011, 11:57 PM
Post #88 of 111
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There are a heck of a lot of good sub 5.10 climbs out there. Take the Gunks' "High Exposure" - (5.6) for instance, as well as almost anything out in that area over 5.4. Most of everything is over hanging with a roof. Those are fun! I can list 100's that i've done under 5.10 that were fun.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 3, 2011, 12:02 AM
Post #89 of 111
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I agree John, but there is a learning curve. I just disagree with bolted routes and the attitude that hangs below them. I guess i'm just ol'school. Like i said, it's a false sense of security with bolts.
Why the heck is everyone into taking short cuts?
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redlude97
Dec 3, 2011, 12:20 AM
Post #90 of 111
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fluffybynomeans wrote: There are a heck of a lot of good sub 5.10 climbs out there. Take the Gunks' "High Exposure" - (5.6) for instance, as well as almost anything out in that area over 5.4. Most of everything is over hanging with a roof. Those are fun! I can list 100's that i've done under 5.10 that were fun.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 3, 2011, 12:23 AM
Post #91 of 111
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fluffybynomeans wrote: There are a heck of a lot of good sub 5.10 climbs out there. Take the Gunks' "High Exposure" - (5.6) for instance, as well as almost anything out in that area over 5.4. Most of everything is over hanging with a roof. Those are fun! I can list 100's that i've done under 5.10 that were fun.
The discussion is about bolted routes, not routes.
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donald949
Dec 3, 2011, 12:39 AM
Post #92 of 111
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johnwesely wrote: fluffybynomeans wrote: It should only take one good Summer and Fall to learn 5.10's...leading is a whole other entity. If you can toprope it, you can lead it.
Problem Solved.
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6pacfershur
Dec 3, 2011, 12:52 AM
Post #93 of 111
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IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun
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guangzhou
Dec 3, 2011, 1:02 AM
Post #94 of 111
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fluffybynomeans wrote: I agree John, but there is a learning curve. I just disagree with bolted routes and the attitude that hangs below them. I guess i'm just ol'school. Like i said, it's a false sense of security with bolts. Why the heck is everyone into taking short cuts?
Old school or not, you have to admit that bolted routes have opened a lot of new ground that was not and is not protectable with removable gear.
Many of them being multi-pitch are to tall for top-rope too. I'm primarily a trad climber too, but I also enjoy clipping bolts on sport routes.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 3, 2011, 1:40 AM
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Been in it since almost the beginning dude. I know what was said.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 3, 2011, 1:42 AM
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I know that guy. If you read more closely it's pertinent.
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fluffybynomeans
Dec 3, 2011, 1:44 AM
Post #97 of 111
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What if you are TR'ing it from the 8th pitch mate? Someone has to lead it.
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johnwesely
Dec 3, 2011, 2:16 AM
Post #98 of 111
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6pacfershur wrote: IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun
If its boring, its not fun.
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climbingtrash
Dec 3, 2011, 2:28 AM
Post #99 of 111
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johnwesely wrote: 6pacfershur wrote: IMHO, any time i hear someone say that "climbing this/that is boring", even some goofy TR, i think they have lost sight of the simple fact that its supposed to be fun........simple, mad fun If its boring, its not fun.
Chorping bolts iz boring and knot fun. Guess awl those population problem roots are going to live to see another day.
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climbingtrash
Dec 3, 2011, 2:28 AM
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But will this thread live to see another page?
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