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CallumKX
Sep 4, 2013, 7:17 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2013
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I can climb a 5.10c to a 5.11a at most. Whats really shutting me down are the steep stuff and the over hangs. I usually train bouldering then apply it to the sport climb. I m aware of the outside edge, twist lock, rock over and drop knee but i only know how to use the rock over and and outside edge effectively. The twist lock and drop knee is some what new to me and i only know them in theory and dont know when to apply it or apply it effectively. My climbing gym has an artificial cave for bouldering so i can do roof problems etc. any help would be appreciated. Maybe you guys can recommend excercises or tell me when and how to apply them etc. ?
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5.samadhi
Sep 4, 2013, 1:08 PM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Usee0F_Ya98
this video is really helpful.
At your level I would be practicing technique on a less steep wall than a horizontal roof. I would find a 25-30 degree wall and practice drop knees, back steps, flag throughs, etc (all in the video watch it!).
I would also try to do some continuous climbing for as long as you comfortably can...say like 15-20 minutes of traversing without stopping (obviously this is going to require bigger holds and not too much overhang with places to stop and shake out while holding on the wall). While you're climbing really focus on your hips and the position of your feet relative to the wall...find what takes the most weight off your hands. This obviously only works if you're on somewhat of an overhang (vertical climbing won't really translate much to overhang climbing with these kind of skills).
When you are climbing the REALLY steep stuff like horizontal roof in your bouldering cave, you can begin to transfer some of the dropknee technology you learned from the less steep stuff...also there are toe hooks, heel hooks, heel toe cams, bicycles, etc. All need to be practiced on easier terrain (huge jugs) before you try harder holds while horizontal.
Hope this helped. Harmonious movement is a lifetime pursuit.
(This post was edited by 5.samadhi on Sep 4, 2013, 1:13 PM)
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CallumKX
Sep 4, 2013, 1:50 PM
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I've seen that before an it really is very informative. I sometimes watch it at the gym to try it out (: Also, if you dont mind, how do you climb/traverse really smoothly/gracefully? I see other climbers go at it really relaxed and calm and their technique and everything just looks like they're dancing up the wall, something like a poetry of movement and i just sit there in awe. I try to calm down and move slowly but when i get to the crux, its like im fueled with adrenaline because the holds get bad and i just plow my way up, just pushing and pushing till i finish the crux (obviously with barely any technique. just muscle up) and by then i'll be really pumped and i by then im too tired to consciously remind myself about good technique and just finish the route. On easy routes it isnt a problem because i can be 'flag left' 'rock over now' 'keep your hips in'. Only when im pushing my grade my footwork gets sloppy. Any help?
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ecade
Sep 4, 2013, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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How strong is your core?
The key to what you've written is in your core muscles and calm breathing.
For calm breathing climb easier routes and give your brain positive commands to breathe. Do not say things like, Don't hold your breath, instead say things like, breath in gently, exhale smoothly. Our brains work best under positive command IMHO.
Climb easy stuff focusing on your breathing and keep taking it progressively harder, soon you may find that you are not holding your breath at cruxes and blowing through them rather you're consciously and calmly unlocking the puzzle.
two cents for whatever its worth in a country that doesn't have pennies
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granite_grrl
Sep 4, 2013, 5:25 PM
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Having a strong core isn't going to hurt, but without decent technique a strong core will be useless. At the grades the OP is talking about it seems very unlikely that core strength is what's holding them back.
The OP has a good idea on some of the techniques to use. Other things to keep in mind is rolling your shoulders, usually this will give you the reach you need without requiring locking off.
Now, the OP needs to spend time on steep rock and learn then to apply these techniques and how to move intuativly. I did almost and overnight switch to climbing overhangs and it's a struggle. Once you feel good on gently overhanging you get on something a little steeper again and it feel like you need to learn technique all over again. For all this spend time on the rock and think about what you're doing (and why it may or may not be working).
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CallumKX
Sep 6, 2013, 2:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2013
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I just got back from the gym. I think my main problem is im not knowing how to place my weight on my feet as i do overhanging and roof problems. I would flail out everytime and instead of calm rhythmic movements, im rushing to grab the next hold because if i hesitate, i'd fall off. I find it really frustrating cus i keep blowing off and i think partly because im climbing it straight on and my arms are taking the weight instead of my feet. Should i just traverse more? Or should i just do all colours up with proper technique over and over again?
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